The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > General Truck Forums > Suspension

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-10-2004, 08:02 PM   #1
frogsmakr
Registered User
 
frogsmakr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Sherwood AR
Posts: 553
rear air bags?

I am wanting to bag the back of my '68. What size bags are y'all using? What did ya'll do for brackets? Its already notched and has 6'' ece drop springs
frogsmakr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2004, 08:32 PM   #2
GreyHoundSteve
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DFW TX
Posts: 769
Sorry, not trying to hijack your thread but i was wondering the same thing. Will all bags drop the same amount? Also, how much can i drop the rear without having to notch my frame?

Thanks

I like you avatar frogs.
GreyHoundSteve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2004, 10:53 PM   #3
Shane
Account Suspended
 
Shane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: over yonder
Posts: 14,270
no brackets are needed ... simply drill 3 holes in the frame where the bag bolts and the air line pass thru and bolt the bottom to the trailing arm.

I am using 2400 # bags on the rear.

Hope this helps ya ... the rear is very, very easy to do.
Shane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2004, 10:56 PM   #4
ChevyCruizer
17's too small
 
ChevyCruizer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 335
2400 lb

it mounts in the stock location
Attached Images
 
__________________
68 C10 SWB SS 5 lug power disc brake conversion 2.5 inch drop spindles van tilt column Air Ride Technologies Cool Ride air bag kits Performance Online tubular upper control arms and shock relocator kits ECE super track panhard bar 1 piece side windows
ChevyCruizer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2004, 10:59 PM   #5
Shev
Head Peon
 
Shev's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Imlay City MI
Posts: 295
AirRide also has a bag (9100) that takes one bolt in the top and one bolt in the bottom and the port is on the side of the top plate...they designed it to be a direct replacement for the coil. It's a 2000 lb. sleeve bag....
__________________
'72 Suburban, factory tilt, tach, front & rear AC, front & rear disc brakes, 383/700-R4
Shev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2004, 11:05 PM   #6
SCOTI
Registered User
 
SCOTI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,066
Quote:
frogsmakr I am wanting to bag the back of my '68. What size bags are y'all using? What did ya'll do for brackets? Its already notched and has 6'' ece drop springs
You can use the Firestone 224C (P/N 6873) bag which is the same bag these trucks utilize up front. It can be swapped directly for your existing coils but will require a bracket to facilitate attatchment to the frame or drilling 3 new holes to attatch them to the frame. Bolting them to the trailing arm is pretty easy & just requires a 3/8" bolt & appropriate washer.

The amount of drop will vary since it is directly affected by how much air psi you like to run. I run mine around town @ 30psi unloaded & the ride is very good. Once I add weight or tow the trailer, I crank the air psi up to level the truck (usually about 60psi) & it rides the same (actually it rides a little better because of the extra weight).

AirRide actually recommends a smaller rear airbag but I wanted to err on the safe side & use the larger bag.

I would estimate my drop to be @ least 7" but I also have 1.5" blocks so actual drop from the bags would realistically be 5-6" w/40psi of air. The top of my rearend actually rides about 1/2" - 3/4" inside my c-section to give you an idea of where it sits @ ride height. But, @ this level of drop, your rear end (@ the pumpkin) will hit the bottom of the bed floor.

Quote:
GreyHoundSteve Sorry, not trying to hijack your thread but i was wondering the same thing. Will all bags drop the same amount? Also, how much can i drop the rear without having to notch my frame?
Anything more than a 5" drop & your going to want a c-section because it will start bottoming out & drive you nutz!
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod
64SWB-Recycle
89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
99CCSWB Driver
All Fleetsides
@rattlecankustoms in IG

Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.

