The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1973 - 1987 Chevrolet & GMC Squarebody Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-22-2005, 09:05 AM   #1
1986Silverado
What I drive
 
1986Silverado's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Star, MS
Posts: 418
Can this be repaired.....Question for Bodymen?

My question is can my bedside be repaired without a patch panel or new/used bed side? Can it be done by pulling? I cannot seem to find a bed side panel in good condition. Thanks
Attached Images
 
__________________
1986 Chevy Crew Cab Dually(Choo-Choo Conversion)
2006 Chevy Equinox
1986Silverado is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2005, 09:52 AM   #2
screwballl
Tonawanda 454
 
screwballl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Liquid Sunshine State
Posts: 2,754
of course it can be fixed... to get the large one out reach into the wheel well and pop the large one out. might need the rivet style or popweld to get closer to the body line out. that should be an easy fix
__________________
91 Chevy Suburban Tonawanda 454 R2500 - SOLD!!!
04 Dodge Durango 5.7L Hemi 2WD, 24K miles (as of July 2011)
In the past 30 years about 90% of Fords are still on the road, the other 10% made it home.
-------------------
screwballl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2005, 10:05 AM   #3
Eyegore
What Hump?
 
Eyegore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: New River AZ
Posts: 2,009
I have the same type of dent in mine at the exact same location, bought it that way. I believe you can also remove the tailight assembly and pop it out there also, or a rivet puller like screwvall suggested. But what's going on just above the fender trim - rust?
My son replaced the whole side panel on his, aftermarket panel, pretty flimsy, he wished he had replaced the bed. The after market panel cost $300 I believe and the dealer wanted $1200 for original.
__________________
Lil red 86 c-10
99 Sub
78 Camper Special w/ 454
Eyegore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2005, 01:24 PM   #4
jermasaurus
Registered User
 
jermasaurus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: New Lenox, IL
Posts: 442
Check this out, that is, if you ever considered going with fiberglass.
http://www.advantagefiberglass.net/
jermasaurus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2005, 03:16 PM   #5
1986Silverado
What I drive
 
1986Silverado's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Star, MS
Posts: 418
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eyegore
I have the same type of dent in mine at the exact same location, bought it that way. I believe you can also remove the tailight assembly and pop it out there also, or a rivet puller like screwvall suggested. But what's going on just above the fender trim - rust?
My son replaced the whole side panel on his, aftermarket panel, pretty flimsy, he wished he had replaced the bed. The after market panel cost $300 I believe and the dealer wanted $1200 for original.
Yeah it's rust but just surface rust. How can I access the back thru the wheel well? I will try the pulling the light out this weekend to see if I can get it that way.
__________________
1986 Chevy Crew Cab Dually(Choo-Choo Conversion)
2006 Chevy Equinox
1986Silverado is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2005, 03:31 PM   #6
1986Silverado
What I drive
 
1986Silverado's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Star, MS
Posts: 418
Quote:
Originally Posted by jermasaurus
Check this out, that is, if you ever considered going with fiberglass.
http://www.advantagefiberglass.net/
Good price, but I wonder if that is a bolt on bed side or just an outer skin? Also wonder how it would hold up!
__________________
1986 Chevy Crew Cab Dually(Choo-Choo Conversion)
2006 Chevy Equinox
1986Silverado is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2005, 04:53 PM   #7
Eyegore
What Hump?
 
Eyegore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: New River AZ
Posts: 2,009
If all else fails you can get a typical dent puller - sliding type, drill a few holes and pull it out while gently hammering down just above the body seem. The lower part of the dent should come out with just a little effort. Then you would only have to fill with bondo the holes or have them welded shut.
__________________
Lil red 86 c-10
99 Sub
78 Camper Special w/ 454
Eyegore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2005, 05:15 PM   #8
1986Silverado
What I drive
 
1986Silverado's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Star, MS
Posts: 418
Think I am going to buy one of those spot welders dent pullers to do it, that way I do not have to drill holes. What do you guys think of this kit on ebay?http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...544450018&rd=1
Also what do you guys think of the above fiberglass bed side?
__________________
1986 Chevy Crew Cab Dually(Choo-Choo Conversion)
2006 Chevy Equinox

Last edited by 1986Silverado; 04-22-2005 at 05:16 PM.
1986Silverado is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2005, 06:05 PM   #9
Eyegore
What Hump?
 
Eyegore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: New River AZ
Posts: 2,009
Personally I'm not a fan of fiberglass, not saying there's anything wrong w/ it but just my preference. And what if you want to use your truck later on to carry something, not saying that it wouldn't work, but I'm a metal kinda guy. On the spot welder puller you can check out harbor freight, I know, I know before everyone starts bagging on me, but if your just going to use it for that one spot you don't need to drop a lot of $$$$. You also may want to check an equipment rental, sometimes they have body working tools. Just a few ideas. But when you decide to pull it out take pictures of what your doing so we can watch.
__________________
Lil red 86 c-10
99 Sub
78 Camper Special w/ 454
Eyegore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2005, 08:01 PM   #10
Bill W
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Oregon
Posts: 229
I would bet a suction-cup type dent puller will pull out the large area to where it could not be detected. They are usually about $2.50 at any autoparts stores. Get it wet to help with suction then stick it on pull with a sudden motion. It will come out. That won't fix the top of the dent where the metal is creased but your idea of the stud welder to pull out the remainder will work great.

