no suspension, now what?

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by mknittle

Why cant the fenders front core support and grille come off in one unit?

From what dwscr is saying the seams between the fenders and grille have been filled and there is concern over them cracking when the clip is removed. Welded part can be delt with but that paint would be very difficult to match. If Denee can get the inner fender panels out it will not be as hard to install the IFS

[Coupeguy2001]

go to kimbridge.com G body suspension that was made for a 4000 LB vehicle.
this the nicest for $1300 plus $200 for donor parts. Then you need to change the rear to keep the lug patterns the same front and rear.
Once it's done, you have endless possibilities for wheels and tires.
Just leave 2 extra inches on the frame from where they tell you to cut.
THis puts the radiator in the 6 cyl. position, moves the engine forward 3 inches, allows HEI distributor, uses suspension pieces that are very plentiful,(read cheap) and gives you disc brakes, sway bar, drops it 5 inches, allows a straight steering column shaft, power steering (There are three steering ratios you can use), you can raise it and lower it with different springs and even use drop spindles or coil overs to get it really low.
And if you don't like how low it is, you can even get S-10 lift spindles that raise it back up to almost stock height.
Hotchkis and TCI and Detroit Speed, CPP, and others support this suspension with racing pieces. The list is endlesss.
You can use a big block or small block, or buy the adapters and go LS1

P.S. mine was welded with the fenders on...............

[tech@scottshotrods]

or you can support a supporting vendor and purchase a COMPLETE front IFS with coil overs, with rack and pinion steering, with upper and lower adjustable control arms, with disc brakes built to order to your specs for 700.00 more than the kimbridge frame rail only piece....

[meter swinger]

Scotts ifs is definately a good looking peice of metal art. I believe cajun dragger has one under his AD truck, and if i read his last post right he has had it up to 140 mph. Not sure if thats crazy or not but sure is impressive and says alot for thier suspension system. .02 worth
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[Denee007]

I DON'T WANT TO LOWER MY TRUCK 5 AND 1/2 INCHES! 3"'s max. I think a truck should sit like a truck(even though it will never be used like a truck). At best I'd like the top of the front tire to be at least level with the fender. I haven't totally ordered the MustangII, but I hate being wishy washy to a man that's helping me and getting me a MII for less than 1500.!
Nothing I'd like to do better than to support this forum Jon@Scottshods!

I opened this thread to see what's out there for suspension and looking for the best suspension, for the least amount of money, least amount of physical activity(lol), and a safe ride,and NOT putting my truck 3" from the pavement. Now all of a sudden I'm seeing Options! now I get to call my friend and put a hold on the MII~ gee, he's going to dis-own me! and DARN, he's helped me so much and within a short amount of time!

Dave Chapman has been here at my home and knows what I'm dealing with and he explained my trucks dilema very well!

Dave, I'm calling you to find out more about this Kimbridge setup! Just to clear the air about options.
I appreciate everyone's opinions, advice and observations That's why I'm on this site!
dne'

[mknittle]

the mid 70 camaro I used only lowered my 52 GMC about 3" not enough for me though. I don't want to drag the ground but just lower.
I don't like the MIIs because they are designed for a Pinto, about half the weight of your truck. I know the aftermarket parts are beefed up but I don't like the way the upper "A" arm mounts.I just looks Hokey and hard to align. I do my own alignment. and the MII looks like i would need 3 hands. JMO

Mark

[Hotchkis]

Originally Posted by Denee007

Hi, it's been a while, but I've been fairly busy. I got around to removing my front suspension to replace it with what?
I have a friend that's helping me with decisions, but do like to hear the consensus from ya'll too.
ONe thing I have to convey, is that the fenders can't be removed due to the PO, or the body shop that did the paint/body work, kind of made the fenders semi-permanent by using filler between the fenders and whatever else. This morning I'll be removing the inner fenders, so there should be ample room for "whatever" I put in.
Leaning towards the MII, but I've been reading, surfing the net ,and seems very few people like the MII!? All I've read is, "I don't like it?" kind of responses. However, I do read a lot of good things about the front clip swaps. I think I could do it ok, but can it be done with the body and front fenders on? Otherwise the Mustang II would probably be my best choice or just stick with stock front end(new of course).
I'll be back, going to pull out the front inner fenders.
dne' ; )

Denee007 - Nice blank canvas! The fenders welded to the body shouldn't cause troubles. If you're in the market for a front suspension that's ton's better than stock. Take a look at Hotchkis from suspension. It's a night and day difference compared to stock front suspension and it's easy to install.










