Review & DIY notes - Power rack & pinion steering from POL

[Arne]

I thought I'd write up a couple of reviews and list of 'gotcha' points on my truck's recent conversion to power rack & pinion steering using a kit from Performance Online (POL). This one is for the rack & pinion kit itself.



My truck is a '64 C10, appears to have been a V8 truck from new, now with a later 305 small block in place. I ordered this package:

https://www.performanceonline.com/19...nd-Pinion-Kit/

The rack itself is a lightly modified unit for a late '90s Dodge Dakota, with a custom mounting bracket. The bracket bolts to the truck frame using all existing holes, no drilling required. The fluid fittings on the rack have been converted to -6 AN (male). The kit itself is fairly complete as far as physically replacing the steering, and fits up to the frame nicely. But there are several issues that I worked through that would have been good to know up front.

When placing the order, you need to specify the column type you will use, as well as what spindles you have on the truck. Most of us will need the "Stock column or ¾DD" option, as that fits stock (obviously) or Ididit columns. Pretty straightforward choice there.

On the spindle choice, when you order you are asked to specify what spindles you have. The choices are listed as "Drum/OEM disc brake type" or "Disc brake 73-87 type". What they really need to know is which outer tie rod ends to ship you. Stock '60-66 half tons and '71-72 half ton discs use one tie rod, ¾ tons and '73-87 half tons use a different tie rod end.

I bought my truck with the disc conversion already done, and mis-identified my spindles as being the later 73-87 units. I was wrong, and so I got the wrong tie rod ends. I find it odd that all of the outfits that sell these conversions ask the same question, almost word for word, but none of them give you any clue on how to tell which you have if you aren't sure. The answer turns out to be quite simple, the later 73-87 tie rod ends have 9/16" threads on the swivel stud and use a ⅞" hex nut. The early style is much smaller, 7/16" threads and 11/16" hex nut. If this difference had been noted in the product description when I ordered I would not have ordered/received the wrong parts.

Side note for future replacement - the early style tie rod ends used with this rack conversion are part number ES415R, which appears to be the normal part for 71-72 C10. The later spindles use ES409R instead. If you later change spindles, all you need to change on the steering is just these tie rod ends.

Next, I found that the rack won't bolt up if you have a factory 3-groove crank pulley. This is definitely true for long water pump applications, and probably short pumps as well. The factory 3-groove pulley for long pumps (GM #3972180) has 2 inner grooves at 6¾" diameter, and the outer groove is bigger, at 7¾". That bigger outer groove hits the rack tube. If you need a 3-groove pulley, you'll need an aftermarket pulley with all 3 grooves at the smaller 6¾" or less. (Factory 2-groove pulleys are fine, as they don't have the bigger outer groove.)

Probably the most important issue is that the lower U-joint on the new steering shaft won't clear typical small block engine-mounted steering pumps. This is a big deal. Both I and one other forum member here ran into this in the past few months, but POL claims they've never heard of this. (Pictures here courtesy 88Stanger.)







There appear to be 2 different ways to go to get around this. One is that (according to 88Stanger) the later Saginaw Type II pump with remote reservoir looks like it will clear in the normal location. The other choice (which I did) is to convert to an electric pump. (Details on the electric pump install are here.)

In any case, plan your steering pump choice and location carefully.

The instruction sheet from POL appears to be a copy-paste of the '67-72 sheet, and the required '60-66 steering column mods are not shown or discussed at all. On these trucks with a stock column, you need to cut the shaft off about 1.5" below the lower column bushing, and then grind 2 opposing flats to convert the stock ¾" round shaft to a ¾DD. This task was not as hard as it sounds, but is required.

The kit ships with 2 u-joints and an 18" ¾DD shaft. For my truck, that wasn't sufficient. The u-joint angles are too acute that way, and the u-joints bind up just a touch when you turn the wheel. Perhaps some trucks might be OK with this setup, but I doubt it. I'd plan on adding a shaft support bearing and third u-joint for best steering feel and durability.

Once you work through all of this, it's really a pretty good package. The steering is much easier (even with big tires), and feels nice and precise. Like others have reported with other rack & pinion conversions, there seems to be a small increase in turning circle, but not unreasonably so. It just turns as if it were a longer wheelbase truck.

And while this seems like quite a laundry list of issues, in reality it wasn't too bad considering the rather radical changes to the steering of the truck. Especially if I had known in advance about the pump clearance issue.