PLEASE HELP!! Brake Hose Removal

[Zilverado]

Ok, so I'm thinking this has got to be simpler than it appears. I am trying to remove the rubber front brake hoses on my '86. The solid brake line threads into the hose inside the frame - - hard to get at.

Is there a way to get at this connection easier than what it appears. It's tough enough to get in there, let alone get a wrench on it and not get it rounded off. Any help???

[Ivan D.]

On the outboard side of the frame there's a C-clip that provides support for the hose when you start tightening that big sheetmetal nut on the inboard side of the frame - take a big flat screwdriver to the C-clip and hammer it out, this will free the hose so it can slide inside the frame and give you some better access to the brake line flare fitting.

[ocbaud]

i couldnt get mine off without rounding out the nuts i ended up having to replace the whole metal line that goes from the prop. valve when i upgraded to braided lines

[Eyegore]

Originally Posted by ocbaud

i couldnt get mine off without rounding out the nuts i ended up having to replace the whole metal line that goes from the prop. valve when i upgraded to braided lines

My son had the same problem as you with his k-10, and the same result.

P.S. I soke that with coke-cola, this stuff eats that rust right off.

[Aarons72s]

For the guys having problems rounding over the nuts are you using regular wrenches or flare nut wrenches? You should be using flare nut wrenches. But sometimes they dont work and start rounding the nut. When that happens use a small pair of vice grips, the ones about 4" long. And get them so tight they actually somewhat crush the nut. They wil be a pain to get off but will work I have had luck getting stuburn lines off that way. Good luck guys.

[Ivan D.]

Originally Posted by ocbaud

i couldnt get mine off without rounding out the nuts i ended up having to replace the whole metal line that goes from the prop. valve when i upgraded to braided lines

I had to do the same, but for different reason - hydroboost conversion and rusty old lines. Couldn't get the fittings off the prop valve either tho, so completely bypassed it and I'm now running separate front and rear circuits with a manual pressure regulator for the rears - empty truck wants half off, big heavy trailer demands near full pressure.

[Zilverado]

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I'll take another look this morning, and see if I can get these off without replacing the rigid lines. I called a local parts store this morning, and all they have are the straight runs I would have to bend myself. This is not an issue, it's just more work than I was counting on - - - so what else is new...

So if I do remove the lines at the prop valve, what's the best way to keep from draining/loosing all the brake fluid from the MC? Bending the new lines will take a little time, and I would hate to loose all the fluid up top and have to blead the MC.

[PhilaTruck]

Aaron's right on about the flare nut wrench.

When I replaced the rubber lines, I used a propane torch, on the driver side. Make sure you cut the rubber before, it'll pop.

Pass side, used lot's of liquid wrench, flare nut, cursing and patience. (Fuel lines prevented me from using the torch. I was told it'd be OK if I wrapped them in wet rags, but I didn't have the guts to do that on the street.)

[beaterC10]

Originally Posted by Zilverado

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I'll take another look this morning, and see if I can get these off without replacing the rigid lines. I called a local parts store this morning, and all they have are the straight runs I would have to bend myself. This is not an issue, it's just more work than I was counting on - - - so what else is new...

So if I do remove the lines at the prop valve, what's the best way to keep from draining/loosing all the brake fluid from the MC? Bending the new lines will take a little time, and I would hate to loose all the fluid up top and have to blead the MC.

You have to bleed the brakes whenever you break the system open. I would use something to catch the fluid and let it run out.

[Ivan D.]

keep the cap on the master cylinder and make sure it seals good - brake lines are small enough so air don't like to travel up them, so the fluid leaking out of the MC has to be displaced by air coming from somewhere else - having the cap on and sealing good prevents air being pulled in just from gravitational bleed, some fluid will leak out till the cap seal deforms enough, but that will be it.

[MylilBowTie]

I cut the outside brass part close to the frame like in the 1st pic. Then I used a punch to knock it threw the frame. Unscrewed the flat metal washer nut. Used a pair of vise-grips on the line nut. Used another pair on the remaining part and took them apart. My metal brake lines where pretty good. So I could move them around a little bit.

Hooking the new rubber hose up. I slid the metal washer nut on hard line side. Pushed the line on the outside of the frame threw the hole. Made it alot easier to start the hard line nut on the rubber hose. Start the hard line into the rubber hose. Leave it a little loose so you can get the hose bracket in place. After its tight start the flat metal nut. Now your ready to do it again on the other side.

[Slonaker]

Mine were a real pain. I used a flarenut crowfoot socket, and still rounded the lines off. I never got it apart on the first try.

I finally ended up replacing everything one time when I had the engine mostly disassembled. That gave me the room I needed to get in there and break everything apart with vicegrips. Between the two tries, I bought a couple of nice used hard lines and a couple of extra sheetmetal nuts to make sure I had what I needed to fix it when the time came.

It was a real pain.

Slonaker

[Zilverado]

So, thanks for all the help - got 'er done yesterday. Certainly alot more work than what I expected. Here's what worked for me...

Driver's side:
- removed rigid line (approx. 13") from prop valve and plugged outlet with plastic plug from new calliper - worked well
- removed reatainer clip from rubber brake hose on outboard side of frame
- cut rubber hose and passed it through to the inside of the frame
- now off the vehicle, I was able to place the hose in a bench vice and remove the sheet metal nut (easy) and the rigid brake line flare fitting (this was siezed pretty good
- dressed up the faces of the flare nut with a file and reinstalled new hose and caliper

Passenger's side:
- removed rigid line flare fitting at prop valve and plugged outlet with plastic plug
- removed rubber fuel lines from fuel pump to free up some space
- removed reatainer clip from rubber brake hose on outboard side of frame
- pushed rubber hose through to the inside of the frame to give me more working space
- I actually managed to get the flare nut off on this side without removing the rigid line altogether
- once the old rubber line was disconnected, removed the sheet metal nut and then reinstalled new hose and calliper

Once everything was installed, I bled the callipers, but since I was on my own doing this (with a vaccum pump) I was not happy with the way it went. The brakes are "OK" but I think there's still some air in the system. I'll re-do the bleeding when I have someone (wife) to help me with it.

So that was my Saturday. I still managed to get a few hours of yardwork done after, but this - along with the wheel bearing replacement - took a good chunk of the day.

Thanks again for all the help.

[PhilaTruck]

Way to go! Smart move on the driver side to put it on the bench.

Great post.

-Todd

[Zilverado]

Originally Posted by PhilaTruck

Way to go! Smart move on the driver side to put it on the bench.

Great post.

-Todd

Thanks Todd.

I just hope someone lse can benefit from my "experience".