454 Build started!!

[ProStreet83C10]

ok so, it not OFFICIALLY started but i got most of the parts i need to get a start with it. Now, the family of the guy i brought it from, brought it 4 hrs back from where they were to me, and unfortunately forgot to grab the crank and intake, not a huge deal as the main component i need is the block. Anyway, heres some pics i took after i took delivery of the engine/components



















































Some of these casting # are big question marks to me BUT i know some of you guys will be able to tell me what a lot of these mean. The block looks to be in REALLY good shape so im excited about that.

[3r!c84]

What Are you looking for in it. And plans of power or stock build
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[Pop's C-10]

Nice iron

[ProStreet83C10]

600-700hp minimum build
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[cjlinkster]

cool! Looks like you have a nice block.

I did notice that it is from a passenger car; the truck versions are usually 4 bolt mains.

A good reference book on rebuilding the BBC is "How to Rebuild Your Big Block Chevy" by Tom wilson. He really does a good job of stepping the reader through the process of identifying the parts; cleaning; machining, and reassembly.

[ProStreet83C10]

nope, actually that casting is for a truck only....from what nastyz28.com has said

1401544 1975-87 454 truck

[BigBlocksRule]

14045445 is probably the most common casting Chevy made. Should be fine, unless you go very far over that "700hp minimum". 650 - 700hp is about what most recommend at the high end for a 2-bolt production block. Yours is a passenger block, not a tall deck. You have what you need.
Heads are peanut ports, great for a heavy tow truck but not good on a higher revving ProStreet rig. If you plan to spend most of your time on the street, find some castings that end in -781 or -049. They're large ovals, open chamber, should be easy to find.
A factory cast crank ain't going to live for long at that power level, either. Try to find a factory forged crank, or go aftermarket.
Those look like "thumb" rods - is the scallop on the sides round at the big end or shaped more like a "Y"? If round, they're "thumb" rods, strongest OEM rod that used 3/8" rod bolts. Even with aftermarket bolts, your 700hp is about the limit for those.

Don't shoot for a specific power level. Build something that's streetable (pump gas with a rough idle but still isn't a pain with heel-toe driving to keep it idling) and affordable (OEM heads, reconditioned rods, forged crank) and regardless of what a dyno says, you'll have something that'll shred tires and push your eyeballs toward the back of your skull.
When you've grown tired of that, snag an aftermarket block, stroker crank and aftermarket heads and try your luck with a 540 or bigger mill. Enjoy limited traction with your current build, though, 'cause there won't be any at all with the big engine.

IF you're considering a stroker, there's a Scat cast one that comes up pretty much weekly on ebay. It's in Florida with a $250 opening bid, $275 buy-it-now, free shipping. It'll take +.250 rods, can't use stock length, but good Scats can be had for around $300. The .250 longer stroke will make you a believer in longer stroked engines

[ProStreet83C10]

well im gonna do a 496 stroker to begin with, and itll be a full roller motor with a fully forged rotating assy and alum. heads. Im gonna take my time building it and put only the best parts in it, buying them when the budget allows. i DO also fully intend on driving this truck when its done, so i WILL be adding a GearVendors unit to the TH400 so i can hopefully cruise down the highway/interstate and get over 10 mpg.

bigblocksrule, you really seem to know your stuff, can you PM me a cell # or any means of contact to you so if i have any questions to ask i can just contact you directly?