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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 2,944
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new vs old Air Conditioning
Hello All, I am in the process of restoring my 68 currently it is in pieces with hopes of getting put back together. Anyway it has factory air and used to work I have tried to seal up the fittings but am sure they got stuff inside anyway. At this point am I better off to convert this to R134 and use my old compressor. What are the ideas for changing the compressor can I just change this and what to use. I do remember there is a valve toward the box that would sometimes stick, if I tapped it it would get cool again. I have seen some posts saying the new ones are more efficient. My plans for the sake of money was just to use what I have (possibly a compressor change) but didn’t know what all to change if converting to the new R134.
Thanks and just wanted to see what others had done. Dave ![]()
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Dave 1968 Custom Chevy with turbo charged 5.3 gen III 4l80e swap 1967-71 GMC 3/4 ton long step 4x4 (not sure what year exactly?) "A good friend will bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "that was frekin awesome". "If it doesn't fit force it...If it breaks then it needed to be replaced anyway!" |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kannapolis, NC
Posts: 552
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I personally like the old. Yes, 134 is cheap and easy to use, but in my truck it doesnt seem to blow as cold. You may have to have a dealers lisence to get the old freon? Depends on where you live i guess, but my vote goes to old style
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Des Moines WA. (Kent, area)
Posts: 668
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I second it.
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70 chev c10 swb fleet 72 grill, sb 400, 2/4 drop. 68 chev c10 swb fleet Early classic 4/6 drop with 4wheel disc brakes 9"rear 67-8 buckets tilt and A/C Classic GM Truck Club of Washington . |
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#4 |
14.1 @ 96MPH
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 2,811
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I third it, even if only to keep the market price for original stuff up whenever I get the cash to yank it all out and put in a Vintage Air system
![]() Seriously, though, I can't stand the stock stuff...it's one big headache. As soon as I can I'm ditching it.
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Project1970 - LS1 Swap Complete! ![]() |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kannapolis, NC
Posts: 552
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The old is R12 right?
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 2,944
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Yes the old R12 so would you just keep everything stock? I guess just a compressor change is out of the question. Does everything else need to be changed?
Thanks Dave
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Dave 1968 Custom Chevy with turbo charged 5.3 gen III 4l80e swap 1967-71 GMC 3/4 ton long step 4x4 (not sure what year exactly?) "A good friend will bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "that was frekin awesome". "If it doesn't fit force it...If it breaks then it needed to be replaced anyway!" |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kannapolis, NC
Posts: 552
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When i changed a car over from 12, all I did was bleed off the R12, bought some yellow jacket gauges, and put in the new 134. Oil charge, leak sealant and the freon itsself. Has worked fine for 3 years now.
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kannapolis, NC
Posts: 552
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bleh, it came up twice
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Des Moines WA. (Kent, area)
Posts: 668
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orfice tube (filter), reciver/drier, flush out the system,change the compressor if needed(pouring new oil in compressor), pull vac on system, recharge with r-12.
Note: some people put a kit in that changes the system so that it cycles instead of the compressor constantily running,this should be done with the system evacuated.
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70 chev c10 swb fleet 72 grill, sb 400, 2/4 drop. 68 chev c10 swb fleet Early classic 4/6 drop with 4wheel disc brakes 9"rear 67-8 buckets tilt and A/C Classic GM Truck Club of Washington . |
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Lucerne Valley, CA., USA
Posts: 50
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If I can add a question..my 72 has an underdash system. It was installed at the dealer when truck was new, but is not factory air. It has a York compressor. Other than checking/changing the mineral oil in the compressor, does any additional oil have to be added in the system?
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#11 | |
Who's in CHARGE??????????
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Cahokia, IL
Posts: 454
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Quote:
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Send a card to a soldier in Iraq My Music PlayList Large Marge Donate Blood,Plasma,Platelets & sign your DONORS CARD & SAVE a LIFE |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Atoka, Tn
Posts: 64
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If you want to change to R134 then I would suggest the kit POA update kit from classicindustries.com. It is a POA valve deletion kit and it comes with all you need to convert to R134 except the compressor and evaporator. Kits runs at $325
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