1982 dash guages info

[ozbowhunter]

i have a 1982 gmc stepside and just got a 82 chevy suburban instrument cluster with a clock given to me will this work oer will i need to change anything?
any help will be appreciated

i just conected it up and have no lights and one bulb fitting is missing at the bottom of the speedo does this need a special fitting t oget lights working ? im all new to this so help is needed
the original dash had been cut up and two aftermarket guages fitted and they looked terrible also there where breaks in the circuit so it had to go

[ozbowhunter]

i just noticed it has a marking on the back PED 2 im thinking i should have a PED 3 can anyone confirm this ?

[ray_mcavoy]

What type of cluster was originally in your stepside?

If it was originally equipped with a gauge (not warning light) cluster then that cluster with the clock should plug right in and the only thing extra to hook up would be the separate wires for the clock.

But if your truck originally had a warning light type cluster then you'll have to re-pin the connector and change out the oil & temp sending units to make it work correctly.

That "PED" marking stands for Packard Electric Division ... that was the division of GM that took care of most of the wiring and related parts. I think those 2 and 3 numbers are just revision numbers on the printed circuit or something and shouldn't make any difference.

[ozbowhunter]

without sounding stupid how do i tell the difference ?
and if i have to repin is there a guide anywhere ?

[ray_mcavoy]

Originally Posted by ozbowhunter

without sounding stupid how do i tell the difference ?

Normally, you'd just look for the presence of factory gauges (instead of "GEN", "TEMP", and "OIL" warning lights) over on the left side of the cluster. But after re-reading your original post about the dash having been cut up and fitted with aftermarket gauges, I can see where this might be hard to tell. Can you post a pic or two of the old cluster?

Originally Posted by ozbowhunter

and if i have to repin is there a guide anywhere ?

The info in this thread should help --> http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=562958

It's about going from a warning light cluster to a factory gauge/tach cluster but the same info applies to the gauge/clock cluster as well.

With the info in that thread, you could take a look at the pinout of your truck's cluster plug and compare it to the factory diagrams and/or the ones motornut posted to see how your truck is currently wired ... and whether or not it even needs to be changed.

I also noticed in your original post where you said:

Originally Posted by ozbowhunter

one bulb fitting is missing at the bottom of the speedo does this need a special fitting t oget lights working ?

Below the speedometer is usually just an indicator light for 4-wheel drive and/or electric choke. A missing bulb holder (or burned out bulb) on these clusters will only affect that individual location and not the rest of the lights.

[ozbowhunter]

thanks ray for all your help
heres where im at now
i replaced the oil pressure sensor and the temp sensor with electrical ones as the previous had mechanical ones in place i connected up the wires i worked out are for them but i still have a few issues
when i pull on the headlights the right blinker light comes on there are no instrument lights at all and the fuel guage goes to full and i know its not i will study the post you directed me to and see what i can work out thanks again

[ozbowhunter]

new details
i now have the instrument lights working
but...... when i pull out the light switch the right turn light comes on
and the brake light is staying on at all times also the fuel guage moves straight to full (which i know it isnt) and the oil pressure goes over 60 as well any ideas where to look ????
and now the plug
pin 5 oil pressure dk blue is light brown
pin 7 fuel tan is pink
pin 13 seat belt pink is yellow
pin 17 brake black/tan is white x2
pin 18 fuel tan is pink x2

does any of this make sense to anyone

[ray_mcavoy]

Start by checking to make sure you have good grounds on the black wires that should be going to pins 3, 8, and 10. All sorts of strange things can happen with the cluster lights and gauges if there is a bad ground at any one of those pins.

I believe the pin-out stayed the same from 1978 up on this body style of trucks but GM changed the color coding on some of the wires sometime in the late 70's or very early 80's. What you posted seems to correspond with those changes. I'm guessing that you're looking at a slightly older year wiring diagram (I don't think hatzie has one scanned specifically for 82 in that link in the other thread I posted).

The gauge cluster pin-out and wire color code in your 82 should be:

pin1 = light green = headlight high beam indicator
pin2 = gray = cluster illumination lights
pin3 = black = ground
pin4 = pink w/black stripe = +12V switched ignition feed
pin5 = tan = oil pressure gauge sender
pin6 = pink w/black stripe = +12V switched ignition feed
pin7 = pink = fuel gauge sender
pin8 = black = ground
pin9 = dark green = temperature gauge sender
pin10 = black = ground
pin11 = light blue = LH turn indicator
pin12 = dark blue = RH turn indicator
pin13 = yellow = seat belt indicator
pin14 is empty
pin15 = dark blue = Choke indicator (this wire might not be present on all trucks)
pin16 = pink w/black stripe = +12V switched ignition feed
pin17 = tan w/white stripe = brake indicator
pin18 = pink = fuel gauge sender

Pins 7 and 18 are both wired together (one of those double wires on pin 18 loops back to 7). They did that so the same cluster plug will work with both the gauge cluster that has the big fuel gauge next to the speedometer and the tach/gauge clusters that have the small fuel gauge over where your new cluster has the clock.

The two wires going into the pin 17 brake indicator are because the indicator is dual purpose ... one wire leads to a pressure warning switch on the proportioning valve and the other wire leads to a switch on the parking brake ... so either one of them can make that brake light come on by grounding the tan/white wire.

[motornut]

yup i think wired it's the same as my 79

a idiot light setup has a thicker oil wire

[ozbowhunter]

thanks for the pics now i hope i can sort the little problems left with it will let you know how i go