How fast do YOU think she will go ?

[djracer]

That would depend on if you use nitrous!

[Super73]

Even using N20, it is still going to cost.. Stock internals can only hold soo much N20.

[Hottrucks]

well better start spending some ching on a cage and some suspention parts because your going to need to stick it so look for some help from DJ and Super73 ..looks like Super has it going on with that left front off the ground ......

then better find someone who can build a good trans with a solid shift and add DS loops

ok well now that you can run safe and stick the wimpy 400 hp you have then we can build some power....might as well shoot it with 250 till it blows up or yank it out start with good bearings and H rods and dump the stock pistons add the one cam that is available and buy a new rocker setup for your heads ..speaking of heads you need to pull a cover and get the # off them to find out which ones you have.....lucky you can save a few bucks since you have an intake and carb....that should save you a couple of hundered on a few thousand $$ build....

these things will build BIG power but it costs so as long as your good with that I can get you info on what you need

[Super73]

Here are a few equations I have figured out over the years..

Cheap + Slow = Decent longevity but not always reliable

Cheap + Fast = Does not last long (Many broken parts and pissed off track employees from cleaning up your mess, not to mentioned pissed off racers waiting for the track employees)

Spending money + slow = Lots of reliability and longevity

Spending money + Fast = Reliability but not always longevity


The point I am trying to make is you can go fast on a budget, but you might be sad from having to fix things on a regular basis. Or you and others can be happy that you spent money on good parts keeping things together for a long time while enjoying your fast ride.

Overbuild things based on your plans. If you want to go in the low 10's, build it as though you are trying to go in the mid-low 9's. This is what I should have done in the begining because I have spent more money in the long run.

[Hottrucks]

^^^^^^^^^^ been there very well said^^^^^^

[low&slow]

Thanks for the inputs guys.

This summer I'm hoping to get a 12 point cage. Another cab to do a chop top and a small nitrous kit. And a bunch more things. I'll need all that including the cage just to run 12's. I do how ever realize all the work it's going to take and all the money I'm going to be spending on. As far as that goes, good news I don't have a dead line. Bad news, I don't have a job

[Hottrucks]

if thats the case then find a job..yea I know not easy.. trust me... then I would start with getting some suspention under it.....then a cab if you want to go that far you may as well plan out an 8 point cage although I think 6 would do it with a good cross bar just incase..in the mean time your going to have a killer street truck then find a motor to build

[low&slow]

Street truck, no. Already have one of them and this one is strictly drag racing only. Keep the miles low on it.

Why an 8 or 6 point cage over a 10 or a 12?

[Super73]

If you are planning on low 10's, an 8 point will be the min requirement. The more points, generally the more safe it is but the heavier it is.

[1Bad62Pro/Street]

YouTube - PASSTIME

YouTube - Slickskiller on Pass Time

http://www.speedtv.com/programs/pass-time/

[djracer]

That was filmed the same night as mine. That truck was for sale pretty cheap awhile back.

[low&slow]

Well I just found out from a friend that's a hardcore drag racer and knows the rules pretty darn good. He said I don't need a roll cage or drive shaft loops or any other safety requirements till I start going faster than 11.49, other than the usual helmet and seat belt.

So going off of that, What all can I do to the truck as well as the Caddy to get in the mid 12's on a fairly cheap budget?

[Super73]

This is how I would do it in this order:

Tires (Slicks or a good big drag radial)
Posi (Leave your current gears until you know where the new ones need to be by going through the traps and seeing what your tach reads)
Converter (make this decision based on N20 or NA)
Suspension
Now start adding HP