Will this rear fit?

[hops]

Rear end is "out" of a 1970 3/4 Chevy parts truck. I am wanting to go 3/4 in my K5, but don't have time and money for the good stuff, and this is already here.
What rear is it, and will it bolt in? (other than the U-joint, wheels)
Pics, we all love them, don't we?

[BLUE THUNDER]

Everything should line up. You shouldn't have any probs.

[teamradrz1]

Looks like a dana 60 3/4 ton rear

[hops]

Is this rear end worth the effort? All I ever hear about is the 14 bolt.

[AJs72K5]

There's nothing wrong with a D60 rear. It's pretty comparable to a 14FF in strength. The 14FF is going to be more common, and parts are going to be cheaper.

[teamradrz1]

D60 is a very good rear IMO very strong but AJ maybe right about costs.

[hops]

Ok then. I'll pull her out and sell or scrap the frame. Thanks.

teamradrz1, did you have your K5 in Canby on the fourth? Went down with my old man talkin bout a red Blazer, but I missed it by like 15 minutes.

[Mike C]

There are two different spring perch spacings. 40" for 4x4 and Longhorns, 2 or 4 wheel drive and 42.5" for other 4x2. Also, two different perch widths The 40" usually have 2 1/2" springs while the 42.5" has 2 1/4" springs.

If it is a 40" spacing, has the gears you want and a limited slip, it is a bolt in and would be a super cheap way to upgrade the rear.

But like the other guys, the full-floater 14 would be my first choice, but I swapped a semi-floater in mine. It had 4.10 gears and the gov-bomb in good shape. I bought the whole 3/4 ton Suburban for $300 and in addition to the 8 lug axles it came with a Performer intake, Holley Q-jet replacement and an almost new set of 2 1/2" Magnaflow mufflers. THAT is the cheapest way to do it. I built a jig and reused the Suburban perches and my original shock mounts I cut off one of my broken 12 bolts.

[hops]

Originally Posted by Mike C

There are two different spring perch spacings. 40" for 4x4 and Longhorns, 2 or 4 wheel drive and 42.5" for other 4x2. Also, two different perch widths The 40" usually have 2 1/2" springs while the 42.5" has 2 1/4" springs.

If it is a 40" spacing, has the gears you want and a limited slip, it is a bolt in and would be a super cheap way to upgrade the rear.

But like the other guys, the full-floater 14 would be my first choice, but I swapped a semi-floater in mine. It had 4.10 gears and the gov-bomb in good shape. I bought the whole 3/4 ton Suburban for $300 and in addition to the 8 lug axles it came with a Performer intake, Holley Q-jet replacement and an almost new set of 2 1/2" Magnaflow mufflers. THAT is the cheapest way to do it. I built a jig and reused the Suburban perches and my original shock mounts I cut off one of my broken 12 bolts.

That right there blew my plans. Oh well, not like I've driven it in years anyway. Guess I should have crawled under years ago so the part truck didn't sit around so long. Thanks guys.

[OldCreek]

Make sure you measure the pad width and not just assume they're the wrong width for your application.

[hops]

I measured the perch width and spring width. Rear won't bolt into the blazer, and the springs are too wide to bolt into my truck.

Oh well. Now I just need to get it out of my parents yard.

[bouncytruck]

You can move the spring perches. There are a ton of board members down there that might be able to help you get it right if you don't know how or have the tools.