1963 panhard bar help

[jame]

When I got my 63 I noticed the rear track (panhard) bar was bent. When I replaced the axle seals I found out I have a 1968 rear end. I thought this would not be a problem and ordered a new track bar for a 1965-66. It perfectly matched the bent one I already had. Well I should have done more research. Obviously there is an alignment problem with the frame mount compared to the ear mounted stud in the rear end. It appears a 63 rear end had a mount welded to the axle tube rather than the stud the 1968 has. What are the options to make this work out. Does some one make an offset bar or an adapter stud that is longer and straight. Thanks

[jame]

Surely some one has run into this problem before - I have a spare stud for the rear diff I guess I will cut the two and weld them together to create the correct angle. If some one has a easier solution please let me know. Thanks

[fastom]

Early Classic sells a "Super Track Bar kit" that will solve the problem. The bar mounts to the right side trailing arm. Check it out www.earlyclassic.com

[Lugnut64052]

Not quite sure what you mean by "offset bar." Just a different length maybe?

Here's my experience:
I made my '72 1/2-ton into a 3/4-ton. Switched from a 12-bolt to a Dana 60. The original Panhard bar was too short, so after much hunting around I found what I thought was a 3/4-ton bar. It turned out to be too long. It did have a beefier rod though, so I ended up cutting it off and re-welding the eye onto the end.

After looking at many pictures on the board, I've concluded that there are several different setups. There are a couple of different-looking attach points on the frame, as well as different stud locations on the various rear ends (Eatons [HO52, HO72], 12-bolts, Danas, wide and narrow versions of all of these, and probably some others), which means probably several different lengths of rods left the factory. I saw a picture the other day where the axle attach point was clear over on the right-hand side, almost over the trailing arm perch. The bar must've been five feet long.

There are aftermarket adjustable bars available. The guy who owns Manes Truck parts tells me he sells lots of them. Alternatively, it'd be one of the easier things to make on the truck. Just a solid rod with a couple of pieces of heavy wall tubing welded to the ends.

[jame]

It was not the length of the bar that was the problem. The issue was the angle. The 1963 frame mount is straight were the later trucks had the mount at an angle on the frame. The studs in the rear end for the 1965-66 trucks came out straight were the later trucks had an angle cast in the rear end to match the later frame brackets. Since I have a 68 rear end it had the angled stud and the 1963 frame had a straight mount. This caused the bar to be in a constant bind - enough to bend the bar. The fix I came up with is to cut the angled stud square with the truck , then cut another stud at the opposing angle and weld them together. This allowed the angled stud to come straight back. I would have bought the super track bar had I known of the problem to begin with but already had money in a new bar,bushings and stud. If any one else has a solution please post it I'm sure I'm not the only one to run it to this. Mine is working but I may change it later when money is more abundant. thanks

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by jame

It was not the length of the bar that was the problem. The issue was the angle. The 1963 frame mount is straight were the later trucks had the mount at an angle on the frame. The studs in the rear end for the 1965-66 trucks came out straight were the later trucks had an angle cast in the rear end to match the later frame brackets. Since I have a 68 rear end it had the angled stud and the 1963 frame had a straight mount. This caused the bar to be in a constant bind - enough to bend the bar. The fix I came up with is to cut the angled stud square with the truck , then cut another stud at the opposing angle and weld them together. This allowed the angled stud to come straight back. I would have bought the super track bar had I known of the problem to begin with but already had money in a new bar,bushings and stud. If any one else has a solution please post it I'm sure I'm not the only one to run it to this. Mine is working but I may change it later when money is more abundant. thanks

As you noted, the binding because of the mis-matched components might have been severe enough to slightly bend the bar. I would spend the money for one of ECE or CPP's long Panhard bar set-ups & sell the shorter adjustable bar you have to recoup the costs. But.... If money is tight, work w/what you've got.