Bill
Bill W is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2005, 09:30 PM   #11
ureckme
ureckmefixit2@cox.net
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Mesa AZ. (Phoenix)
Posts: 1,284
I'm a body man the first thing I would try is my suction cup. I have one that you an A/C vacume pump up to it. Than use a come a long from cup to a pole and pull with a little pressure. than with a pry tool carefully pry on the back side thru the tail light opening. As it comes out tap down on the pressure ridge above the body line. Be carefull not to couse more damage than is all ready there. And dont pry it out to far. Matt
ureckme is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2005, 10:53 PM   #12
7T7
Regular guy
 
7T7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Round Rock TX
Posts: 518
That's a fairly easy area to get to from the bottom.
Just from your picture I see (as Matt just stated) the crease on the bodyline is causing most of the dent below.
Once you release the stress on that bodyline crease, the area below should be easy to bring back to shape.
If you have a Harbor Frieght in your town, pick up one of their stud guns. Last time I was at my local Harbor Frieght they were running about $100
They work just fine for an average hobbyist.
Also their hammer and Dolly sets are very good for the beginner. (Very complete kits)
But if you have a buddy that can hold a dolly up on that crease from the back side, you can just bump (hammer) that little crease right out.
Remember lots of little bumps work much better than a few good whacks.
I think that's a damn good learning dent there. Be brave! YOU CAN DO IT!
What's the worst that could happen?
__________________
'Frank'
77 Silverado
18 & 20 American CL205s
Edelbrock MPFI, 700r4, Baer Brakes
9" F@rd rear, Vintage air, Bags etc etc..

Last edited by 7T7; 04-22-2005 at 10:57 PM.
7T7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2005, 12:50 AM   #13
Russell
Professional Grade
 
Russell's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta
Posts: 7,915
Mine had a very similar dent. I just got under the truck reached up and pushed. The dent popped right out. Where the paint had broken off (went past the plastic point of the sheet metal) I had to do some slight hammering to get it straight. Then used a very thin layer of bondo to smooth things out and it looked good as new!
__________________
1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)
Russell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2005, 09:00 PM   #14
1986Silverado
What I drive
 
1986Silverado's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Star, MS
Posts: 418
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill W
I would bet a suction-cup type dent puller will pull out the large area to where it could not be detected. They are usually about $2.50 at any autoparts stores. Get it wet to help with suction then stick it on pull with a sudden motion. It will come out. That won't fix the top of the dent where the metal is creased but your idea of the stud welder to pull out the remainder will work great.

Bill
Have one....didn't work. Ureckme, wish I had your suction cup puller! Some one tell me how to access this from below there is a panel I thought. A picture of an access hole would be nice, if not I am going to pull the light tomorrow if time permits. Or should I work the crease out first? Thanks guys, very good info!
__________________
1986 Chevy Crew Cab Dually(Choo-Choo Conversion)
2006 Chevy Equinox
1986Silverado is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2005, 08:28 AM   #15
piecesparts
Parts and more parts
 
piecesparts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Lebo, Kansas (middle of nowhere
Posts: 6,821
Lay under the truck and reach up from the bottom, I will bet you can rub your hand over the spot that the dent is in. If you can reach it you can push it out. The next thought would be to make a small hole on the inside bed panel and then push it out from there. The idea of taking the teallight out may work, but the room is limited there. You may have to make some tools to push the metal out with. That is what the "Paintless" dent removal body guys use The sharp dent ot the break line on the bedside will be your worst enemy. That will take some work. I would take it to a body shop to have them spotweld pins on and then pull it out with a dent puller. Drilling the holes in the body for screws will allow for tearing of the metal and there is no need for that. The least amount of cutting and drilling that you do is better for the longivity of the work. You will not need fibreglass, if you take your time and work the dent out slowly. Fibreglass is a way to HIDE mistakes or make a big hole disappear. After you get the dent out to a small dent or close then look for a small amount of body filler (putty) to smooth the roughness out. I learned by doing this type of repai myself, long ago. Take your time and it will reward you with a good looking job and not a rough patch that you wish you had never started in the first place. GO to a junk yard and look at an old bedside and see what you have to deal with before you bang on your own.

Last edited by piecesparts; 04-25-2005 at 08:29 AM.
piecesparts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2005, 09:46 AM   #16
1986Silverado
What I drive
 
1986Silverado's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Star, MS
Posts: 418
Took the light out yesterday and the room is limited there. And the big part would not just push out. Also got under the truck and there is no way to access the outer panel from below. There is an inner panel and the bed floor is all the way to it. So the access some of you guys have had to the outside panel must have been on an older truck.
__________________
1986 Chevy Crew Cab Dually(Choo-Choo Conversion)
2006 Chevy Equinox

Last edited by 1986Silverado; 04-25-2005 at 09:47 AM.
1986Silverado is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2005, 09:47 AM   #17
the baron
Registered User
 
the baron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Liège , Belgium
Posts: 263
the best way to push out that dent is to dismantle the right rear light fixture , and you get full access to it...
__________________
1982 Suburban 2WD , 260ci Olds engine,TH400 , will get a 1979 front clip , might be ready in ... 2016
1985 Chevy Van ( 305/350 ) , "Kellogg" equipped , my actual D.D.
1960 Girl Friend , frame still good , body has some dents
the baron is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:57 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com