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02-22-2010, 05:00 PM | #11 |
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Brookfield,WI
Posts: 50
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Re: Inside windshield frame rust removal?
I think once it's epoxied inside I will close up the ends with sheet metal. I am a good welder and will definitly take my time with cooling between tacks. I've got a small Lincoln MIG and have had great success at 22lbs for the 75%/25 gas. My feed varies beteen 4.5 and 5.5 while I bounce the heat dial from 2 to 3. I shouldn't warp it at that rate, but I could burn through the epoxy on the inside and not even know, huh?? I'll go slow at the low heat setting and allow for maximium cooling. Thanks for the statement Dusty71. I'm trying to cover all possibilities before I do it. I called an acid dipper here in Milwaukee this morning. I delt with them 10-15yrs ago and they are still around. She gave me a rough estimate of $25 to $50 to do the windshield frame. It should take 7-10 days and they are not behind. Infact, if I would have gotten there before noon she had room in a tank today! I couldn't make it. I also asked about the seepage and she said that in the 6yrs that she has been there she has never had a complaint. I told her that I understand that it does happen, 'cuz when I had parts done there years ago I got some. We had a good laugh 'cuz she didn't know what kind of shizzzz was going on there 10yrs ago. I asked her if they drink beer there and got a hell ya for an answer. I explained that I work at Miller Brewing here in Milwaukee and get free beer and some might "fall out of my Tahoe when I drop of the frame."..... "We'll take care of ya!, she said. I then asked about any coatings afterwards. They don't offer any, but there is a body shop kiddycorner. I called them and they will be happy to do that little of a part in epoxy. Especially if I have no time frame 'cuz they will use it as a filler job to use up epoxy that would be left in the gun from another job. I will stop there first before dipping to discuss the possibility of reaching the inside. If they can't I will use the pump sprayer idea when I get it home and either way I will use the POR-1# over the expoy on the top rail only. That will give me a rock soild and mainly smooth surface for the removable top's gasket to seal tight. I'm not worried about it fadeing due to the sunlight. I'll let you know what happens in the next few weeks. Thanx for your help. Cable
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'66 C-10 Panel '72 Jimmy 4x4 Last edited by Dzlhead; 02-22-2010 at 05:23 PM. |
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