Is it really as easy as it seems?

[low&slow]

Hey there all. Got a '69 chevy c10 and I'm wanting to do a static drop on the front. I've read quite a bit about how much to cut off and decided that with a very low budget of $0.00, that one coil will do me just fine. Now I'm wondering, Is it really as easy as it looks and seems? I mean is that all it takes? Just pull the springs out, cut one coil, then put back in OR is there miscellaneous parts and pieces that I need to buy?

Also, I have springs in the back. Is it possible to do the same thing to the back?

[tubbedII]

I would say you shouldn't do this task and think you don't have to spend any money. You're going to have it apart so it's the best time to change the BJ's, and afterwards you are going to need an aligment which might end up meaning you'll also need new tie rods.

For the rears, you can't cut them...they taper for the mounting brackets. This means that if you don't buy rear springs you'll have a very large rake, and before you get the alignment, you should have both the front and rear at the stance you want.

Sorry...

[67mater]

I also want to point out that nothing is ever "easy" and you may well find (depending on history and condition) that it's HUGE job just to get the old suspension apart.

[CC69Rat]

Yes, this stuff has likely been together for 43 years. .. (assuming the worst case scenario) So when you bust the ball joints apart, usually it will do some damage. Even if it didn't it's best to put some new ones in while you have it apart. Which also means the factory ones are usually rivited in (= PITA to remove ) .. BUT .. if you want to dedicate the time and money to do it, plan on a weekend and $50 for balljoints, about $75 for an alignmnet and another $50 or so for cleaners, misc paint so you can detail it, etc.

Also, do it right. Autozone has a coil spring compressor you can borrow with the free loan a tool program. Go get it. The springs can kill you. It's that simple. Saftey is key here. Don't shortcut it if you've never done this. The springs are under tremendous load.

Anything over 1 full turn off the coils and I would consider replacement springs. Just my .02.

[VA72C10]

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

Yes, this stuff has likely been together for 43 years. .. (assuming the worst case scenario) So when you bust the ball joints apart, usually it will do some damage. Even if it didn't it's best to put some new ones in while you have it apart. Which also means the factory ones are usually rivited in (= PITA to remove ) .. BUT .. if you want to dedicate the time and money to do it, plan on a weekend and $50 for balljoints, about $75 for an alignmnet and another $50 or so for cleaners, misc paint so you can detail it, etc.

Also, do it right. Autozone has a coil spring compressor you can borrow with the free loan a tool program. Go get it. The springs can kill you. It's that simple. Saftey is key here. Don't shortcut it if you've never done this. The springs are under tremendous load.

Anything over 1 full turn off the coils and I would consider replacement springs. Just my .02.

good advice!

[CC69Rat]

6 lug Im guessing? Now would be the time to consider drop spindles too instead of cutting your springs. Youd keep the factory ride, steering geometry, alingment etc. And could also change it over to discs.. but, just saying. While you have this stuff apart is the time to do it. You dont want to re-do if you add more drop later on..
Posted via Mobile Device

[hopped up]

i cut my rear spring and it rides much better than when i had the jeep springs.
Posted via Mobile Device

[PanelDeland]

Just a note of cauton,I took my running driving truck apart to install drop spindles.The passenger side spring came out in 3 pieces.New springs run about $120.00 a pr.It took a week for them to get here.

[Sideways]

On a 69 c10 shortbox stepside I had, I used 3/4 ton coils and cut one round out of them and added an anti-sway bar and PS.It handled and rode great,maybe I just got lucky.

I paid $50 for the alignment and the rest of the parts I had in the shed.

[low&slow]

Thanks for the advice guys. However, I do not wish to make this into some fancy truck I drive on the road. Building it into a drag truck and just wanting to give it a little style. I do plan on going the disc brake route and drop spindles eventually within the next 4 years or so . You guys did mention drop springs. $120 a pair. As far as ball joints, springs, and alignment, is there anything else I need to buy? As for the drop springs, is that all I need to do a small drop?

