Fusing the injector B+ wires ..?

[yossarian19]

So, I'm modding my 02 Vortec 4.8 harness.
I think what I see going on is that the power to the injectors is from the fuse box and they are switched on the ground side by the computer.
I want to put the driver's side injectors on one fuse and the passenger's on another.
So, do I strip a bit of wire off each injector's power (pink) wire & join them together, then from that gang of 4 to the fuse? Any suggestions about technique? I'm considering a soldered gang w/ one heavier wire going to the fuse & heat shrink to seal it up.
How did you guys do it?

[OldCreek]

Thats how I did mine.

It is a little more difficult to solder 4 wires onto 1 because of heat requirements. I'm not sure if other guys are running a BUS bar or something else to connect them all....

[Edge64]

I did mine the same way but it should only be 2 wires per injector bank so you should only have to bring 2 wires to each fuse.

[yossarian19]

They must have needed the OT when they built mine - I've got a pink wire running to each injector for a total of 8.
I bought a cheapo radio shack soldering iron and learned something. I eventually wound up with two gangs of four injector wires, each gang soldered to a single lead to the fuse. Two fuses, two gangs of four injectors, some heat shrink & call it a day.
It was challenging to solder with the Radio Shack cheapy iron that I had. I'm a newbie, so it probably wasn't just the iron. I think, though, that some of the difficulty was that all that wire (1/4" of total wire thickness) soaked the heat out of the iron before it all got hot enough to melt solder. So it took a while doing one wire at a time, accidentally melting another wire free while I worked, and going back over everything until it passed a tug test & visual inspection.
I'd reccomend something bigger than a 40 watt iron for this job - or use a crimp as the primary connection & then add solder to the crimp just for good luck.

[mej005]

I just did this last weekend and I soldered all four to the connector that goes to the fuse block, and I used the fuse block shown on lt1swap.com. I used an 80watt iron though, and didn't have a problem.

I'd have to look to be 100% sure but I have the pcm 12v constant on a fuse, pcm ignition switched 12v on a fuse, passenger and driver side injectors and coils on a fuse(4 fuses total), MAF on a fuse, fuel pump on a fuse and relay, and I think the transmission on a fuse. My block has 9 fuses right now and 3 relays. It wasn't that difficult, just draw it out on paper first and solder accordingly, because I didn't and had to redo some of the connections to fit my application.