Here's John Hotchkis briefly talking about the C-10 front suspension.

New Hotchkis Chevy C10 Parts at SEMA 2008 -...

�

This video shows H-Team member Mike Hickman's Hotchkis-equipped C-10 truck.

2011 Goodguys AutoX with Hotchkis Sport...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=466805

[tech@scottshotrods]

Originally Posted by Hotchkis

Denee007 - Nice blank canvas! The fenders welded to the body shouldn't cause troubles. If you're in the market for a front suspension that's ton's better than stock. Take a look at Hotchkis from suspension. It's a night and day difference compared to stock front suspension and it's easy to install.










Here's John Hotchkis briefly talking about the C-10 front suspension.

New Hotchkis Chevy C10 Parts at SEMA 2008 - YouTube

�

This video shows H-Team member Mike Hickman's Hotchkis-equipped C-10 truck.

2011 Goodguys AutoX with Hotchkis Sport Suspension - YouTube


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=466805

that may be ok for a c-10 but the 47-59 trucks suspensions are completely different

[tech@scottshotrods]

Originally Posted by Denee007

I DON'T WANT TO LOWER MY TRUCK 5 AND 1/2 INCHES! 3"'s max. I think a truck should sit like a truck(even though it will never be used like a truck). At best I'd like the top of the front tire to be at least level with the fender. I haven't totally ordered the MustangII, but I hate being wishy washy to a man that's helping me and getting me a MII for less than 1500.!
Nothing I'd like to do better than to support this forum Jon@Scottshods!

I opened this thread to see what's out there for suspension and looking for the best suspension, for the least amount of money, least amount of physical activity(lol), and a safe ride,and NOT putting my truck 3" from the pavement. Now all of a sudden I'm seeing Options! now I get to call my friend and put a hold on the MII~ gee, he's going to dis-own me! and DARN, he's helped me so much and within a short amount of time!

Dave Chapman has been here at my home and knows what I'm dealing with and he explained my trucks dilema very well!

Dave, I'm calling you to find out more about this Kimbridge setup! Just to clear the air about options.
I appreciate everyone's opinions, advice and observations That's why I'm on this site!
dne'

we can build our front crossmember to your specs so if you want a ride height 3" from stock we can do that!

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by jon@scottshotrods

we can build our front crossmember to your specs so if you want a ride height 3" from stock we can do that!

let me guess about $3500.00 Just for fun how far off am I?

[Coupeguy2001]

Mr Hochkis,
In all fairness to you, You know the difference between coil spring front ends and leaf spring front ends such as presented on mid 80's chevy 2X4's and 4X4's.
The early chevy trucks have the 4X4 suspensions on 2 wheel drive trucks with a solid axle and king pins. No ball joints on the vehicle at all.
The only palatable solutions are to cut the frame and weld on a suitable subframe, or replace the central front crossmember and weld on some type of unequal length control arm suspension that will support ample braking solutions.
There are a few that are popular:
1. camaro-firebird subframes
2. totally aftermarket fabricated subframes
3. mustang II derived crossmember and anchoring systems
4. Chevelle 68-72 front frame sections with "A" body suspensions
5. G body front frame sections with the "G"body suspensions
6. transform the truck into a 4X4 and lift it
7. place the original frame on top of a 80's pickup frame and weld the two together.
8. C10 front frame and components
9. replace the entire frame
All of these choices suit a wide variety of folks that are looking for cheap, easy, adequate handling and utility.
Not every choice satisfies every requirement.
Your C10 stuff isn't even possible due to the nature of the early 50's truck frames unless the C10 frame was grafted onto the early frame.
With a "G" body front frame, you are in the ballpark.
Your Chevelle stuff also is a player if that front frame is selected.
I hope you understand where the early truck is placed in the modification table.
GM saddled us with a vehicle that is awsome in style, a totally sturdy but low speed, poor handling vehicle in any day's environment. The brakes are totally inadequate given the removal of asbestos from the friction material used in brake materials available today.
THAT is our problem, and the solutions are out there, it is up to the individual truck owner to move on it.

