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04-24-2009, 12:54 AM
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#1 |
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Commander Taco Bello
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Des Moines, Iowa
Posts: 2,232
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Triangulated 4-link
So this weekend i'll be mocking up my rear suspension in the '50. The one question i have is, what is the optimal degree each of the top bars should be at? My setup will have the bars close to each other on the cross member i'm building, and will then angle out toward the frame when they hit the axle.
I'm doing it this way because my bags mount to the lower bars, so i need the room, and i'm running a 10 bolt GM rear and the center section is cast. any other words of advice on a project like this? |
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04-24-2009, 07:54 AM
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#2 |
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*---------------*
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Central Missouri
Posts: 1,791
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Re: Triangulated 4-link
I ended up drawing mine out on cardboard 1:1. I think 30-45* is the angle to shoot for on the upper bars.
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2001 GMC SIERRA 1956 Chevy Panel Build Page with a Scott's Hotrods IFS 1953 Chevy trucks Project Dime Time 1968 Camaro 1968 Volksrod "NOBACK" Jared Last edited by GRIMSS; 04-24-2009 at 07:55 AM. |
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04-24-2009, 10:26 AM
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Washington
Posts: 848
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Re: Triangulated 4-link
have you thought about a 3-link it will give you more triangulation. Optimal angle is as close to 45* as posible but 30-45* will work.
Justin
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[PROJECT] FnLow69- 69 C-10 Full frame & layin' doors [PROJECT] Laidout53 - 53' Dodge Pickup, Full Kustom Build [PROJECT] "Hot Rod" 1931 Model A Bonneville style "Dream as if you'll live forever, Live as if you'll die today" ~ James Dean |
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04-24-2009, 10:40 AM
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#4 |
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Commander Taco Bello
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Des Moines, Iowa
Posts: 2,232
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Re: Triangulated 4-link
I did, but decided to go with the 4-link. I got everything from scotts hotrods, so now that i have the parts, i'm going to put them all to use
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04-24-2009, 03:22 PM
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#5 |
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Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Atascadero, CA
Posts: 1,152
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Re: Triangulated 4-link
The ideal setup would be to get both upper bars to be as close to 45deg as FNLow said but that doesn't always happen because somethings in the way or not enough room. If i remember right i completely redesigned my trianglated 4 link and the mounting points and i believe i was only able to get 41degs +or-. Also as you probably already know you want to set it up at ride height and the angle of the bars (vertically) will affect your roll center and anti-sqaut. Lets say your center of your front mount is 8" off the ground and the rear mounting point is 9" you will get more anti-squat but a higher RC and if its 7" you will have a lower RC but you will have a negative anti-squat. For a street truck most people install them level. That gives you a good all around performance. If you have a few minutes you should google 4 link calculator. There usually free. Its really interesting what 1/2" will affect your RC height and anti-squat %. Anyways hope I helped!
Josh
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(Project truck) 1970 C10 under complete transformation  My current build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=212871 Other project: C5 corvette swap into 70 c10 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post2413517 On Hold |
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04-27-2009, 12:46 PM
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#6 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Jose , Ca
Posts: 235
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Re: Triangulated 4-link
Not wanting to hijack the thread here but does the factory truck arm/panhard setup qualify as a 3 -link?
-Andy |
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04-27-2009, 02:52 PM
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#7 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Washington
Posts: 848
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Re: Triangulated 4-link
no, its a two link.
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[PROJECT] FnLow69- 69 C-10 Full frame & layin' doors [PROJECT] Laidout53 - 53' Dodge Pickup, Full Kustom Build [PROJECT] "Hot Rod" 1931 Model A Bonneville style "Dream as if you'll live forever, Live as if you'll die today" ~ James Dean |
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