Register or Log In To remove these advertisements. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
08-29-2011, 01:17 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Epping, NH
Posts: 605
|
why am I breaking starters?
I got this truck 2 years ago with a new starter and a bad flexplate. Replaced the flexplate and didn't drive it much for a year while I replaced other stuff. Few weeks ago the still new-looking starter failed, the stud that the battery cable goes on snapped the plastic or ceramic or whatever it is that it goes through. I know better than to overtighten the nut on that stud, but I thought maybe it was my fault and threw another starter in.
-I should mention that when I did the flexplate, I noticed the starter wiring was burned up and sketchy-looking, so I made a new harness up with new primary wire and fusible links, and put in a 1.0 gauge battery cable.- I've been driving it around, to work and so forth with no problem. Last week I took it on it's maiden voyage towing the big camper, made it ten miles and with no warning the starter engaged. Pulled over and unhooked the battery, messed around with the wires and got it going again. Another ten miles it happened again, so I dropped the starter and found the same thing had happened, the stud was broken in the starter and the case part was cracked apart. I know damned well I didn't overtighten it this time. Got a ride to the nearest parts store, $25 and a few minutes work and I was underway again. I can't figure out how any torque could be getting put on it to break it like that. These are just cheap parts store starters, but they shouldn't keep failing in the same place for no reason. Only thing that I can possibly think of is the new battery cable is heavier, and is kind of hanging loose. idk if maybe it could be bouncing enough to hurt something. Doesn't seem likely at all. I'm also real concerned about the heat coming from the exhaust manifold, it was starting to melt the new battery cable, even from a couple inches away. I was able to clock the cable down and tighten it so it's even farther from the manifold, but if it breaks again it will move and touch the unused starter terminal. Wonder if maybe the extreme heat alone is causing the solenoid cover to snap? How do you get the heat out of these trucks? I know the 454 is known for cracking manifolds due to heat, but my engine temp (coolant) has stayed within a safe range.
__________________
1982 Chevy K30 CCLB fleetside. Formerly a cab and chassis, now a fleetside dually with the rear wheels tucked underneath. 454/th400/np205/C14/D60, 6/4 inch LIFT, not drop. |
08-29-2011, 02:47 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: greenwood arkansas
Posts: 61
|
Re: why am I breaking starters?
buy a ac delco starter. i just went through 3 oriellys starters that kept breaking the hotwire off. threw down 60 more bucks for a delco problem solved
|
08-29-2011, 02:59 PM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Epping, NH
Posts: 605
|
Re: why am I breaking starters?
I didn't want to shell out the extra bucks for ACDelco until I knew what the problem was. That's the way I was thinking anyway, rather than have it happen to an expensive one. But I see your point. So far mine have been different brands of rebuilts.
__________________
1982 Chevy K30 CCLB fleetside. Formerly a cab and chassis, now a fleetside dually with the rear wheels tucked underneath. 454/th400/np205/C14/D60, 6/4 inch LIFT, not drop. |
08-29-2011, 05:08 PM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 3,191
|
Re: why am I breaking starters?
x2 on Delco. I went with GM OEM high torque mini starter, but they are up around $200 now. Off brand mini starters are around $120-$150. However, if you have flywheel trouble I would not put a good alternator in there and risk ruining it. I stick with OEM GM on important stuff, especially electrical. Simple mechanical items like bushings, steering parts, brake parts, etc., I will go with name brand aftermarket, but I still price GM OEM for these and will go GM if within a reasonable price range.
|
08-29-2011, 11:58 PM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 1,009
|
Re: why am I breaking starters?
Agreed on GM. Solved the problem with my 350 I used to have. Mine did the exact same thing for a while and I put an AC Delco starter in it and bingo, problem solved.
__________________
Steve Member of the Foot Pedal Club '83 Chevy K20: 6" Rough Country, 3" Performance Accessories BL, Bushwacker Cutouts, 38x15.50 Mickey Thompson Baja Claws, 350 HP 350 crate engine from Jegs, Turbo 400 |
08-30-2011, 01:16 AM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: washington
Posts: 4,178
|
Re: why am I breaking starters?
when replacing parts at oreillys (its schucks to me still b*sta**s haha) just go with ac delco, and never a reman. poor man buys it twice or three or four or...
__________________
377 sbc thumpr cam autogear m23 muncie 3:73 Detroit trutrac 3''spintech prostreet mufflers xpipe 1 3/4 headers build thread !http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=577217 Iroc gauge threadhttp://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=554511 |
08-30-2011, 02:06 AM | #7 |
78 Big10 454
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Pismo Beach, CA
Posts: 839
|
Re: why am I breaking starters?
When my factory starter went out, I had it rebuilt. The reason was that it would fit back on with no problem (shims, etc).
|
08-30-2011, 09:27 AM | #8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Epping, NH
Posts: 605
|
Re: why am I breaking starters?
OK, if this one doesn't hold up I will buy ACDelco. I just didn't want to until I knew what was causing this particular failure. But if you've seen this before and it was corrected by a new starter, good enough for me. Thanks.
__________________
1982 Chevy K30 CCLB fleetside. Formerly a cab and chassis, now a fleetside dually with the rear wheels tucked underneath. 454/th400/np205/C14/D60, 6/4 inch LIFT, not drop. |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|