putting a new motor in, need advice

[williamsboys]

So i got an I6 in my 66 now, but bought a complete turnkey rebuilt 327. seen in the pic. [IMG][/IMG]. im also planning on buying a 700r4 to put behind it. I was just wondering if anyone out there has already did this swap. do i need to move the motor mounts also do i need new mounts? what about tranny cross member, move or by new? and also what about rear ends? i haven't learned that far into my build what would be some good gears to put in, also can i make this stock rear end a posi? do i need a diff radiator, also whats a good shifter to put on the floor, its 3on the tree now but will be auto when i get the tranny. any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.

[Indian113]

Can't help you on motor mounts I already had a V8,but I bought a trans mount from Classics and I just drilled new holes in frame and bolted it up. When I put in my 700R4 I also had to shorten my driveshaft

[Clyde65]

What size 6cyl? 230/250 and the V8 use the same perches, 292 uses 1 different one, I think passenger side. 700 is a common swap, like indian said, you can use your orig or buy one from CPP or Classic, drill and bolt.

[kieth]

Originally Posted by Indian113

Can't help you on motor mounts I already had a V8,but I bought a trans mount from Classics and I just drilled new holes in frame and bolted it up. When I put in my 700R4 I also had to shorten my driveshaft

If you are doing a frame off resto, save some money, after you buy the new trans mount and get the engine and transmission in, move the center crossmember back 1.5" it will center your wheels and tires in the fender well and I think it will also let you use your stock driveline, I believe we shortened my driveshaft about that much. You can save cash , get more room for the tires and wheels.......not a bad way to go. Kieth

[Rich 5150 69]

Any suburban auto trans crossmember up to `85 will fit fine for the 700, almost like it was made for it, you just need to drill two holes.

[williamsboys]

ok. thanks for all the input. any ideas on what gears to run in the back, should i get a new radiator and also what about a shifter for the floor?

[Indian113]

I'm running 3:73's also Jegs has a b&m floor shifter for around 125.00

[Rich 5150 69]

Do you want to tie up valuable floor space with shifter...? Its up to you, or go to http://www.lokar.com/index.html

[urbilly]

i've got a 66 that had a stock i6, i installed a 400 small block, with a 700r4. i used the front set of holes for engine mounts, stock small block engine pads, stock engine mounts.the stock driveshaft worked out perfect. i also used a mid 80's camaro trans cross member, but did have to put a 1 inch spacer under trans mount pad. i am running a trukool alum rad, that is wide enough to fit between inner fenders, though i had to fab a new battery box, about an inch smaller to accomodate. i will be running an aux. radiator heat exchanger, seeing as how my new rad doesnt have radiator cooling. i swapped out the steering column from 3.o.t. to auto column shift w/tilt. i hope it helps

[protrash64]

Rear gears in 60-66 trucks were 3:73 or 4:10 which is what the factory uses behind newer trucks with 700r4's. You should be good unless its been changed.

[jocko]

protrash - I always thought factory gears were 3.73:1 or 3.08:1 (the "option"). But I've also seen/heard several times that 4.10's were available too. Is there a definitive answer on what the standard and optional ratios were for 66? I'm just curious.

Williamsboys, I've a got 3.73 and a T5 which has a .72 (this one anyway) od gear. Not far off from a 700R4 4th gear - and I like that combo - still gives good low end plus smooth sailing on highway. Have cake and eat it too. Also, like my set-up, the 700 has a fairly deep first gear, so you could probably go a little lower numerically and still have tons of bottom end feel and do even better on the hwy. But I think your ideal gear is somewhere between 3.30-3.80 range. Nice lookin motor by the way!

[protrash64]

Jocko, if there were 3:08's available no one would complain about driving on the freeway!! I'm pretty sure that I'm correct in reference to the 1/2 tons. The 3/4's had some even lower gears! 4:56 I believe. Not to say that they couldnt be swapped outfor something else. I'm not an expert on all the factory stuff; just familiar with what I have and the issues of others doing these trucks.

I think 3:08 became available in the 67+ trucks. I have one in my 'burb(5-lug). Cap'n fab is pretty knowledgable and maybe he would chime in.

[protrash64]

Just read thru the info section and there was a 3:07 'Max Economy' ratio. I dont see it listed specifically for 63-66. Lot of info on that list.

[williamsboys]

if im not mistaken i dont have a posi rearend. should i swap out rearends or can i change the guts to make it posi?

[williamsboys]

do yall think i should buy a new radiator or just get mine checked and maybe cleaned out. also whats so great about the aluminum one to make them 500 dollars are they worth saving up for and getting?

[protrash64]

Originally Posted by williamsboys

if im not mistaken i dont have a posi rearend. should i swap out rearends or can i change the guts to make it posi?

Didnt mean to hijack your thread earlier. If you have the truck 12bolt rear end you can convert to posi if you want to as they are essentially the same for many years and have parts available.

I dont know what radiator you're looking at but it better install itself for 500 bucks. I use cheapy Summit generics for under 200. Have to fab up mounting and thats it.

[williamsboys]

cool. thanks protrash64

[Clyde65]

Use the Ebay Champion Aluminum rad, works great for me.

[williamsboys]

clyde65 i found those rads thanks, do you run a mechanical or electric fan, if electric is it complicated to wire up?