[tech@scottshotrods]

Originally Posted by mknittle

let me guess about $3500.00 Just for fun how far off am I?

about 1500.00.... the custom cross member is 2000.00 complete hub to hub. 100.00 upgrade to power rack,150.00 for motor mounts if needed, 65.00 per steering ujoint usually requires 3, 25.00 on the 3/4" dd heim mount, stainless dd shaft 70.00, braided brake line kit 65.00, 150.00 for a power steering line kit. so even with all that it comes to 2755.00 745.00 and with that chunk left over you can get a snazy new column

[solidaxel]

Did I tell you how easy the Scotts IFS was to install!
It looks like you have enough room with the fenders in place to weld the Scotts crossmember with room to spare.The parts that Jon mentioned you are going to purchasas from who ever you get your IFS from

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Coupeguy2001

Mr Hochkis,
In all fairness to you, You know the difference between coil spring front ends and leaf spring front ends such as presented on mid 80's chevy 2X4's and 4X4's.
The early chevy trucks have the 4X4 suspensions on 2 wheel drive trucks with a solid axle and king pins. No ball joints on the vehicle at all.
The only palatable solutions are to cut the frame and weld on a suitable subframe, or replace the central front crossmember and weld on some type of unequal length control arm suspension that will support ample braking solutions.
There are a few that are popular:
1. camaro-firebird subframes
2. totally aftermarket fabricated subframes
3. mustang II derived crossmember and anchoring systems
4. Chevelle 68-72 front frame sections with "A" body suspensions
5. G body front frame sections with the "G"body suspensions
6. transform the truck into a 4X4 and lift it
7. place the original frame on top of a 80's pickup frame and weld the two together.
8. C10 front frame and components
9. replace the entire frame
All of these choices suit a wide variety of folks that are looking for cheap, easy, adequate handling and utility.
Not every choice satisfies every requirement.
Your C10 stuff isn't even possible due to the nature of the early 50's truck frames unless the C10 frame was grafted onto the early frame.
With a "G" body front frame, you are in the ballpark.
Your Chevelle stuff also is a player if that front frame is selected.
I hope you understand where the early truck is placed in the modification table.
GM saddled us with a vehicle that is awsome in style, a totally sturdy but low speed, poor handling vehicle in any day's environment. The brakes are totally inadequate given the removal of asbestos from the friction material used in brake materials available today.
THAT is our problem, and the solutions are out there, it is up to the individual truck owner to move on it.

right you are, that is why the shows are so much fun,....Off to cruse nite.

[Hotchkis]

Originally Posted by Coupeguy2001

Mr Hochkis,
In all fairness to you, You know the difference between coil spring front ends and leaf spring front ends such as presented on mid 80's chevy 2X4's and 4X4's.

Hey all, we do know the difference between the earlier trucks and newer ones, but clicked on the wrong section of the forum by accident. Sorry if anyone got their hopes up about Hotchkis making truck parts for the 47-59 trucks.

[entourageguy]

Originally Posted by Hotchkis

Hey all, we do know the difference between the earlier trucks and newer ones, but clicked on the wrong section of the forum by accident. Sorry if anyone got their hopes up about Hotchkis making truck parts for the 47-59 trucks.

No problem you will get the hang of it. Now back to the drawing board and work on some suspension for our trucks.

[meter swinger]

^^^^^ what he said
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[Denee007]

giggle giggle~, I even figured that out, but didn't say anything! I fogive you, but that was a nice looking setup!

Originally Posted by Hotchkis

Hey all, we do know the difference between the earlier trucks and newer ones, but clicked on the wrong section of the forum by accident. Sorry if anyone got their hopes up about Hotchkis making truck parts for the 47-59 trucks.

[CHIZZLER]

Quality.

[AUSSIE54]

G'day Denee, just to throw a cat amongst the pigeons but why not checkout a series two Jaguar Series II front end? They can be made to be bolted on, or welded in and come complete with factory correct geometry, double wish bone, factory mounted power steering rack. Alternate upper mountings for the shocks are needed but not a huge task either. Not sure how cheap they are or how easy to find over there but could be worth a look. Here's a link for a starting point: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=414496

Regards,
Trent.
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[mknittle]

Originally Posted by CHIZZLER

Quality.

those sure are some pretty weld beads.