Rewiring Alternator

[Rannos]

I am installing a late model CS130 GM alternator in my 64 and after looking at what schematics I can find I am not certain what i need to do to remove the external regulator, or if I should leave it pluged in. Anyone have some advice or maybe a schematic showing what i need to do to remove the regulator?

[LostMy65]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=417872

[MikeN]

M&H Electrical makes a neat little harness that's plug-and-play for swapping to an internally regulated alternator.

http://www.wiringharness.com/

It runs $19.00...

http://www.wiringharness.com/PDFS/TR...hevy_Truck.pdf

[A.T. RockDriller]

Here is a basic drawing of the external VR set-up.
I'll repost with pic's of my 100 amp alt with instructions on how to proceed.
Omit the Ford diagram.....or save it for the farm tractor.
Between Lostmy65 and my help, we'll get you taken care of.

[A.T. RockDriller]

Okay..
Now what I did was.
I removed the hot wire from the external V-R to the starter main lug.
Then make a new hot wire to go from the starter main lug to the back of the 130 amp alt. Make it long enough so you can secure it to the inner fender. Do a pretty job on the wire and solder the connectors and use heat-shrink if you can.
then make a shorter wire in the same fashion to hook up to the horn relay, as you will need to power that thing back up after you get rid of the external voltage regulator.
All you need to do now is take the brown wire that was wired to the #4 spot on the old V-R plug, cut it as long as you can and lengthen it to hook it to the brown wire on the plug for your new alternator.
The Orange wire from that new plug goes to the hot lug along with the heavy gauge red wire that you made to go to the starter.
In this case, the starter main lug is used as an effective "Hot" terminal/lug for 12V distribution.
That's it.
The alternator charges the battery by sending voltage to the 'distribution lug' at the starter and back to the battery via the positive cable.
The alternator knows the state of charge of the battery because the exciter is connected directly to the power lug which is powered through the big red wire that you made...(voltage runs both directions through these wires)and the 'gen' light in your dash is getting it's 12+ volts from the brown wire that you hooked up to the new alternator plug.
So.....now there is nothing for the old V-R and accompanying wiring loom to do so you remove the three phillips screws, make sure you have good grounds from all components to battery, frame block or inner-fender and that they have good cross grounds, hang the old stuff on the wall in the barn and you're in business.
Any questions, send me a message and I'll give you my phone # and help you figure it out.