Last edited by SCOTI; 11-10-2004 at 11:07 PM.
SCOTI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2004, 08:48 AM   #7
frogsmakr
Registered User
 
frogsmakr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Sherwood AR
Posts: 553
Thanks guys......I guess I was overthinking it. 2400# bag, drill some holes.
Gotcha.
frogsmakr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2004, 10:19 AM   #8
GreyHoundSteve
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DFW TX
Posts: 769
Thanks Scoti, I gues i should go ahead and put in a c section then since i already have my cab and bed off the frame. Do i need anything besides the bracket and a tool to cut it out? How long would you stimate it takes to cut the section out of the frame? Are their any drawbacks to notching the frame or does it not effect the vehicle in any other way?
GreyHoundSteve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2004, 12:35 PM   #9
SCOTI
Registered User
 
SCOTI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,066
If the bed is already off the frame..... now's the time to do a c-section. It doesn't take long to actually cut the meatal when using a cut-off wheel or plasma. A sawz-all might take a little longer if the heat from the cut dulls the blade.

TIP: Mark the areas to be cut & drill holes @ every sharp angle. This prevents places for stress cracks to develop later. Center the c-section directly above the axle @ ride height before marking any holes or the section to be cut-out.
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod
64SWB-Recycle
89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
99CCSWB Driver
All Fleetsides
@rattlecankustoms in IG

Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
SCOTI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2004, 01:16 PM   #10
GreyHoundSteve
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DFW TX
Posts: 769
Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI
If the bed is already off the frame..... now's the time to do a c-section. It doesn't take long to actually cut the meatal when using a cut-off wheel or plasma. A sawz-all might take a little longer if the heat from the cut dulls the blade.

TIP: Mark the areas to be cut & drill holes @ every sharp angle. This prevents places for stress cracks to develop later. Center the c-section directly above the axle @ ride height before marking any holes or the section to be cut-out.
What if i dont know what ride height will be yet? I plan to drop the rear ALOT more than it is currently, will this effect the location of the rear axle and where i should put the C-notch? Lastly, who has the best price on c-notch's?
GreyHoundSteve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2004, 03:45 PM   #11
SCOTI
Registered User
 
SCOTI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,066
Quote:
Originally Posted by GreyHoundSteve
What if i dont know what ride height will be yet? I plan to drop the rear ALOT more than it is currently, will this effect the location of the rear axle and where i should put the C-notch? Lastly, who has the best price on c-notch's?
Then do what I did. Yank the rear springs & shocks. Lower the truck until the frame hits the rear end & mark the centerline. Align the centerline of your mark w/the C/L of the top of the c-notch. The instructions that came w/my kit actually directed me to position the c-notch based on factory punched holes in the frame. If I went by their directions, my c-notch would have been 3/4"-1" off center.
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod
64SWB-Recycle
89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
99CCSWB Driver
All Fleetsides
@rattlecankustoms in IG

Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
SCOTI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2004, 04:15 PM   #12
kxmotox247
Senior Member
 
kxmotox247's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Champaign, IL
Posts: 1,397
Good info here. Thanks! I wonder why their instructions were off???


Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI
Then do what I did. Yank the rear springs & shocks. Lower the truck until the frame hits the rear end & mark the centerline. Align the centerline of your mark w/the C/L of the top of the c-notch. The instructions that came w/my kit actually directed me to position the c-notch based on factory punched holes in the frame. If I went by their directions, my c-notch would have been 3/4"-1" off center.
kxmotox247 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2004, 04:46 PM   #13
GreyHoundSteve
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DFW TX
Posts: 769
Thanks so much for your help scoti. It sounds like waiting until i redo my suspension would be a more appropriate time to notch the frame then. I wish i had the money to do it all right now though.
GreyHoundSteve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2004, 07:04 PM   #14
SCOTI
Registered User
 
SCOTI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,066
Quote:
GreyHoundSteve Thanks so much for your help scoti. It sounds like waiting until i redo my suspension would be a more appropriate time to notch the frame then. I wish i had the money to do it all right now though.
IMO, if the bed is off . . .... now's the time. Then when you do the other stuff, your ahead of the game (although w/enough help, it easy to get a bed off).
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod
64SWB-Recycle
89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
99CCSWB Driver
All Fleetsides
@rattlecankustoms in IG

Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.

Last edited by SCOTI; 11-11-2004 at 07:07 PM.
SCOTI is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:47 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com