Fuel Cell Install Write-Up with Pics

[TIMSPEED]

First order of business was to get the bed off, so we could begin work.
Next, we measured the distance between the inside of the frame rails, which just happens to be 32”. Luckily, my friend had some scrap metal laying around. We used a 32” long piece of 1”x1” box tubing.
Next, we set the cell in, with the piece of box tubing. We decided to put the cell mounting straps on top of the rear crossmember, in order to get the cell to tuck in higher, and farther back. Putting this on, we noticed that we were going to have to make it drop a little lower in the front, in order to make it sit level. So, we got some 2”x.75” c-channel stuff, and we took the chop saw and cut the small pieces that we needed. We just made it so the c-channel would sit in the frame rails (Mostly because we didn’t have a piece long enough, haha)
So, after that, we tacked it on with the wirefeed, and went on to notching the rear bed support, to clear the sending unit. After we measured, we decided that we’d notch out a 5” wide portion, and go up 2” with it. After my friend got done cutting it with the Oxy-Acy torch, I took the grinder to it, and smoothed off the edges.
The next thing we had to do, was measure for the gas door. We decided that we’d cut it on the same plane as the rear bed support notch, except we were going to make it a 6”x6” square. (In my thinking, I thought that I could find a gas door off of a later model truck, and it would be more apt to be 6”x6”.)
After cutting the gas door, we had to remove the stock gas tank, and plumb/wire the new cell. This was fairly easy. Just undo the 8 bolts holding the stock tank to the frame rail (4 in front, 4 in back) and off comes the tank. We were going to pull out the stock metal tubing, but decided not to, because it was bolted to the frame rail along with the brake lines. So instead of unbolting it for nothing, we just decided to remove the rubber hoses that connected the stock tank to it.
Once the stock tank was out, and the lines/wires were removed, we ran the new 6AN braided line right along the inside of the frame rail, and up to the pump. Wiring the cell was fairly simple. We just had to run a new wire from the stock sending unit wire, to the cell, then we grounded the new cell sender to the rear crossmember.
So, now the only thing left to do, was set the bed back on. Now, the only hard part, is getting to the rear bed bolts, (Not the VERY rear ones, but the ones just in front of them) because of where the cell is at, it makes it nearly impossible to get to them with anything other than a SKINNY arm/hand and a boxed-end wrench. Luckily, my friends little brother has skinny arms and hands! haha

[Captkaos]

I have seen something like that before.....(except, Jeff has pics )
http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/chas...ellinstall.htm

[bigblock73]

Originally Posted by Captkaos

I have seen something like that before.....(except, Jeff has pics )
http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/chas...ellinstall.htm

Good job Tim.

[TIMSPEED]

Originally Posted by Captkaos

I have seen something like that before.....(except, Jeff has pics )
http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/chas...ellinstall.htm

I actually used Jeff's page to install mine. I saved it on my notebook, and took it over to my friends, to show him. The only difference is, I welded my brackets to the frame, and mine isn't as purdy.

[Captkaos]

Originally Posted by TIMSPEED

The only difference is, I welded my brackets to the frame, and mine isn't as purdy.

Nothing a little paint won't fix.

[slammed_82]

what wires did you hook up for the sending unit to work thanks looks good by the way hope mine looks as good when done with the install

[bigblock73]

Originally Posted by TIMSPEED

I actually used Jeff's page to install mine. I saved it on my notebook, and took it over to my friends, to show him. The only difference is, I welded my brackets to the frame, and mine isn't as purdy.

I thought about using steel and welding it, but I wanted to be able to remove it (easily) in case I ever decided to get rid of the cell...or go to a bigger one.

Glad I could help a little, I would like to see the pics before the bed went on.

[TIMSPEED]

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[TIMSPEED]

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[TIMSPEED]

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[TIMSPEED]

55

[bigblock73]

Tim, looks great! Two questions...

1. What is the square hole in the rear frame rail for?

2. Can you get me a pic of the hole in your bed floor at an agle....showing me the distance between the top of the bed floor and the cell itself?

Thanks.

[bigblock73]

OK, one more question...

3. Did you end up having to notch the bed floor support to clear the sending unit on top of the cell?

[TIMSPEED]

Originally Posted by bigblock73

Tim, looks great! Two questions...

1. What is the square hole in the rear frame rail for?

2. Can you get me a pic of the hole in your bed floor at an agle....showing me the distance between the top of the bed floor and the cell itself?

3. Did you end up having to notch the bed floor support to clear the sending unit on top of the cell?

1. That was there before. My dad put an OkieRig towbar setup, and apparently cut that through the rear crossmember, in order to route the support beam through it.

2. I don't quite understand What angle do you want? There's about 3" between the top of the cell and the bedfloor.

3. Yes, DEFINATELY. That's what that picture with the 5"x2" is for..that's the notch for the sending unit. 5"x2" is literally the SMALLEST notch possible to safely clear the sender.

[ocbaud]

damnit! i need MORE MONEY!!!

[TIMSPEED]

Originally Posted by ocbaud

damnit! i need MORE MONEY!!!

Now you want to cell your tihs huh? The cell was only $175, fittings/line were about $75. The benefits are priceless

[MylilBowTie]

If that is a 16 gallon, how do 30 gallon blazer tanks fit?

[TIMSPEED]

Originally Posted by MylilBowTie

If that is a 16 gallon, how do 30 gallon blazer tanks fit?

Haven't a clue...16 gallons is enough for me!

[MylilBowTie]

Most blazers I remember the tank looks pretty tucked even with a little lift in the rear. I could be wrong wouldnt be the last time lol

[BaggedC10]

Looks awesome, Tim! More incentive for me to purchase a new frame and start over w/ my truck.

[ocbaud]

Originally Posted by TIMSPEED

Now you want to cell your tihs huh? The cell was only $175, fittings/line were about $75. The benefits are priceless

exactly how much braided line did you get for $75??


i'll do this next summer.

fuel cell
cnotch frame
add lowering shackles

[bagged74]

maybe a dumb question, but why not turn it around and run the fuel line out the front instead of the rear? looks real good tho!

[Russell]

Originally Posted by MylilBowTie

If that is a 16 gallon, how do 30 gallon blazer tanks fit?

Fits nice with a longbed, don't even need to move the brake line bracket.

I'll be installing a second one on my other truck right away, but doing it with the stock brackets that are on the truck. I used the Blazer brackets the first time I installed one, but it sits a bit crooked. I'll post some pictures in a couple days after I finish.

[TIMSPEED]

Originally Posted by bagged74

maybe a dumb question, but why not turn it around and run the fuel line out the front instead of the rear? looks real good tho!

No question is dumb my friend. In fact, a friend of mine did this, because he didn't want people messing with the line..well..that's an easy way to starve a motor. One night, on a hard launch, on the bottle, it went lean, because all the fuel went AWAY from the pickup and caused the motor to hiccup, and BOOM!
Eric,
I got 15' for $50, then a few fittings to run it from the cell to the pump, for $25. 15' is PLENTY of line for our trucks, BTW.

[Paso76GMCstepper]

Looks Great