Help again please thanks for the help before

[Jabba]

Sweet awsome thankx all ok now i have another problem
first some info '70 350 origanal block bored .030 over
'72 350 Heads solid rockers .030 over flat top pistons & rings
Weiand Stealth Intake eldbrk ?750cfm? carb(not sure on the exact Details) Deatils) eldbrk Energizer Cam hydrolic lifters crome molly rods
flowtech headers junkyard dizz(no its not the prob)
rebuilt Th350
ok the crankshaft was first an orielly's reman got the bolts hand tight and it wouldnt turn Arnolds motor said they got a crank that would work perfect
the arnolds reman came with matched bearings in the box (.030over) it went in nice and pretty torqued em down and it spun nice the pistons went in with out any complications but the crank was hard to turn arnolds said it should be fine well its all put back together in the truck and it will not turn
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the starter works perfect(865C/A bat) i put a half in. dr. breaker bar on the Harmonic Bal. bolt and all i can do is tighten the bolt im afraid it will bust or strip if i go any tighter This truck has been my life blood for the last 15 years, im only 23, its in me, i cant live without it please someone give me the correct answer it saddens me greatly that ive done allllll this work and now .......... Jabba

[cdowns]

go to an auto parts store and ask for plasti-gauge read the instructions and check the clearense on your main and rod bearings// would be the first thing i'd check// you did check the rings for clearance b-4 insllation?? right

never use balancer bolt to turn engine over!!!!!!!

[68C15]

^^^^^^^^^^
I agree.

[truckdude239]

check the clearenses on the rods main bearings. also you should check the gap on the rings if the rings too tight itwill not move right.

[shelby987]

not the best course of action, but I had a friend working on a marine block, had the exact same problem, the plasti gage said he was on the tight end of the spec, but still within spec, all rings and additional clearances were good. He ended up pulling all the plugs out, and trying to turn the engine with just the starter, and it worked (zero compression to overcome), so he thought that the engine just needed a bit of 'break in' before it would fire up, he ended up pulling 3 of the plugs (it was a v6) and getting the engine warmed up with those, then he installed the other 3 (after shutting the engine off) and he hasn't had a problem since (still very few hours on the engine though)....if you go this route, I would recommend you stagger the 4 plugs you pull according to firing order.........it might work, but I would only try something like this if i were ABSOLUTELY POSITIVE that all of my other tolerances were correct, and after I had double checked everything else.....at the very least, pulling all the plugs, and turning the engine over with the starter will give you an idea of tight tolerances being the problem....if it still doesn't turn over.....pull it apart and start again!

incidently, he also went the balancer bolt way, and sheared it off inside the crank, but thats a story for a different thread!

[Jabba]

ok cool ill consider that thanks great advise

[Jabba]

ok so my dad decides to work on it while im asleep and he removes the pan plugs Hrmnc Bal. and starts loosening the rod caps says he has 7 nuts loose
and he still cant turn it over ???? im confused it was turning just fine before it was installed in the truck i set the rockers by turning the carnk around to TDC by hand (maybe alittle extra leverage for the last two cylinders)
am i dd dd dum dd dumb????or somthing?? gtg more info later jabba

[jhwkns]

Did you clean the ring lands? If there's any crud at all in there it'll make an engine tight. G/L

[cdowns]

ever think you adjusted the valves wrong and they're hittin the pistons??loosen the rockers and remove pushrods if engine will then turn over thats your problem//take the heads off put some playdough on the top of the pistons reinstall heads and check your piston to valve clearance

[Jabba]

all the parts were wiped down with diesel fuel the rods and caps looked clean and uniform note: the old crank was bad and had worn the rod berings down alot but none had spun also when i set the rockers the engine turned over well(never got stuck) tho it was tough to turn it still turned twice after all the rockers were tightened(at TDC{per cyl.} just after the push rod stoped turning + 1/4 turn just like i always have set them) it still turned over

[cdowns]

did you use assembly lube?? or measure anything??? or just take the parts out of the box and bolt em up??i'd suggest just to keep stripping it down to a bare block and start from square one check that your bearings are clearanced to the specs in the service manual and the rings are gapped to those specs as well//then checking piston to deck height install heads and check for piston to valve clearance//each step of the way checking the engine rotates freely// some pistons and even rings have a proper orintation for proper assy check with the manufactures instructions on that

another thing to check might be if a flywheel is installed that it's hitting the motor stand mounts preventing rotation

[68C15]

I just re-read this & a thought came to mind. if one of the rod caps is installed backwards it will bind up. they have a radius that matches the raduis of the crank. is this possible?

[qksilver]

Plus if I remember correctly if you don't put the thrust bearing in the proper main it will bind or check to see if there is enough clearance it will bind.I think that if the pistons went in fairly easy and came out fairly easy it would be more like something with the crank, rod or main bearings
Steve

[truckdude239]

hey Jabba did you ever get it fixed? just wondering