Front end

[custom63]

I have a 80' front end that I am using to update my 63' I am planning on just using the arms and spindles, not the crossmember. My question is.....what is the best way to remove them from the crossmember. I have read up on the method of putting a jack under and backing the castle nuts to almost off then wacking it with the pickle fork and then allow the weight of the engine etc. to safely release the energy of the spring as you lower the jack. However, since mine is out of the truck already and I dont have the weight of the engine, what are my options?

Thanks for helping with a beat up subject.

[Spray-Bomb]

I have seen some people use all thread & something else, but I dont remember what all exactly is used

[custom63]

Thanks spray-bomb,

Anybody else have any safe ideas? I found a spring compressor at H.F. but I am pretty sure there is no way of getting it in between the arms to compress things.

Here is the HF link
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3980

Thanks for the help all

[Thorbecke Bros.]

i just pulled a set of lowers off last night. although a spring compressor is best, i didnt use one. with the truck lifted up in the front and the lower arms hanging down, i took off the u-bolts and the springs fell right out like they were not under very much load.

safety first though.

[Shane]

Chain the spring to the lower control arm to keep it from flying out and then proceed with the normal way of removing

[kizer]

Originally Posted by custom63

Thanks spray-bomb,

Anybody else have any safe ideas? I found a spring compressor at H.F. but I am pretty sure there is no way of getting it in between the arms to compress things.

Here is the HF link
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3980

Thanks for the help all

I used a pair of spring compressors from HarborFreight a while back. First coil worked great second one the nut striped on the compressor. However keep in mind I was using them on a Jeep with 3-inches of additional lift.



I've also used Rachet Straps one on each side to compress a coil before as well. Not the easiest, but when you break your spring compressor and its 2am you get creatively dangerous.

[scotts62]

I usually do the same way shane said, is put a chain around spring and frame so it doesn't pop out and kill you or knock your ol computer out of wack

[JayG]

I also use a chain.

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by custom63

I have a 80' front end that I am using to update my 63' I am planning on just using the arms and spindles, not the crossmember. My question is.....what is the best way to remove them from the crossmember. I have read up on the method of putting a jack under and backing the castle nuts to almost off then wacking it with the pickle fork and then allow the weight of the engine etc. to safely release the energy of the spring as you lower the jack. However, since mine is out of the truck already and I dont have the weight of the engine, what are my options?

Thanks for helping with a beat up subject.

My first though on this is, How are you going to mount the newer control arms on this truck? There are serious geometry issues. They need to be mounted in a rather precise relationship to each other. If you are not sure how to go about getting the springs out, the rest is going to be really complicated. You seem to be flirting with disaster here. It would probably be easier to adapt the entire crossmember, then all of that stays intact.

[custom63]

I was unaware of geometry issues of swapping out the control arms onto the older crossmember. From what I have read on other threads is that you can either do a complete crossmember change out with the aid of some shims or you can just bolt up the new arms to the older crossmember. The second of the two is more work I know but if I am going to have the donor front end in pieces in order to rebuild the bushings and change out the spindles and springs why not just keep the old crossmember in place.

[scotts62]

Can you post some pics of both of the frontend crossmembers your talking about?
It may be easier to swap the crossmembers then you can leave control arms and all attached to wheels and basically roll new one under and bolt it up.

[custom63]

Here is a pic of the donor front end. I dont have a pic of the 63' on my computer at the moment, i'll have to do that tomorrow. I do understand that just switching out the entire thing as one whole unit would be on the easier side of things. But I am planning on replacing the rubber control arm bushings, put in drop spindles and lowered springs and or bags. I thought since I am going to have all that apart anyways, why not just reassemble on the 63 crossmember and frame.

[custom63]

Can anyone else help me out on what I might be missing and or not knowing about this switch out? Why would there be issues with me just bolting up these newer arms to my frame/crossmember thats still in my 63'?

Thanks again for all your help.

[scotts62]

Have a pic of the 63's? yet, it may be the same way i did mine but have to see the pic of what you have to make sure.

[custom63]

Not one yet. Ive been busy with work but when I get back home i'll be sure to run out and take some pics. What in particular are you looking for on the 63' pic? I have not done the measurements but from what I have read is that the width of the 63's frame is a bit narrower than that of the later models. So in turn if I did do the entire swap out of the crossmember I would have to fab up some shims. But like I said I would rather just bolt up the arms and not switch the crossmember.

[scotts62]

The arms is what i was curiuos about because i switched the arms on mine when it had the stock crossmember (now if it was changed i dont know) in it and there wasnt a problem. Its just been a while since i have seen the old style thats all.

[custom63]

Oh okay,
well I am trying to plan on pulling the engine/tranny out of the 63 this week as well as pull the cab as long as my extra help and my access to my buddies hoist comes through. So that will give me plenty of room to work and get a better visual of things. Thanks for your help Scott.

Tom

[dave2953]

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

My first though on this is, How are you going to mount the newer control arms on this truck? There are serious geometry issues. They need to be mounted in a rather precise relationship to each other. If you are not sure how to go about getting the springs out, the rest is going to be really complicated. You seem to be flirting with disaster here. It would probably be easier to adapt the entire crossmember, then all of that stays intact.

Do the control arms of the 63-66 trucks bolt up differently than the 67-72 trucks? I did the swap on my 68 the way he's wanting to do it, but I guess my front end was the same as the donor (89 'burb) whereas the 63 is not??

[LONGHAIR]

I don't know for sure, my point was that you need to know. With generation changes over the years, I wouldn't think that this would be that simple. It may be close enough to bolt-up, but will it align? The 73-87s are different than the 67-72, so why would anyone assume that it was a simple swap?
It is possible I quess that GM used the same parts on the 67-72 after the switch from the torsion bar system from the earlier years.

[dave2953]

What I forgot to say was that you brought up a very good point that I wouldn't have thought of. Somehow I think his swap will not be as straightforward as mine was...hope it all works out though.

[custom63]

Before pickin up the donor front end I pulled most of my info from this thread

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=263983

[joe231]

yeah man, the arms will bolt up.
'63-87 pick ups have the same basic cross member. (blazers, and subs until '91)
that said...the whole cross member swap is pretty easy. support truck under frame behind the front suspension, unbolt the old cross member and steering, remove, roll new cross member into place, bolt it up, drill 2 holes, put the 2 remaining bolts in. you can even use the newer steering components, just need to drill 2 new holes for the idler arm and get a power steering conversion kit from classicparts.com for @ $60

[custom63]

Thanks for clearing things up for me Joe. Speaking of the power steering I do plan on switching things however I am going to be running a IL250. Any ideas on the bracket for that?

[scotts62]

See i knew that would come about i thought they would interchange.

As far as the bracket not so sure..
Worst case get everything ready to go figure out where it has to go and build some brackets.

[scotts62]

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

I don't know for sure, my point was that you need to know. With generation changes over the years, I wouldn't think that this would be that simple. It may be close enough to bolt-up, but will it align? The 73-87s are different than the 67-72, so why would anyone assume that it was a simple swap?
It is possible I quess that GM used the same parts on the 67-72 after the switch from the torsion bar system from the earlier years.

I put a complete crossmember from rotor to rotor out of a 74 into my 62 over a weekend and took it to be alighned that following monday, they didnt seem to have any problems with it at all. I just had to drill out a couple more holes to be able to bolt to frame. It went a lot better than i thought it would have i was preparing for the worst