Thinking about building a 60-66 burb

[beanyard]

This is my first post in this part of the forum. I have a 59 truck but have been thinking of building a 60-66 burb. I know the 55-59 style well. What are the most desireable options for the 60-66 generation? Also, what are the pros of these builds. I heard that it is very easy to upgrade the suspension as up to 1987 will interchange. Is this true?
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[beanyard]

60 plus views and no replies.
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[beefshreadder116]

yes sir they all interchange with minimal work.

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[padresag]

it is not to difficult to upgrade . just find yourself a donor truck, which will give you complete frt end ,strg box and column if desired and p/b stuff
check the FAQ section above. it will be able to give you lots of answers. that way you do not have to rely on anyone replying. most info is there
welcome
ron

[MikeS.]

I have a 63 4-4 suburban that I put an 87 front end on, not hard at all.
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[gostranger]

take a look at my build it might give you some ideas!

[beanyard]

Thanks for the replies.
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[perro13]

Originally Posted by beanyard

Thanks for the replies.
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Desirable options imo would be calm shell (tailgate) set up, fac ac, 3 row seating. after that everything is pretty much the same or easily added.

[hemifalcon]

It all depends on what you want to use the truck for.. I plan on using my truck for the occasional haul once it's complete--I wouldn't want the clamshell doors and thus I like the barn doors in the back..
Are you looking for a 2WD or 4X4?
You may have to be a little more specific--but if you lookin the projects and builds-you'll see quite a few 60-66 Burbs under construction--some of which are mighty well done.

[beanyard]

I just looked at a 66 with barn doors. It is 2wd and is an original v8 with a 4 speed and a posi rear (don't) know the ratio. It had rusty quarter panels. Do they make patches for those?

I would like a 2wd that looks pretty much stock but has is lowered with white walls. I would upgrade to1987 stuff and put in an ls motor and electronic trans outfitted with a lokar style floor shift.
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[Brad54]

'60-'62 have the torsion bar front end, and the rest of the chassis is different too... it's narrower. This means the bumpers are unique to those years, because the bolts are in a different spot.
Suburbans have specific rear bumpers too--different than pick-up trucks, as there's no license plate area.
They also have the earlier drop-out center rear end, or the rare optional Dana 44.
The panhard bars and mount are also unique to the '60-'62.
The later front suspensions can be bolted in, but it's easier on the '63-up trucks, due to the frame being more like the later truck's frames.
The early trucks also have the hydraulic clutch set-up, which makes converting to a dual reservoir or power brakes an expensive pain in the ass. (I did it on my '61 though... it's a worth-while pain in the ass).
You can convert to mechanical clutch linkage with later parts, including bellhousing.
but you still have the big hole in the firewall for the clutch/brake two-chamber master cylinder.
In '63, they went to mechanical linkage with the fork on the driver's side, and the frame rails are the same height and width as the later trucks, so a later cross-member with disc brakes and sway bar will bolt in.
Out back, they went to the Chevy Truck 12-bolt rear end. The panhard bar and mount is, I believe, unique to '63.
The '60-'63 has the wrap-around windshield and "knee-knocker" cab. The dogleg under the A-pillar has been known to take out a knee of the unsuspecting.
The windshield is about $450 new, versus about $100-$150 for the '64-'66 "flat" windshield.
Smartest choice is to go with a '64-'66 Suburban--cheapest windshield, easiest chassis and suspension.
I went with a '61 because it's what I found and I liked it's looks... I wasn't looking for one when I found it, but am glad I have it--even if it is a lot more expensive than the '64-'66 Suburbans.

-Brad

[beanyard]

Brad,

Thanks for the awesome response.

Derek
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[Brad54]

If I were specifically hunting for a Suburban (or '60-66 truck), I'd get a '63... I love a wrap-around windshield... it seems to put them in a whole 'nother era. It's also great for driving, because there's no blind spots.
'63 chassis is easier to upgrade, and I'd eat the cost of the wrap-around glass.

-Brad

[beanyard]

I have looked at a lot of pics and learned about mechanical stuff too and seem to be gravitating toward a 63. I know where one is now but I may have to wait til spring. Hopefully it is still there.
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[Captainfab]

They don't make patch panels specifically for the Suburbans or Panels, but you can use the short fleetside patch panels. There are just some pieces that may have to be fabricated at the rear of the body.

Originally Posted by beanyard

I just looked at a 66 with barn doors. It is 2wd and is an original v8 with a 4 speed and a posi rear (don't) know the ratio. It had rusty quarter panels. Do they make patches for those?
I would like a 2wd that looks pretty much stock but has is lowered with white walls. I would upgrade to1987 stuff and put in an ls motor and electronic trans outfitted with a lokar style floor shift.
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Upgrading the '60-'62's to power brakes , either with an auot trans or manual trans is not difficult at all with the kits and parts I sell.

The '63 & '64 both use the long panhard bar. The '63 12 bolt has pressed on backing plates, which can complicate rear brake upgrades. The '63 & '64 12 bolts have 17 spline axles and spider gears, which add to the cost of the 5 lug conversion.

Originally Posted by Brad54

'60-'62 have the torsion bar front end, and the rest of the chassis is different too... it's narrower. This means the bumpers are unique to those years, because the bolts are in a different spot.
Suburbans have specific rear bumpers too--different than pick-up trucks, as there's no license plate area.
They also have the earlier drop-out center rear end, or the rare optional Dana 44.
The panhard bars and mount are also unique to the '60-'62.
The later front suspensions can be bolted in, but it's easier on the '63-up trucks, due to the frame being more like the later truck's frames.
The early trucks also have the hydraulic clutch set-up, which makes converting to a dual reservoir or power brakes an expensive pain in the ass. (I did it on my '61 though... it's a worth-while pain in the ass).
You can convert to mechanical clutch linkage with later parts, including bellhousing.
but you still have the big hole in the firewall for the clutch/brake two-chamber master cylinder.
In '63, they went to mechanical linkage with the fork on the driver's side, and the frame rails are the same height and width as the later trucks, so a later cross-member with disc brakes and sway bar will bolt in.
Out back, they went to the Chevy Truck 12-bolt rear end. The panhard bar and mount is, I believe, unique to '63.
The '60-'63 has the wrap-around windshield and "knee-knocker" cab. The dogleg under the A-pillar has been known to take out a knee of the unsuspecting.
The windshield is about $450 new, versus about $100-$150 for the '64-'66 "flat" windshield.
Smartest choice is to go with a '64-'66 Suburban--cheapest windshield, easiest chassis and suspension.
I went with a '61 because it's what I found and I liked it's looks... I wasn't looking for one when I found it, but am glad I have it--even if it is a lot more expensive than the '64-'66 Suburbans.

-Brad

Here is some info on front disc brake upgrades.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=367260

There are a few more threads in the '60-'66 FAQ index found at the top of the page.