10-30-2004, 10:09 PM | #1 |
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Drag links
Need to replace my drag links I think I am going to replace both links and the sleeve.
Was looking for some instructions but I could find nothing in the chilton. If an one has a write up or some instructions that would be a big help. Also do you need to get the front end aligned afterwards? Thanks
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
10-31-2004, 12:50 AM | #2 |
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10-31-2004, 01:44 AM | #3 |
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Thanks but did not see anything about draglinks as that is a write up for 2 wheel drive.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO Last edited by 76bonanza; 10-31-2004 at 01:46 AM. |
10-31-2004, 11:33 AM | #4 |
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Drag Links
76Bonanza;
Unless the sleeve is damaged, there is not need to replace it. I replaced the drag link and the tie rods on my 78 K10 and it was easy. Take everything apart with out separating them and what I did was mark the existing length on the garage floor with a piece of chalk. This allowed me to get the basic dimensions close. Make sure that you have the wheels straight when begin to take everything apart. On the sleeve, make sure you have the clamps between the nubs on the sleeve and that the end joints are equally screwed end. I'll try to scan the information out my service manuals and PM it to you. You will need to have the front end aligned when you are done. Hope this helps. Doug |
10-31-2004, 01:19 PM | #5 |
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Thanks I was only replacing them because the PO said they needed it but how do you know if they need replacing at all seems to drive fine.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
10-31-2004, 01:59 PM | #6 |
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I just inspected it closer the front link looks fine. The rear link looks like the grease boot is no good grease oozing out but other than that looks tight rotates some but looks like it is supposed to do that. What to they do when they go bad? Just my daily driver no wheeling or anything.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
10-31-2004, 10:42 PM | #7 |
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76bonanza
At the very least you should pull it apart, inspect the ends, and replace the grease caps. Mine was the same way and when I took it apart, the forward joint flopped around like a wet noodle. Here is what it cost me in June of this year: Drag Link end 1 = $29.77 (Car Quest) Drag Link end 2 = $36.99 (O’Reilly) Long tie rod end = $27.06 (Car Quest) Short tie rod end = 67.67 (Car Quest) I was replacing my steering gear at the time and decided to fix the whole mess. My truck is a daily driver and everything had at least 100,000 miles on it, but could have been as high as 250,000. If it were mine, I would check everything and replace it all at once, but I don’t like having to do a job twice. Doug PS I grew up in Rolla, just down the road aways. |
11-02-2004, 12:17 AM | #8 |
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The tie rod ends were replaced about 20,000 miles ago just the drag links left.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
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