1987 chevy scottsdale 4x4 first project

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Well ive been looking at this forum for a long time so ive decided to sign up myself so here is my
truck picked her up for 300 dollars on a ranch. It was originally a 6.2 Detroit Diesel but came
with a seized small block 350.Previous owner said that one day it just didn't start.so we tried
to turn the crankshaft and it wouldn't budge.It is a half ton , 4 inch lift, and it is a automatic
true duals with cherry bombs. Odometer shows 74,XXX miles was also made in Canada.

Here is the seized small block 350 my plans are to replace with a newer small block 350

[Critter]

Looks like a great start! Especially for the price! All hope is not lost if its locked up but was running previously to being parked. Take out all the spark plugs and fill the cylinders with diesel or penetrating oil. Could just be that the pistons are all gunked up in the cylinders. Leave the plugs out and fill it up again with diesel or penetrating oil every day for a few days. After you have done this a couple of days try to turn the crank over with a wrench (not the starter motor). I have had this work more than once one old engines that were froze up from sitting. Maybe you have bigger problems than that but it doesn't hurt to try.

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Got the motor out, took a while as it was my first time but it went smoothly.
Wish i had a bigger cement slab to work on or even a shop lol.

Well talked to my dad he said i could have the motor in his 1990 suburban which he took out
of a 1997 Tahoe i think.. well anyways it is a small block 350 originally fuel injected but he
switched to carb.
STAY TUNED FOLKS[

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Thanks critter Me and My buddy had the same idea of putting some oil in the cylinders to see if it would unlock. but i thought it would be better to add a low mileage engine instead

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well i got the engine out of the donor suburban. very hard to get the engine
stand to move because we had to use it on grass.
This is the donor, 1990 suburban 1500 4x4 6 inch superlift on 33's





This is how far i am at the point with the engine in i have everything hooked up except the alternator wiring
Since im swithcing from the si alternator to a cs alternator i have to make a different connector for the alternator
I did an exhaust upgrade the other day i took off the ehaust's from the manifold back and replaced with 3 inch true
dual exhaust with magnaflows.Here is a picture as where they sit right now.

[bmchevy1979]

Nice bet you would like to get that entire running gear out from under that suburban I know I would

[Altec]

You should put the doors off the 'burb on your truck. I have a set I'm putting on my K10. I love them mirrors.

[MTCK]

Napa makes a nice connector for the alternator that will plug into your factory harness and has the required resistor built in. I think I paid about 14 bucks for it.

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Altec- I was thinking about taking those doors and front clip on the burb and i think i might do it on the summer as it is snowing right now
im a big fan of those mirrors to!

MTCK- I went to local auto part store and asked for that connector but sadly they haven't even heard of it or didn't have it in the warehouse. and none of the other parts store had it. So im just going to make my own...its cheaper to.\

bmchevy1979 haha 2 steps ahead of you I took the running gear and engine out of that

[bmchevy1979]

Classic Industries makes one but there site is down for changes but in the book it is part #CA37796 85 & earlier SI to 86 & later CS130 for $11.95ea

[K20-69-POS]

Dont mean to offend, but why are you wasting what seems like a perfectly good burban?

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Well i needed a pickup for hauling hay,wood,dirtbikes. The suburbans front axle is stripped( i need 4 wheel drive in the winter). The suburban didn't have the transmission or the transfercase. So it would been easier just to take that engine out and put in the pickup

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The engine that i put in the truck that used to be a vortec has the mechanical fuel pump option
so i put the mechanical fuel pump on and was getting no pressure, and i remembered my dad
put a different cam in it(not sure what kind) and im
certain that the camshaft he put in it does not have the fuel pump lobe.



Now since i cant have a mechanical fuel pump. I am going to remove the saddle bag tanks
and replace them with a rear suburban tank with all metal lines going from the sender to the carburetor.

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well havent posted anything in while. here it goes. well ive been deciding on weather or not i should switch to a rear suburban fuel tank. Ive been reading every post on the rear gas tank conversion. So i decided to do the conversion.
Heres how the tank sits as off right now. I cant use the old rear crossmember it is bent in pretty bad. so im looking for a new crossmember. Those rivets were pretty hard to get out i gotta say. I already have all metal fuel lines.

Do u know how much i could sell dual saddle tanks, with selector valve,and all fuel lines with it?

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I got the rear tank all mounted already and painted silver. I will eventually install that skid plate but i would need a new crossmember as the one right now is bent. Hardest part by far is drilling the rivets out....im going to buy a dremel now haha the sawzall is to big for certain places.

next steps are the fuel filler and i am going to make a little door on the floor of the bed to access the fuel pump better if i ever need to replace it which i probably will.

to get the rivets off i cut the tops off with a sawzall(a dremel will work better) then drill out the rivets then pound it out. then use grade 8 bolts for the crossmember

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made two portable work benches/tool holders. small block found a new home in a apple bin haha moved it with my bear hands

[Toxic Redline]

Sweet this will really come in handy! I can't wait to get rid of that ugly saddle tank!

[blackout]

i was happy when i got rid of my saddletanks and ditched the fuel selector valve now i have a one big tank. you wont regret the change

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also on mine how i have it mounted in the middle of the gas tank it will hit the one of the bed supports so most likely you will have to cut a part of the bed support for it clear the tank unless you mount it lower. hope this helped

[jakeblues652]

looks like a good start, but 3" duals are too big for a 350, IMO. i know people with highly modded BBC's that only run 3" pipes.

[Toxic Redline]

Originally Posted by blackout

also on mine how i have it mounted in the middle of the gas tank it will hit the one of the bed supports so most likely you will have to cut a part of the bed support for it clear the tank unless you mount it lower. hope this helped

I have a 2-3 inch body lift.. would that clear it??

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jake- yes 3 inch is a little big and they were free but sounds great with the bigger cam and magnaflow combo
dont you like loud trucks haha?

Toxic redline- oh yeah i forgot you had a body lift it should clear it im sure but measure just to be safe

[jakeblues652]

Originally Posted by blackout

jake- yes 3 inch is a little big and they were free but sounds great with the bigger cam and magnaflow combo
dont you like loud trucks haha?

Toxic redline- oh yeah i forgot you had a body lift it should clear it im sure but measure just to be safe

oh yeah, loud is good, but id bet a buck that if you get a 2 1/4-2 1/2" you'd get a LOT better performance. with dual 3", you have little backpressure, which effects performance alot.

BTW, i can't even hear the radio in my '67 cause its so loud

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well its 3 inch on the last part of the exhaust and then the rest to the exhaust manifolds are smaller. haha yeah mine was super loud too. When i started it for the first time i got pretty excited!

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Have a 5 day weekend so truck workathon!
things i plan on doing
* wire electric fuel pump
* Install toggle switch for fuel pump
* Clean up engine bay
* Battery on Drivers side
* Replace carpet in cab
* Make a fuel in the bed for easy access to fuel pump if ever need to be replaced
* Make a fuel filler in the wheel well or use some metal tubing and route the filler to the RH stock filler door
* Paint valve covers
* Replace transmission filter and fluid
* Replace transfer case fluid
* Shim the starter( pinion gear still engaged after starting) unless its the solenoid? im not sure?
* Put in new gauges(oil,temp,amp,) current gauge lights are not really usefull
* Transmission temp gauge? possibly would be nice

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