Cutting frame for headers??? Is this a stupid idea

[jayharrell]

First i have to say its a buick 455 in a 69 cst/10 long bed. Not exactly a bolt up option.

Well.. got my used headers today, tried a test fit, and they hit the frame. I think i can cut the header pipe a little to make it bend around some, but it gets close to the starter.

Is it suicide to cut about a 2 inch half moon out of the frame right here between the shock and the spring??? Just on the bottom part of the C in of the frame. The top clears, but its way off on the bottom. I'm worried it might be a bad spot to compromise the strenght of the frame. Would hate to make a 3 inch drop my mistake.

Someone get me to my senses. 2 bolts broke off in the head and this thing isn't fitting right. This is a mixture for failer. I always do something dumb when i get frustrated.


ttt

The first pic is of the passanger side

[HoupPhotography]

Originally Posted by jayharrell

First i have to say its a buick 455 in a 69 cst/10 long bed. Not exactly a bolt up option.

Well.. got my used headers today, tried a test fit, and they hit the frame. I think i can cut the header pipe a little to make it bend around some, but it gets close to the starter.

Is it suicide to cut about a 2 inch half moon out of the frame right here between the shock and the spring??? Just on the bottom part of the C in of the frame. The top clears, but its way off on the bottom. I'm worried it might be a bad spot to compromise the strenght of the frame. Would hate to make a 3 inch drop my mistake.

Someone get me to my senses. 2 bolts broke off in the head and this thing isn't fitting right. This is a mixture for failer. I always do something dumb when i get frustrated.


ttt

The first pic is of the passanger side

I wouldn't cut the frame. How many tubes hit the frame, I'm asuming one? Get the same DOM tubing, cut the header, relocate it so it clears and re-weld the tube so it clears. You may be able to use the pieces of tubing that you cut off.

[Steelawork'n]

Yep, mod the header not the frame.

[jayharrell]

Maybe like this. i'm no photo shop expert. but paint works. That shouldn't take too much from the performance??!?

[rscam]

what about a different set of headers? Numerous makers out ther with different bends and designs. There may not be as many to choose from as a SBC. but I'm sure there are a few. I know Skylarks were smaller than say a Centurion. I think a Buick Apollo in the early 70's was a Nova body. I would do that before I cut either one. I would imagine You could sell Big block Buick headers fairly easy.

[jayharrell]

Yeah, selling them should be easy.. New ones run about 500, so finding used ones for under 300 is hard to find. The guy who had them before me had his 455 in a 71 c10, but with different motor mounts. He altered these to fit his 71, guess cutting mine is the best option. Hell 150 for these is about the most expensive thing i have on these chevy.

ttt for getting my steam vented right. I had the cutting wheel in my hand and though 'need to take some pictures and get some advise before i cut this frame'.

Thanks

[rscam]

It dosen't look like the verticle part of the frame you are cutting. If so it shouldn't hurt the structure although someone would disagree with that. If you have access to a welder and can weld put a piece of of plate steel around where you cut to bolster the cutout.

[rscam]

Also what about cutting the flange off and angling the 4 pipe about 3-5 degrees. That angle cut may translate to a few inches down near the frame. Unless it would turn them into your starter.

[jeffspower]

Ya know how the passenger side frame rail lip is "rolled up" just above where the oil filter is on your 455? I wouldn't see a problem with heating the frame & rollling it in the same manner where you need clearance, assuming you don't have to go too "deep" into the "C".

[MrBeast]

Looking at that header, you should be able to heat each end of that tube up with a rose bud torch and simply "push" it over a inch or two to make some clearence.

I am a welder/fabricator by trade, and I would NEVER EVER EVER cut a frame to clearance for a header.

[jayharrell]

The frame that curls up on the top actually helps alot. Doesn't seem to be a problem. The pic is laying down behind the front pasanger tire looking up at the shock.

I think i'm on board with you guys. It looks like i have enough room to redesign the #4 tube. Cut it, heat it, bend it, paint it to match.

heres one of the motor after i took it down, might beable to see where the oil filter is.

[odog]

DONT CUT THE FRAME. When I was younger I put a 460 in to old bronco. I had to notch the frame on the passenger side to get the header to clearance. I welded in a piece of reenforcing steel to try and make up for it, but it still cracked. I realize these are chevys and built better, but still cutting the frame is a bad idea IMO and experience.

