Help: what is a good brand heater core?

[luvbowties]

I have replaced heater core twice in my '66 C10. It is a Spectra Premium brand--the only 1 sold by AutoZone, Advance, Rock Auto. They develop a leak, very slight(but I've never seen a "good" leak) where hose nipple is soldered onto tank. Used care installing 1st one to NOT over-stress applied force when installing core and esp. sliding on the hoses; used double-care on 2nd replacement!

Anyone else having this problem? They replace it w/out question, but I'd rather be working on something offering more reward. What brand have others had good service from? Where did you buy it? I'm using a 14# cap and if I find no other solution, I'm gonna try a lower psi cap, altho' I think 14# should be correct.

Thx for any known-working solutions/brands/advice.
Sam

[tincan1966]

It's sad to say, but in the current trend of manufacturing, the processes are getting cheaper, and quality suffers. Most of the repop cores are dip soldered.
Something to consider, do you have the heater hoses secured to the inner fender? I ask because if you do, that will help some,since the entire weight of the hose isn't hanging from the core.
Just a suggestion.

[Captainfab]

Also there is supposed to be a support under the heater core tubes. These often get left off when the core is replaced.

[Rich 5150 69]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Also there is supposed to be a support under the heater core tubes. These often get left off when the core is replaced.

Mine was never on my truck when bought, something to look for at the parts hunt or fab one up.

[1963c-10]

got my last one at napa....no issues
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[Rich 5150 69]

Someone here showed up with an aluminum core....anybody remember...? wonder if its anybetter...

[Rufton]

I got mine at advance about 5 years ago.
Nipple alignment was off so I broke out the propane torch and adjusted.
It was the smaller core.
I want the big delux like OEM.

[Rich 5150 69]

Originally Posted by Rufton

I got mine at advance about 5 years ago.
Nipple alignment was off so I broke out the propane torch and adjusted.
It was the smaller core.
I want the big delux like OEM.

Its all here in the heater thread except the aluminum core...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=heater+thread

[Captainfab]

I remember that.....I believe it was bought at NAPA. I don't remember who posted it though

Originally Posted by Rich 5150 69

Someone here showed up with an aluminum core....anybody remember...? wonder if its anybetter...

[luvbowties]

Thank you to all who responded, both with brand and precautionary ideas which I agree should be followed.

Sad to say, but the support ideas, both for hoses and for the internal brace for the nipples, had been followed: and still the 2 failures. I think I am going to lengthen the hoses even more AND go to a lower pressure cap.

Also, I intend to re-solder the one nipple connection which failed the 1st time IF it is leaking at the same place this time. ANYBODY EVER TRIED SILVER-SOLDER ON SUCH JOINTS? I have heard that AutoZone's lifetime guarantees will only replace SOME such parts once--yet at any time after purchase, regardless of time length. I'll soon find out for sure.

Thanks to all again. I enjoy reading the help, given both to me and to others. Lots of good--the best--info on this site!
Sam

[1963c-10]

Another option I did when I had my 63 w/deluxe heater that had the ranco heater control valve attached. The replacement cores are not reproduced. What I did was order a NAPA unit off the shelf with the same core size. Took the new core and the OEM Harrison core to my local heater/radiator shop and they swapped the OEM tanks to the new core. Was affordable and they also gave me a warranty on their work.

[Rufton]

Originally Posted by luvbowties

Thank you to all who responded, both with brand and precautionary ideas which I agree should be followed.

Sad to say, but the support ideas, both for hoses and for the internal brace for the nipples, had been followed: and still the 2 failures. I think I am going to lengthen the hoses even more AND go to a lower pressure cap.

Also, I intend to re-solder the one nipple connection which failed the 1st time IF it is leaking at the same place this time. ANYBODY EVER TRIED SILVER-SOLDER ON SUCH JOINTS? I have heard that AutoZone's lifetime guarantees will only replace SOME such parts once--yet at any time after purchase, regardless of time length. I'll soon find out for sure.

Thanks to all again. I enjoy reading the help, given both to me and to others. Lots of good--the best--info on this site!
Sam

I took a propane torch and melted the solder so the nipples are aligned in a stress free position. I may have added a little solder for kicks. It is critical that support does not fight or stress solder joint. Support or nipple may have to be modified to mate closely. Would be better to have no support than support that stresses joint. Did this a few years back and it's still ok.
Now, is that clear as mud

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by Rufton

I took a propane torch and melted the solder so the nipples are aligned in a stress free position. I may have added a little solder for kicks. It is critical that support does not fight or stress solder joint. Support or nipple may have to be modified to mate closely. Would be better to have no support than support that stresses joint. Did this a few years back and it's still ok.
Now, is that clear as mud

Thx, Rufton. Yep, I see what you are saying. And I have seen such an interference on a buddy's truck. IIRC, we relieved the support where it leaned hard against one nipple, but did not try to adjust the nipple itself. Sounds like your idea would work better AND I like how your way reinforces the solder joint.
Thanks a bunch.
Sam