Project Vitamin C-10

[kizer]

Horizontal as well. Keeps the wires up nice and tight otherwise your going to have to have a big fat wiring loom to the left of your Fuse Box.

As for the unspoken rule I agree what the heck is up with that? Of course I worked on a Honda once and it had a split fuse box half behind each door and it really confused the heck out of me.

[SCOTI]

I also like the horizontal but . . ..... along those 'un-spoken-rules' mentioned, I think future service might be easier if they were coming out the side & then routed 90° up to keep them out of the way. This would allow some extra slack should the need for repairs sneek up on you (not that anything you install would fail).

[Alan's Classic]

Thanks for the inputs.

Well GM came thru like they said. The ubolts came in and they actually gave me an extra. I had to go to the hardware store for lock nuts. GM doesn't offer them.





This a very nice and safe spring compressor that I borrowed. I think he said it is an OTC brand. It is pretty pricey he says.



This is as far as i could get the left front upper A arm bushing screwed in while on jack stands. I hope it will go further in. I'm sure it is supposed to be like the rear one.

Please excuse the dust.





Left side done.

[tommys66]

I like the vertical mount. All the labels on the panel are for vertical mount, so if you were to see the panel I think mounted horizontal would look out of place.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by tommys66

I like the vertical mount. All the labels on the panel are for vertical mount, so if you were to see the panel I think mounted horizontal would look out of place.

That does make since, but I'd like to tuck it up higher so it's hidden. I'm so confused.

Both front springs and tierods are in still need to drill for the idler arm bracket. Wheel bearings are packed and installed (not pictured).



I used a roloc stripping wheel to clean the dust shields. It does good to clean everything but does leave minor scratch marks. It is not supposed to be used on a high speed grinder. It's not rated for high rpm's. Just throttle it down.

[jonzcustomshop]

so... does the fuse block have to be under the dash?
If you are going with all new wires and system, maybe a different more accessible spot would be better.
ideas:
on the inner fenderwell with a waterproof cover.

in, or access through the glove box.

in a floor console (if you have one).

on the outside of the firewall w/ waterproof cover.

on the outside of the driver fender right under the c/10 emblem ....just kidding with that one

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

so... does the fuse block have to be under the dash?
If you are going with all new wires and system, maybe a different more accessible spot would be better.
ideas:
on the inner fenderwell with a waterproof cover.

in, or access through the glove box.

in a floor console (if you have one).

on the outside of the firewall w/ waterproof cover.

on the outside of the driver fender right under the c/10 emblem ....just kidding with that one

You gave me an idea. What about inside the frame rail like under the driver. The brake and fuel lines run along the passenger side. Now i"ve got something else to dwell on. Thanks for the inspiration.

[jonzcustomshop]

my sisters car reminded me.. she has a 2000-1? dodge neon, and the fuse box is crammed under the hood right next to the battery in a waterproof box. Took a while for an old timey car guy like me to find it there . right in plain sight btw!

framerail, it would be out of view, and a clean install, depending on how low you are , might be hard to get to to change one on the fly.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

my sisters car reminded me.. she has a 2000-1? dodge neon, and the fuse box is crammed under the hood right next to the battery in a waterproof box. Took a while for an old timey car guy like me to find it there . right in plain sight btw!

framerail, it would be out of view, and a clean install, depending on how low you are , might be hard to get to to change one on the fly.

I don't think the framerail is a possible choice on even a mildly lowered vehicle. To much possibility for the box to become submerged or become saturated w/moisture (we all know how effective water tight seals can be @ times).

[kizer]

Water and electricity don't play well together.

For me if its not where it normally goes it would be in the engine bay on the other side of that wall or under the seat somewhere.

Either way its gotta be up high enough so water doesn't get anywhere near it. One puddle could really screw up your day.

[Alan's Classic]

Under the dash it is for the fuse panel.

Rolling frame

Here's a tag I got off of ebay that I will run on the truck



I took the girls Christmas shopping and saw this rolling down the road today.

[Old School Kid]

looks awesome Alan, I have one of those 65 GA tags on my truck.... Got asked by a Marietta police officer in a parking lot for my info, he didn't know you could do that.... Yikes... I took the advice of the dmv to carry the paper work and the real plate in the truck... After I showed him everything and educated him he was, lets say a little embarrased I should try no plate like the guy in the primer step!!

[kizer]

Congrats on getting it on all 4's again.

[Dinos63]

alan nice work,dig the two tone,solid work and clean as h-ll

[4dranch]

Alan and Old School,
explain how the old tags are used.

Alan,
Very clean, Thanks for sharing the pictures.

[jwart]

progress looks great. are you running stock gas tank? Possibly if access allows. look at mount in cab corner, inside truck behind seat so you can get at it to change fuse & still very easy to get at an unused & protected space. pics on your progress & quality of workmanship are very inspirational. Hope it does lead to your own business someday. I'd recommend ya. JW

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by kizer

Congrats on getting it on all 4's again.

Thanks man, it's an accomplishment.

Originally Posted by Dinos63

alan nice work,dig the two tone,solid work and clean as h-ll

Thanks, I think the color contrast turned out good.

Originally Posted by jwart

progress looks great. are you running stock gas tank? Possibly if access allows. look at mount in cab corner, inside truck behind seat so you can get at it to change fuse & still very easy to get at an unused & protected space. pics on your progress & quality of workmanship are very inspirational. Hope it does lead to your own business someday. I'd recommend ya. JW

Thanks for the inspirational comment. Once the holidays are over I should be getting an aluminum fuel cell to go between the rails. Locating the fuse panel behind the seat is another good idea. I think I will stay with the traditional location. I'm bound to change my mind before I actually mount it.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by 4dranch

Alan and Old School,
explain how the old tags are used.

