02-23-2010, 11:55 PM | #1 |
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dual tank question?
I have a couple questions about dual tanks. My truck is an 87 SB 2wd, Silverado with a 305 TBI and a 4spd auto trans.
I have dual tanks and only my passenger side tank works. If I switch the dash switch to the drivers side nothing happens. I want to get both tanks working. My question is what is the most common thing to check for when your dual tanks don't work? Is the dash switch a common part to fail? Or should I start with the selector valve? Or some other part? Thanks in advance |
02-24-2010, 12:05 AM | #2 |
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Re: dual tank question?
I'm sorry to say that it is usually the selector valve that goes bad.
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02-24-2010, 12:07 AM | #3 |
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Re: dual tank question?
I started at the selector valve. More than likely that part went out. I found my through ac delco. Mines took a 4 in 2 out with a single wire hook up. But that's just my opinion.
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02-24-2010, 12:26 AM | #4 |
Robert Olson Transport
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Re: dual tank question?
ill third it usually its the selector valve down below.. i got mine from auto zone but make sure you get the right one there are two different kinds
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02-24-2010, 12:58 AM | #5 |
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Re: dual tank question?
I had the same prob also check the fuel pump
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02-24-2010, 01:24 AM | #6 |
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Re: dual tank question?
Thanks everyone for the replies. I will start with the selector valve then. I was looking through LMC truck and they have the valve listed for $99.95, does that seem like a good price or high?
Thanks again. |
02-24-2010, 01:27 AM | #7 |
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Re: dual tank question?
thats high i got mine at a pick a part fro 20 bucks a new one i found at smith auto for 70
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02-24-2010, 01:48 AM | #8 | ||||
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Re: dual tank question?
Quote:
Quote:
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02-24-2010, 12:15 PM | #9 |
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Re: dual tank question?
I just checked Rock Auto, and they list an Airtex for $78.
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02-24-2010, 05:53 PM | #10 |
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Re: dual tank question?
Mine was the dash switch - thank god!!
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02-24-2010, 07:37 PM | #11 |
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Re: dual tank question?
Wish I could just replace the switch or the valve. The PO took the drivers side tank out and never put it back in.
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02-24-2010, 07:49 PM | #12 |
Broken Down
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Re: dual tank question?
Mine was the same thing!!! I could hit the switch and nothing would happen. But one day I got pissed and pushed harder than normal and felt a spring kind of pressure and I heard the switch and watched the fuel gauge change. I put a new switch in and it works normal. I was very lucky....
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02-24-2010, 09:27 PM | #13 |
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Re: dual tank question?
FLEET72
Thanks for the info! I noticed that AutoZone & O'rileys were "Fits all makes and models". Does anyone have any experience with those? Most one size fits all stuff I have ever used is never quite right, and would rather pay a little more for something that is specific for my application. How hard is it to change the valve out? Is it bolted to the frame? Sorry to ask so many questions, but I don't have a lot of experience with working on these style of truck. I have worked on a lot of Camaro's and 67-72 Chevy trucks but I'm kinda new too these. |
02-25-2010, 08:27 AM | #14 |
Don't Crush em Restore em
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Re: dual tank question?
I bought mine straight from the GM dealer, I took a picture of it under the truck so I knew how many lines and wires were involved and went to the dealer and gave the the year and they brought me out the part and it matched. I can't remember how much I paid, but I would say around $70 or $80.
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02-25-2010, 11:23 AM | #15 | |
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Re: dual tank question?
Quote:
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02-25-2010, 05:29 PM | #16 |
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Re: dual tank question?
Hey gg, do your self a favor and perform some troubleshooting instead of what we refer to as shotgun maintenance in the aviation industry it's not to hard to do just time consuming first start with getting some wiring prints of your trucks dual tank system then start at the selector sw. remove it and visually inspect it for any obvious defects and the wires too check for power groung and so on if it looks good get a multi meter test the sw separately check the sw contacts look at the wiring print to see what pole's should be made when the sw is in one position this will let you know weather the sw is good or bad if the sw feels funny when it's moved then replace it iv had one go bad it should move free and smoothly.
With the battery disconnected and the sw removed you can take 1 wire at a time in the cab and using a jumper wire ground each wire then go under the truck and remove the connector at the valve and with the multi meter set to ohms check for continuity some meters have an audible feature so as soon as you ground it you will hear a tone and know you have continuity if everything checks good then you know all the wiring is good. Theres checks you can do with the valve in place but it requires more tooling than its worth at this point you should know what the problen is going to be. Remember it's allways easier and cheaper to trouble shoot than to just keep throwing parts at a problem hoping you get lucky with the first part and fix the problem Good luck i hope you fix the problem. |
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