350 swap..... (header questions)

[Army_Dude]

I've almost decided to go ahead with the 350 swap. Aside from the possible temp switch issue, I've heard some of you discuss headers. For those of you who have done this, what brands did you go with? Certain brands will put too much heat on the starter right? I will probably be ordering from Summit unless someone has a better alternative. Not neccessarily Summit brand but from their inventory. This is a real help to me, Thanks in advance.

[ElGracho]

You'll get all kinds of opinions on headers, everyone has horror stories about collector gaskets and a favorite brand.

I have a set of Summit branded headers on my 84. I paid like $60 for them in 96. They are still doing just fine and that included 5 years of living on the east coast and I've been driving that truck daily on and off for that whole time. I'd say I've certainly gotten my money's worth. The same starter has been on that truck the whole time (~200k miles).

If I could choose, I would get ball flange collectors (no gaskets) but I haven't had too many problems with the headers and the regular 3 bolt flanges either.

I've also bought a couple sets of the Dynomax ceramic coated headers from Summit in the last couple years for other projects. I really like them too.

[Army_Dude]

So the summit brand with ball flange collectors instead of gaskets, huh? I've also heard good things about Dynomax, and Gibson too. I was just curious cause it always seems to be brought up when people discuss swapping. Thanks

[MylilBowTie]

Dont forget hooker headers. Yes the ball and flange is the way to go.

[79BIG10]

I got Heddman for my truck but it was them, Hookers or Thorleys only to fit my angle plug heads. Heddman are nice but not great. The flange is not as thick as others at the exhaust port.

What is the ball and flange setup?

[MylilBowTie]

I replaces the collector flange and seals alot better, no worries about warping.



You will also have to pay attention to your fuel lines in the frame. You will need to reroute them away from the header tube.

[79BIG10]

I like those. How much they run?

[MylilBowTie]

46.00-64.00 depends if they dont have your size you can probably call flowmaster and get it.

Id goto summit and type in ball flange collector for search and it should be there. I'm not sure the size you need. I wouldn't mind getting a set but like the exhaust pipe they will need to be welded onto the headers and into the exhaust system.

[Army_Dude]

so the ball flange setup eliminates the gasket?

With everyone putting names out there, who was having the trouble with starter and headers? What brand name was it at least and I'll stay away from them.

[MylilBowTie]

yes it seals the header to the rest of the exhaust without a gasket. But it has to be welded into the system. The header collector flange on the header needs to be cut off and part of the flange ball welded up to the header. Then the other part of the flange ball setup gets welded to the exhaust pipe system. Its a much better design to seal that area. Most Fox body mustangs have that setup factory as well as most newer cars.

[Army_Dude]

OHHHHHHH, I get it, I'm a lil slow. It connects on the other end. You still use regular gaskets on the block. Right? Thanks, learn something new everyday

[MylilBowTie]

Yes the header flange (top side) where it bolts to the cylinder head will take normal gaskets. I haven't had any trouble out of that area on my headers I have a set of competition hooker headers. I knew about the collector flanges and even being carefully managed to warp them a little bit from tightening them up trying to them to seal.

[piecesparts]

When you mount your headers, get some regular old Teflon tape and put it on the header bolts, that hold the headers to the block. This little thing will keep the header bolts from backing out (as many do) and when you remove the bolts later, the threads are clean and ready for the next bolt insertion. I have been doing this for years and it really works. There are many products on the market for header bolts working loose, but this is a sure fire deal. The last set of headers that I put in this way was four years ago and they are still in smooth and tight. The tape does not burn and it lasts. I am runnig the old Cyclone ceramic headers on my show truck and they are standing up real well, they have the three bolt flanges. I use Fel-pro gaskets for my headers and collectors with a coating of "Copper Coat" sealer on them. The gaskets stand up rather well and I have very few leakage problems on the collectors. I have had zero leaks on the heads, in the last few years.

[Army_Dude]

Teflon tape, huh? Good tip, Thanks. That should be useful for alot of different applications.

[79BIG10]

On headers I used anti-sieze with aluminum heads and Stage 8 locking header bolts. They keep from backing out like header bolts are prone to. I'm going to have to order some of those ball and flange sets. On the truck I've got gaskets giving me issues.

[Army_Dude]

Quick question, would the tape interfere with any torque specs you are trying to achieve? I wouldn't imagine it would but was just wondering.

[79BIG10]

Not really. I've always done mine just tight. Don't want to overtighten and break them. Plus it's not as critical like a head bolt or intake etc.

[piecesparts]

The teflon tape will act as an antiseize and the stage eights are agood item but sometimes the budget is not there for that. The torque specs on my headers is done with a standard 3/8 drive ratchet and a good calibrated elbow. Never, and I repeat never, had a problem there. I will use a torque wrench where it is needed and valuable. You definitely want to put new gaskets on and then after the motor is hot go around the bolts and tighten them for a final set of the tape/gaskets. I found the teflon tape suggestion in a Chevy High Performance magazine article about an engine rebuild and just thought I would give it a try.

[Army_Dude]

Looking at different options and I noticed the Summit performance headers while priced under $100 say in the description they are for racing or off-road use only. Does this matter? I'm thinking of ordering these and just thought I'd ask.

[MylilBowTie]

They might be considered off road because they probably don't have AIR tubes for the pollution pump to be emissions legal. You can still pass the emissions part of the test but not the visual unless the tech doesn't know much.

[hotrodhomi]

So you don't need to keep your smog stuff? Lucky! I went with edelbrocks CARB legal headers on mine.

[MylilBowTie]

I was able to pass without a lot of my emission stuff. I don't think there was one piece of emissions (no egr air pump or anything) installed besides catalytic convertors (two) for my dual exhaust. I did fail a few times because the catco convertors stopped working. I replaced them with new ones and it came back with really really low numbers.

[benoit454]

I've ran the same dynomax black jack style full length headers on 2 trucks, never had a problem. I had them on a 76 c10 with a 350 and now on the 86 k10 with a 305. No problems, not very tight to the starter, I can take the header off or put it on as I did with start and wires in place, I can get my hand between the starter and header, and it's not anywhere close to fuel lines either. I had the bolted to the pipes on the old 76 once with no gaskets and it didn't leak a bit, they only leak on the 86 at the collector because of a incorrect bend in the pipe behind the header collector, and because I had that piece and another made to connect the collector to the exhuast, bends up then flat on the pass. side, and the driver's is just a reducer but clamped in place, and leaks where the clamps are. If the exhuast was welded up and correctly bent there would be no leaks. Also for collectors or on the block there are many types of gaskets now to help stop being burnt or blown out, or leaking, like copper, dead soft aluminum, fiber type, paper covered aluminum, all sorts.