1947 S10 4x4 Blazer swap

[msaintg]

Hi, new member here with a new project. I have never done a project such as this before, but I decided it was about time. So I jumped in with both feet back in Feb. of this year by buying a 1947 3100. It is in pretty bad shape, mostly complete (minus engine). It spent most of its life in Sho Low AZ (where it does snow). It is my goal to do an S10 swap using everything I can from the donor vehicle. I want the 4.3L V6, auto tranny combination, as new as possible. Now I am a stubborn and impatient sort, so after looking for a running S10, single cab, long bed with the V6/ auto combo for over two months on Craigs list with no luck, I purchased a 1996 S10 Blazer 4x4 instead. I had found a lot advice on using the S10 long bed, but had seen nothing about anyone using a Blazer frame or a 4x4. So I thought, what the heck, how different could it be…. Well, needless to say… a 4x4 Blazer is a LOT different. Did I mention I am stubborn? Well, I am determined to make this work… here is what I am starting with:

[msaintg]

I need to keep this project on a very tight budget, but fortunately, I have lots of time. The first step was to rip everything apart to see what kind of a mess I got myself into. It only took 6 hours to completely dismantle the 1947 and another 18 hours to get the Blazer torn down the drivetrain.

[mknittle]

Looks like you are moving right along. This is going to be interesting.

[msaintg]

The first thing I noticed was there was a lot of rust in the bed of the truck so replacing the wood floor was going to be expensive. I also noticed the Blazer frame was bent from being rear ended… that would have to be fixed first. I determined that I would have to lengthen the Blazer frame 9”. As luck would have it, I decided to lengthen the frame right where it was bent. Note: the Blazer frame is boxed all the way to the rear cross support (where the shocks mount)… that is where it was bent.

[msaintg]

By March 19th I had the frame lengthened 9”, front horns and body mounts cut off, and moved the rear axle mounting point back 9” (which also moved it up 3”)

[msaintg]

Moving on to building cab mounts using the top part of the Blazer mount and scrap metal from the 1947 frame.

[msaintg]

I decided it would be way cheaper to replace the wood bed with an S10 bed floor pan. Next I fit a new floor pan in the bed and started on the new bed mounts. Wow that was so hard trying to hold everything in place and measure and then weld in place those mounts.

[msaintg]

March 31 I fit the inner fenders. The 4x4 S10 Blazer has the top A arms on the side of the frame instead of on top. I think it is going to be nicer down the road to have the wider stance in front. Most guys cut the frame horns ½” past the last steering box bolt, but I lest 2” there because of how the anti sway bars mounts on the Blazer. I just trimmed the inner fenders around the frame there.

[msaintg]

This truck did not come with a radiator in it, so I didn’t know how it was supposed to look and fit. I bought a radiator online for a stock 1947 truck and found it was 2” too tall because of interference with the steering box. I decided to just put it in at an angle so that the base was just in front of the steering box. I guess I will find out later if that was a good or bad idea.

[msaintg]

Problem…. I don’t want the 4x4 stuff. I thought I could just pull the differential out and put 2x4 spindles on it…. Wrong! Totally different spindles. Hummmm, plan B, cut the spindles off of the old axles. Whoo hooo, works great. I also moved the front motor mounts back 5”. Like I said earlier, I am doing this on the cheap, so I literally ‘moved’ the mounts instead of buying or fabing up new ones. The first pic is what the spindle looks like installed.

[msaintg]

When everyone else (the smart ones) went out and bought the right parts, I on the other hand was determined to make the Blazer gauges, steering column and brake assembly work. Wow, what a pain that was getting the Blazer brake assembly cut out and modified to work under the dash. And that stock dash had to go.

[msaintg]

Turns out it is not as simple as I had hoped to remove the transfer case from the transmission. You can't just remove the transfer case and put a new tail stock on the end of the transmission. You have to take the transmission all apart and replace the output shaft. Shoot! Well, plan B, leave the transfer case in place (expensive spacer) for now and remove it later down the road when I need to rebuild the transmission. So I had to modify the cross support to clear the transfer case that is now moved 5” back. Here is a pic of the body and bed mounts too.

[msaintg]

OK, back to the dash. Now I know you guys have been looking at all the previous pics and were thinking… wow, what crappy looking welds. Well, just remember that I am a total amateur with very limited tools. I have zero sheet metal experience or tools either. With that said, I am pretty damn proud of how this dash is turning out. What I lack in skill I make up for in determination.

[msaintg]

May 12th, working on closing in all the holes in the cab. Wow, can’t believe there is over 50 holes in the firewall. Closed in both cowl vents and fitted the Blazer gas cap cover into the fender.

[msaintg]

Next to make the seat frames so that I can mount, you guest it, the Blazer seats.

[msaintg]

Well, you now up to date. Grand total so far: 170 hours labor, 15 weeks, $500 for truck, $1000 for Blazer, and $200 for radiator. Oh, somewhere in there I spent $50 on motor mounts and $80 on lowering blocks for the back and lower keys for the front.

[NBBAZ]

Interesting thread! I'll be watching this one. Please post more pictures and info as you go. Good luck!

[waybad]

nice build!

[Daze57]

great work so far !

[msaintg]

Worked on the seat belt mounts. I also cut and welded the gas fill tube in a different position so that it lined up better with the fender. Ya the pic shows the fuel line passing through the frame... only place to put it. I could not run the filler tube above the cross support because it would get squashed by the bed and I could not run it below the frame because it would be too low going into the gas tank. It is actually going to be a little low already. I will box that in later.... all's good. Mounting the upper shoulder nut was pretty easy but mounting the lower part required me to have to build a box and weld it in to properly recess the unit. I screwed up and welded the box together with the seat belt assembly installed.... the heat from welding melted it. Now I have to buy new seat belts. damn.

[Clay54]

I need your help!! Check your inbox, I sent you a message. Thanks, Clay

[msaintg]

Replaced the inner and outer cab corner this weekend. This was the worst of the rust on the cab. You can see from the first pic, this truck was about 8 different colors. The last coat was white house paint.

[90\87Formula]

subscribed.
what did you use to raise the Blazer body?

[msaintg]

just a floor jack. it was real scary. I later bought an engine hoist that worked real well to move the blazer body....I later cut the Blazer up into tiny pieces.

[Rednek13x]

Wow, great build, love what your doing using everything!