Bleeding brakes. Disc/ Drum with prop valve

[Coach529]

Speedway front disc kit

Performance online dual master cylinder with Prop Valve.

http://www.performanceonline.com/194...t-Disc-Brakes/

Is there a procedure to bleed these? Came with nothing for instructions.

[sweet70beast]

If it is an underfloor model, which it looks like the best way to so it is to get one of those oil cans that you press your thumb on to make it work. Get a rubber hose to go over the hose from the can and the bleeder screw. I bled my 53 backwards and it stops hard. When I bled it the conventional way (from the master to the wheel) I could never seem to get all the air out.

[OrrieG]

Speed bleeders are the one person garages friend. They replace the bleeder with one that has a check valve. Crack it open and air or fluid come out when pressure is applied. When there is no longer pressure the check valve keeps air from coming back in.

Basic bleeding procedure is to bench bleed the mc by running hoses from barb fittings in the out ports back into the mc fluid and pumping with a screwdriver until all the air is expelled. Mount the MC and start slowing pumping, watching the fluid level so you do not introduce any air into the system.

As you pump the fluid will push the air to the wheel cylinder and calipers. If you have speed bleeders the air will be expelled. If not find a friend who can crack them when you push the brake pedal, and close before you release.

Once you start to get pedal pressure close all except the passenger back. pump up the pedal an bunch of times (20) making sure it comes all the way back up to work air toward the bleeder. Crack the speed bleeder and keep going until only fluid comes out then close it. If you are using the friend method hold pressure on the pedal as he cracks the bleeder. You should have a hose from the bleeder into a container of brake fluid. This will prevent sucking air back in if you release the pedal before he closes the bleeder. When it is cracked air will come out. Friend closes the bleeder and you pump the pedal some more. Repeat until all you get is fluid.

Move to the driver side rear, then passenger front and finally driver front. If you are lucky you now have hard pedal. Do not be surprised if you have to go back after driving for a while and get out any residual air that may be lurking in the system. Before you start make sure your caliper bleeders are on top, most are interchangable from side to side and if you get the bleeder on the bottom it is almost impossible to get the air out.

Once again consider speed bleeders, I credit them with saving my marriage.

[Coach529]

Here is what we experienced tonight.

Pulled fluid to the RR with a mity vac, then the LR. Then the RF and LF.

Then went back to the RR and pumped, held and released air until we got good fluid flow. Did the same on LR. The went to RF and could not get any fluid flow. Check continuity to ground on the Prop valve. Got path to ground.....meaning it is tripped.

How do I reset it?

[lazypineapple]

read here

http://www.classicperform.com/TechBo...t.htm#testprop

Originally Posted by Coach529

Here is what we experienced tonight.

Pulled fluid to the RR with a mity vac, then the LR. Then the RF and LF.

Then went back to the RR and pumped, held and released air until we got good fluid flow. Did the same on LR. The went to RF and could not get any fluid flow. Check continuity to ground on the Prop valve. Got path to ground.....meaning it is tripped.

How do I reset it?

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by lazypineapple

read here

http://www.classicperform.com/TechBo...t.htm#testprop

Thanks........found that in a google search!!

I order the tool from POL to keep the valve centered during bleeding.

[OrrieG]

Great link.