swap 64 gauges to 66 what is needed?

[jsinor1956]

I am changing 64 gauges with idiot lights to 66 gauges, with what is needed? I have wiring for both clusters. The plugs look the same, Do you just plug em in and thats it? Or what other wiring mods and parts are needed.
Thanks
Jim

[DPowers]

Plug n Play

[daverod]

You have to change the oil sender and the temp sender. The oil sender needs a line that will screw into the back of the gage. Temp sender is the one wire type. I did it but I'm still in the process of finishing it up. I'm pretty sure you can still use the wires that go to the temp gage you just use one and make sure you hook the same one to the gage. Any auto place has the oil pressure sender. I used the copper type, seemed to work ok. Leaked alittle at first because I never tightened it up good enough.

[daverod]

Rays chevy restoration site has a write up how to do it.

[Vernski]

Originally Posted by daverod

Rays chevy restoration site has a write up how to do it.

Dave do you have a link to the write up thanks....Vernski

[Slow Build]

Quick question since we're on the subject of gauges. Other than the 5 screws on the front, what else needs to be done to get the gauges out? Found one at a junkyard and it wouldn't budge after removing the screws and I didn't want to stick my hands into the spiderwebs to feel around the back and didn't want to put my head on the gross carpet to be able to see the back.

[daverod]

I'm not sure how to do it just type it in on your search thing. It in the tech section.http://rmcavoy.freeshell.org/ Damn I'm good. Ok it was really easy. All this talk almost makes me want to finish mine. Maybe this weekend. The main reason I swapped was so I could put in a tech. Then I switched to a hei And I'm not sure how to hook it up.

[protrash64]

Originally Posted by Slow Build

Quick question since we're on the subject of gauges. Other than the 5 screws on the front, what else needs to be done to get the gauges out? Found one at a junkyard and it wouldn't budge after removing the screws and I didn't want to stick my hands into the spiderwebs to feel around the back and didn't want to put my head on the gross carpet to be able to see the back.

Also need to remove the speedo cable and the oil line going to the gauge. Probably some electric harness, too.

[Slow Build]

Originally Posted by protrash64

Also need to remove the speedo cable and the oil line going to the gauge. Probably some electric harness, too.

I figured that I could deal with that stuff once I pulled the gauges out of the dash a little, but with the screws out the gauges are still solidly held in the dash. I can't even pry them out a little bit with a screwdriver.

Sorry for the thread-jacking

.

[protrash64]

Originally Posted by Slow Build

I figured that I could deal with that stuff once I pulled the gauges out of the dash a little, but with the screws out the gauges are still solidly held in the dash. I can't even pry them out a little bit with a screwdriver.

Sorry for the thread-jacking

.

I wonder if it's rusted on??? I would think that it would have some give.

[daverod]

Next time take a BFH with you. I'm pretty sure just the screws hold it in. It comes out towards you.

[Slow Build]

I think part of my problem is the ignition switch. Not stock and I can't get it completely out (thread issues) but I can't really move the gauges enough for that to even be issue yet. Before the BFH comes out of my tool bag I'll have to resort to laying on the gross carpet and get a good look at the back.

Sorry for the interuption.

Now back to your previously scheduled thread.

[EVBuilder]

Slow build... there is a tach lead right on the side of distributor cap for that. It's even labeled "tach" if you can get in there to see it if not remove the cap and you will see it.

[EVBuilder]

Sorry wrong name it was daverod....