Can I re-build the front end

[COBALT]

Some pointers:

1. Get a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter for torquing. You'll need a 250 ft/lb wrench. A 1/2" drive torque wrench will work fine.

2. There's no avoiding getting the 3/4" drive sockets for the control arm bushings. You'll have to get two: one for the lowers and one for the uppers.

3. Yes, you have to grind off the rivets that hold the upper ball joint in place unless they've been replaced before. This is NOT hard at all. When you get the upper control arm out just put it in a vice, and grind off those heads. Use a punch to knock them out.

4. My Haynes manual has all the torque specs in them, but most replacement front-end parts worth their salt will have the torque specs on a sheet in the box they come in. Look for those. I know Moog does.

5. Used lower control arms can only take 2-3 ball joint presses before the opening gets too big and you either have to install a bushing, or get new lower control arms. Any front-end shop will do it in quick order.

6. Make sure you use brand new U-bolts for the center bars (with torque nuts) on the lower control arms that go through your cross member. Bolt stretch and wear will make these useless.

7. When putting the bushings in with the rubber seals and the center bars just bottom out one bushing on one side, turn the center bar as far to that bottomed-out bushing as possible, and then put on the other bushing until it bottoms out. Then center the bar. Don't try keeping the center bar centered while you try to turn in those bushings. It'll turn into a nightmare.