Soon to be tackling the front suspension. What to look for and replace?

[chevymotocross]

Finished dropping the rear of my truck 6'' via the Western Chassis flip kit. Sport Truck Direct FINALLY shipped out my front coils to go along with my 2.5'' lowering spindles. I also have a new complete RH upper control arm since the one of my truck has rot holes in it.

The other control arms are rusty, but solid. I plan on coating these with Zero Rust. I also plan on all new ball-joints. Tie rod ends seem fine. Will be re-packing the wheel bearings.

I remember back when I had the truck aligned, the alignment guy said the alignment shim studs are very rusty and he had a difficult time breaking them lose. I will inspect these and replace if necessary. The little u-bolts that hold the control arms will probably need to be replaced as well.

The control arm bushings I will inspect, check for any slop or binding. If so, I will replace these as well, if not, I'm going to just re-install.

Steering box was replaced 2 years ago.

Any other things I should check? Where can I buy the little parts like the small u-bolts and shim studs?

[N2TRUX]

Sounds like you have a good plan so far. since rust is a concern, check the frame area around your steering box. It is a potential area for cracking. It's most comon on 4wd trucks, but I have seen it on a few 2wd's as well.

[cdowns]

with dropped springs you might need longer studs for proper shimming to get alignment right

[blime81]

I am right in the middle of that very project. (OE ball joints are no match for a BFH and a couple jacks!).

I did all the things you mentioned but I went for the 73-87 tie rod ends and tie rod sleeve adapter that CPP makes.

While my tie rods seemed ok I would prefer to not have to tear down the front for another 40 years! You wouldn't need the sleeve and whatnot so you might as well just replace them, cheap insurance.

Also got new pads and rotors but I needed those.

[chevymotocross]

Originally Posted by cdowns

with dropped springs you might need longer studs for proper shimming to get alignment right

Anywhere to buy these longer studs? Or, can you just replace with longer grade 8 bolts? For example, when my alignment guy snapped a shim stud since it was so rusty, he knocked the stud out, and replaced with a proper sized grade 8 bolt. Has been working great ever since.

[54Caddy]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Sounds like you have a good plan so far. since rust is a concern, check the frame area around your steering box. It is a potential area for cracking. It's most comon on 4wd trucks, but I have seen it on a few 2wd's as well.

Check the frame good mine cracked and its a 2wd look for any spider cracks and drill them out on each end of them to prevent further cracking.

[chevymotocross]

See no cracks in the frame. Everything came off very easy. Much easier than when I flipped the rear!

The control arms have no slop or squeaks. They don't move completely easy in a full range of motion. They have just a certain amount of movement and then it gets tighter. I believe that's how it's suppose to be? What I'm trying to say is, they aren't completely lose, as if you can take the control arm and move them up and down in full range with no resistance.

The exposed part of the rubber control arm bushings do have dry rot cracks in them. As stated, there is no slop. I really want to just get the truck on the road as I only have about a month or so before I have to leave for 6 months for military. Do I really have to get new bushings? That would delay me another week to get them shipped, plus the labor involved. I'm sure new ones would be better, but I think the stock ones are still holding up fine.