Alan,
Very clean, Thanks for sharing the pictures.

In GA we can take a year specific GA tag to the DMV and they will register the tag to that vehicle. For some reason they give you new tag to keep inside the vehicle. I don't understand that. I have not experienced it yet. The best thing to do is ask your DMV to see what can be done. Good Luck and thanks for the compliment.

[jonzcustomshop]

I remember seeing a thread like this where the sway bar would not reach the frame on a guys truck, he was having all sorts of problems...
un fortunatly I don't emember what it was called.

will the mount position change with the wieght of the motor, caba nd sheet metal?

[TR65]

Hey Alan,

I just bought front and rear sways from Brothers that are ADDCO's as well. The front is ADDCO #117 (63-87 C10) and the bar bolts directly to the frame without the offset brackets?? I haven't mounted it yet but I am a bit concerned based on your trouble and the different design.

CPP has a technical article for mounting sway bars that doesn't say anything about removing rivets.
http://www.classicperform.com/tech_a...ar/SwayBar.htm

By the way. Brothers uses a Helwig number for their sway bars to trick you into thinking you were going to get a Helwig bar I suppose.

Your thread is very interesting and helpful as you have heard at least 100 times by now.

TR

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

I remember seeing a thread like this where the sway bar would not reach the frame on a guys truck, he was having all sorts of problems...
un fortunatly I don't emember what it was called.

will the mount position change with the wieght of the motor, caba nd sheet metal?

I wondered that as well.

Originally Posted by TR65

Hey Alan,

I just bought front and rear sways from Brothers that are ADDCO's as well. The front is ADDCO #117 (63-87 C10) and the bar bolts directly to the frame without the offset brackets?? I haven't mounted it yet but I am a bit concerned based on your trouble and the different design.

CPP has a technical article for mounting sway bars that doesn't say anything about removing rivets.
http://www.classicperform.com/tech_a...ar/SwayBar.htm

By the way. Brothers uses a Helwig number for their sway bars to trick you into thinking you were going to get a Helwig bar I suppose.

Your thread is very interesting and helpful as you have heard at least 100 times by now.

TR

TR- Thanks for the info. I wish they would have shipped these instructions with the sway bar instead of a copy of an article from a truckin magazine. The pics I took of the instructions is part of that article. When I called CPP last week about the hardware they said they get them from ADDCO. I did a google search of the number that you provided and it looks nothing like the one I have. My PN on mine is CP7423-BLACK. I emailed the tech center at CPP tonight. Of coarse CPP customer service never replied to my other email or sent me an email about the possible grade 5 hardware in the sway bar kit. When I called he said he would check into it and email me what he finds out. I really don't expect a response from tonights email, but they might surprize me. I used to be really happy with CPP's service, but here lately I will think twice before ordering again. The product (minus instructions) is not the issue it's service.

Thanks for the compliment. I'm glad this thread is helpful to some. If I can just help people not make the mistakes I make, I can see that being very helpful.

[c10addict]

Originally Posted by TR65

Hey Alan,

I just bought front and rear sways from Brothers that are ADDCO's as well. The front is ADDCO #117 (63-87 C10) and the bar bolts directly to the frame without the offset brackets?? I haven't mounted it yet but I am a bit concerned based on your trouble and the different design.

CPP has a technical article for mounting sway bars that doesn't say anything about removing rivets.
http://www.classicperform.com/tech_a...ar/SwayBar.htm

By the way. Brothers uses a Helwig number for their sway bars to trick you into thinking you were going to get a Helwig bar I suppose.

Your thread is very interesting and helpful as you have heard at least 100 times by now.

TR

I have the Addco Sway bar on my 64... It bolts directly to the frame with out the factory style brackets to lower the mounting point... It worked great... I don't know what you paid through brothers but I called Addco and bought directly from them. Mine was also custom bent to work with the dropmember and the ART control arms.. It was only $138.00

[1restorick]

Years ago when I installed a sway bar on my 63, I had to drill four holes. The sway bar brackets are between the rivets just like your photo. I had similar instructions and realized that the rivet location wasn't correct. Best of luck. I did recently convert to polyurethane bushings because the control arm bushing do take a beating in this application.

Rick

[TR65]

Hey Addict and Rick,

Thanks for the info. I feel better now about the bars. I plan to mount them up over Christmas and will post pics. (without highjacking Alan's thread). Brothers had them on sale a few weeks ago. $100 each, $138 delivered, imagine that.

TR

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by 1restorick

I had similar instructions and realized that the rivet location wasn't correct.
Rick

I wasn't that smart.

Originally Posted by c10addict

I have the Addco Sway bar on my 64... It bolts directly to the frame with out the factory style brackets to lower the mounting point... It worked great... I don't know what you paid through brothers but I called Addco and bought directly from them. Mine was also custom bent to work with the dropmember and the ART control arms.. It was only $138.00

I guess I didn't do enough research. Come to think of it I didn't do any.

Still no response from CPP.

Verticle it is. The fuse panel is mounted.



The dash is in for the last time. It's welded and my personal photogragher (sdailey) took some pix of yours truely.





For those of you that don't know this. When you have a sharp piece of metal that your working around just run a piece of tape along the edge. It will help some. I did this on the pinch weld.