12-24-2004, 02:32 AM | #1 |
collector of vintage rust
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: southern ohio
Posts: 421
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how much will it drop
I would like to lower the rear of my 67 about 2 inches. It will never be a show truck,so i am considering cutting the coils. How much will it lower if 1 ring is removed?Should i use a cut off wheel as opposed to a torch?
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12-24-2004, 04:36 AM | #2 |
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Mine went about 1 1/2". I wouldn't go more than 1 coil as these are not progressive/variable rate springs. Any more will really effect the ride. Use a torch and cut the spring. Then heat the coil about 1/4 to 1/3 from the end of the cut and then quickly turn over and set it on the ground and push down so that the last coil will be flat on the top like it originally was. Do not quench, allow it to air cool slowly.
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'68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc |
12-24-2004, 08:45 AM | #3 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
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If you cut the rear coils, you need to do more than that. The rear coils are tapered on each end. You have to modify the mounting of the coil if you cut the pig tail off of the end of the coil.
For a 2 inch drop, lowering blocks are way easier.
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12-24-2004, 11:35 AM | #4 |
collector of vintage rust
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Location: southern ohio
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Thanks for the help guys!
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12-24-2004, 03:15 PM | #5 |
Got L.E.D.s
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I had a 68 that I heated the rear coils with a rosebud. Just blocked under the frame on perfectly flat level ground, left a gap between blocks and frame the amount you want to lower it. Heat don't heat the entire coil just slowly heat and transfer from side to side don't drop one side at a time alll the way. heat just upper coil wrap, and keep moving down untill desired drop is acceived. I drove my truck for a year or so after, no problems, and ride was not changed.
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12-24-2004, 04:53 PM | #6 |
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If you are only going 2 inches, why not use blocks? You will still have full springs and you still acheive the drop you are looking for.
Just a thought .... |
12-24-2004, 05:48 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
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12-24-2004, 07:43 PM | #8 |
Fabricate till you "puke"
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3rd the block deal....try to stick with 2 - 2 1/4" on the block , if you are running 15" wheels......that way, if by chance you blow a tire, you wont have suspension parts draggin on the pavement best of luck,crazyL
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69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears.... |
12-28-2004, 09:14 PM | #9 |
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Are these block's the same one you use on leaf spring's or these block's diffirent for control arm's need pic's please. I like this idea so that I dont have to cut or heat my coil's. Me and my friend were talking about this subject the other day. He also want's to lower his truck and keep his ride smooth. "jalopy tz"
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12-28-2004, 09:48 PM | #10 | |
Watch out for your cornhole !
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Location: Azle, Texas
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12-28-2004, 11:15 PM | #11 |
hart
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: hell nebraska
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strange when I asked that ? I got about thirtys NO DONT DO IT YOU COULD HURT YOURSELF. bs I was "complaining" about putting a carb kit in let alone $400 on spring right now.
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12-29-2004, 02:31 AM | #12 | |
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Quote:
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'68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc |
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