[TheSuspensionSource]

You will wish you would not have cut your springs after a few longer trips. When you cut coil springs it takes away from the ride quality.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by TheSuspensionSource

You will wish you would not have cut your springs after a few longer trips. When you cut coil springs it takes away from the ride quality.

It's very subjective. I have hundreds of thousands of miles under my belt in trucks with cut coils. No complaints here.

[Sideways]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

It's very subjective. I have hundreds of thousands of miles under my belt in trucks with cut coils. No complaints here.

x2

I have two daily drivers with this treatment and they worked great.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

It's very subjective. I have hundreds of thousands of miles under my belt in trucks with cut coils. No complaints here.

Same here. I have done this many times, and in most cases prefer this over a drop coil.

[VA72C10]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Same here. I have done this many times, and in most cases prefer this over a drop coil.

That's very interesting to me. Why do you prefer them? Saving the cost of springs or is it something to do with the spring rates and ride quality? Also do you cut the rears also and reshape to fit?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Tx Firefighter]

About cut versus commercial coils...

I understand that the Suspension Source has a vested interest in this subject and I respect that. But, you fellas have seen me build a lot of trucks on here in the last 9 years and pictures of many more from before I joined here. I speak from my personal experience, the cut coil rides a good bit better than a specific 3 inch drop spring. On a 2 inch drop, I will buy coils (DJM, Ground Force, Belltech, and ECE are brands I've used recently). They ride fine. But a commercial 3 inch drop coil rides too stiff. For that application, I always use a cut original coil.

[VA72C10]

Thanks for the info. Guess they haven't found that sweet spot on spring rate then. Do you think it has something to do with the stock springs sagging slightly due to age then the rate is increased by cutting them therefore effectively changing the spring rate? I will do this on my current project since a 3/5 was all I planned. Do you ever cut the rears or do you purchase new?
Posted via Mobile Device

[low&slow]

So having all that being said, I'm pretty sure I'm just going to cut the springs. For it to be a drag truck, I don't think I really need to worry much about how it rides or anything.

As for actually cutting the springs, for a one coil cut, how much is that going to drop the front?
Is it going to give it that extreme of a rake as mentioned above?

[VA72C10]

every truck is different but usually around 3" drop...and yes, if you don't drop the rear...you'll have an extreme rake and likely hurt performance for drag racing....

You want the rear to squat...not all the weight leaning towards the front and the rear up in the air...

to be level it has to be 2" lower in the rear so a 3/5 drop is close to level...

you can find 5" rear lowering springs on ebay for under 100 shipped from time to time...

[KQQL IT]

Daily drove my 77 from 1990 to 99 with cut coils. Cut them with a chop saw. A torch will kill the temper.
btw my 73 is on cut coils as well.
And my brother in laws 91 will be also.
Posted via Mobile Device

[low&slow]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

every truck is different but usually around 3" drop...and yes, if you don't drop the rear...you'll have an extreme rake and likely hurt performance for drag racing....

You want the rear to squat...not all the weight leaning towards the front and the rear up in the air...

to be level it has to be 2" lower in the rear so a 3/5 drop is close to level...

you can find 5" rear lowering springs on ebay for under 100 shipped from time to time...

Okay. So since I got to lower the rear end as well to help with weight transfer, how much would a pair of 2" drop springs cost for the rear if I was to buy new ones and not get them off ebay?
And for the rear, is the springs all I need or is it going to be like the front where I got to buy other parts?

[mikey882]

Oops

[oldblue1968chevy]

drop block and cut coils=happy me and still fat wallet

[CC69Rat]

The rear is the easy part. The only thing a 5in drop would make me consider is an adjstable track bar and the shock relocators.. might help it hook up better too.

Also pay close attention to pinion angles in drag racing / hard acceleration you might be popping u joints (?)
Posted via Mobile Device

[TheSuspensionSource]

It's a matter of opinion. Cutting springs typically stiffens the ride. In some cases too much.