[jayharrell]

Sorry about the bronco.

Cutting the frame looked like the easy road, moving the header is the best road.

ttt

[HoupPhotography]

Originally Posted by jayharrell

Maybe like this. i'm no photo shop expert. but paint works. That shouldn't take too much from the performance??!?

You know what might be another idea, take that header to a local muffler shop and see it they can cut that tube, bend it and weld it back on....

[Critter]

Originally Posted by jayharrell

Is it suicide to cut about a 2 inch half moon out of the frame right here between the shock and the spring???

Yep, unless you properly re-strengthen it.

Originally Posted by rscam

It dosen't look like the verticle part of the frame you are cutting. If so it shouldn't hurt the structure although someone would disagree with that. If you have access to a welder and can weld put a piece of of plate steel around where you cut to bolster the cutout.

I don't think it's that easy. Any compression or tension that is put on that part of the frame will concentrate around the area especially the welds and eventually the frame would buckle and or crack. Not to mention torsional stress (twisting). I love to think of worst-case scenarios!

Originally Posted by jayharrell

Cutting the frame looked like the easy road, moving the header is the best road.

Just get one of the hosts from any of the "PowerBlock" shows on Spike TV to fab you up a set of custom headers. They make it look so damn easy!

[IvelDesigns]

based on your pic, that motor seems to be sitting really low in the frame. could you get different motor mounts that raise it up some? not sure that would fix your header issue or not.

i agree with the others. don't cut the frame. cut the header and re-work it.

[Premium72]

yup you seem to have gotten your answer. nither will be seen so theres not really a cosmetic issue to worry about, so on to the next ..safety!. hack up them header boi!.. make that pig fit in there!!..

[jayharrell]

Diffent motor mounts would make the trany hit the floor. Its pretty close as it is.

Time to get the ol cutting wheel out and hack these things up. I'll get some pics of the surgery when i get some time today or tomorow.

Thanks for all the info. Note to self: never cut the frame.

[70rs/ss]

I have notched a few, as the 67-70 frame has a wider top rail than the 71-72's and it seems most SBC and BBC headers are for the 71-72 frame. In my experience it is the top rail so it is different than yours, but the header tube fix may be the best. If it is deep into the C then I'd avoid it.

[jayharrell]

Yeah, i would have to notch it almost fluch with the back of the frame. About a 2 inch square. Going to try to cut these headers to fit tonight, if the wife lets me play outside. LOL

[chevy72blu]

good luck - I had a set of SBC headers that I couldnt make fit because I have 73-87 front suspension; it hit the top of the control arm. I wasnt comfortable with modifying it myself so I had a local reputable exhaust shop do it. I think it was around 100 bucks, but the header came back great and solved my issue.

[frankdatank01]

455 Buick!!!

Mine's not running and hopefully get rebuilt this summer. In the midst of painless rewire.

I thought about headers too, but trying to stay low budget. With the buick 455, that doesn't seem easy. I was planning to sandblast the manifolds, cut any tabs, and paint it gunmetal grey.

I'd like headers, so I'll be watching closely.

Tank

[jayharrell]

frank, Happy to see another 455, what year is yours??? Mine a 75-76 out of an Electra, 225, duce and a quarter, named for its length, 22.5 foot long. I've got a line on some 72 heads for mine. 88cc chamber on the current heads, 69 on the 72s *if i remember right*. Keep in touch and send some pics, I'm running into all the problems of a budget build. PM me.

Well on to the headers. Got the good ol cuttin wheel out. This is one before and after the section. A prefab, test fit from the top, piecing it together, and a too much welding done to back up now.

I was able to use the piece i cut out to mangle up for the right fit. I had a 2 inch piece left over from the original. Might actually work.

Looks like i might have to flare out the top of the frame a 1/2 inch to give all that torque some room to twist the motor. But all in all thanks to all for pointing me in the right direction.

Damn welder ran out of wire right when i hit my groove. Have to finish up tomorrow after a trip to Harbor Freight.

[jayharrell]

Heres the top view, defiantly have to flare the frame just alittle.

I'll have to move that brake line some. I'm unsure if the heat will be a problem. I'm thinking about wrapping it in asbestos wrap. I like the look on choppers, plus it'll help my crappy welds hold up.

[IvelDesigns]

awesome man. glad you found a way to make it work.