? about 71' 5 lug rear.

[LOW DOUGH]

Sorry, no pics.


I have a 71 2wd. It has a 69 rear in it right now, but my question is about the 71 rear that was in it.

I ran the rearend dry long ago for 20 miles. I didn't know. It started out fine and started making a roaring noise that only got louder. I thought it was my rear brakes. What a dummy. Anyway, I get to my apartment, stop to punch in the gate code and go in the gate at probably 5 mph and BOOM. The rear shot a tooth out through the dif cover. I am guessing it is a tooth, never did see what actually broke. So, I swapped out the rear and the 71 rear has been sitting ever since. Sorry, long story.... with NO PICS... I know, I know....


Anyway, I want to rebuild the 71 rear and have never done it before. I have seen it done a lot and have a good idea of what to do, but would like to know if anyone has any tips or links to some good reading about it, with PICs would be good.

Also, can anyone suggest a place to get a hole rebuild kit? (axle shaft bearings & seals, carrier bearings, ring & pinion, etc.) I really would like to put a limited slip in it when I do it, but if it is too much I will just go back with the open rear.


I really want to get my truck back to 5 lug all the way around.


Any help is greatly appreciated.


Thanks,
Drew

[Hart_Rod]

You need some special tools to set up rearends. Summit/Jegs have good prices on the rebuild kits.

[LOW DOUGH]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

You need some special tools to set up rearends. Summit/Jegs have good prices on the rebuild kits.

Thanks Rob. I thought I would need some special tools. Like what?

I imagine I will have to press bearing races in but get the old ones out first. I will need (can't think of the name) that dial indicator thing..... I guess maybe it's called a backlash indicator. Those probably arn't cheap.


I'm going to look at summit/jegs real quick and see what I can find for kits.

[68chevyfuelie]

You'll need a dial indicator with a magnetic base, to set the backlash. You SHOULD get an inch-pounds torque wrench to set the pinion preload, bearing pullers, foot pounds torque wrench for the bearing cap, it helps a lot to have a big-ass rubber-deadblow hammer, a long punch for the pinion races. and if the rebuild kit doesn't include it you'll need some type of paint or even white grease to check your tooth pattern. I'm assuming the trucks rear axle is a 12-bolt, run 8-12 inchpounds on the pinion preload and if I remember correctly on the backlash as well, around 80-100 ft lbs on the bearing caps. Use loctite on the carrier to ring gear bolts, they will probably be left hand thread. All bearings should go in after being covered in rear end oil. Rebuild kit should have a diagram for the tooth pattern, if not, set it closer to the toe, the smaller part of the ring-gear. And again, if the kit doesn't include it, make sure you use a new pinion crush sleeve, I know I have a GM one in the garage for a 12 bolt if you need the part number. Hope this helps.

[68chevyfuelie]

Sorry-forgot:

Bearing caps, like head bolts, should be torqued in 3 steps, say 20lbs, the 50, then your final torque. And BEFORE taking anything apart, mark which side bearing cap goes where, and keep shims togther for the correct sides. Same goes for pinion shims. Chances are pretty good that everything already there will get you in a pretty good ballpark. If you DO have to rip everything apart after crushing the sleeve, use a center punch to mark the nut in relation to the pinion stem, count the threads, WRITE that down, then disassemble.

[Shaky]

The only real magic is setting the pinion depth. It's important and takes special tools. The rest can be done by a good backyard mechanic who is patient and methodical.