For Those of You Who've Done the S10 Swap - Box Height?

[jrdamien]

For Those of You Who've Done the S10 Swap, how have you gotten the bed to sit at the correct height? I just looked at one in progress (not the one I am thinking of buying but the same more or less) and it seems the bed would mount too high to sit right relative to both the cab and the correct ride height.

Can anyone tell me or redirect me to a thread that discusses it?

[av8tr33337]

It will totally depend on how high the cab sits off the frame. Mine sits about 4 1/2 inches off the frame (Cab mounts 3 1/2 inches high with stock S10 body mounts on top)

You are right. I will probably have to raise my bed floor a couple inches. Another option I've seen a few guys do is just drop the rear fenders instead. Then you will need to make a filler to go between your splash apron and the bed.

I just did a detailed explanation of how I located my cab. Here is the link.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=600931

Since it all depends on your cab height. That's kinda where I would suggest starting. I know there are some builds here that may address bed height specifically, but I'm not able to come up with the link at the moment. Maybe somebody will chime in.

I know it's not a direct answer to your question, but you kinda have a couple of hoops to jump through before you can set the bed height. Cab placement will dictate everything. You will have to get that mocked up, get your running boards lined up straight with the bottom of the cab and set the bed off of that. Make sure to keep the same rake with the cab door opening, running boards and bed sides. I used an angle gauge to set mine. I'm sure there are other ways to go about this. This is just one example. Even after all that there will probably be some tweaking required.

Hope this helps.

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by av8tr33337

It will totally depend on how high the cab sits off the frame. Mine sits about 4 1/2 inches off the frame (Cab mounts 3 1/2 inches high with stock S10 body mounts on top)

You are right. I will probably have to raise my bed floor a couple inches. Another option I've seen a few guys do is just drop the rear fenders instead. Then you will need to make a filler to go between your splash apron and the bed.

I just did a detailed explanation of how I located my cab. Here is the link.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=600931

Since it all depends on your cab height. That's kinda where I would suggest starting. I know there are some builds here that may address bed height specifically, but I'm not able to come up with the link at the moment. Maybe somebody will chime in.

I know it's not a direct answer to your but your question, but you kinda have a couple of hoops to jump through before you can set the bed height. Cab placement will dictate everything.

Hope this helps.

This helps a lot, thanks. I'd like to avoid either making the bed too shallow to be functional OR moving the fenders.

[av8tr33337]

I hear ya. Losing and inch or 2 out of the bed would not be a huge difference in my opinion.

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by av8tr33337

I hear ya. Losing and inch or 2 out of the bed would not be a huge difference in my opinion.

If it's just an inch or two, no, but if it's enough to make it not usable as a truck, then I'd just not do it.

[av8tr33337]

I just remembered probably the most important thing. Put the chassis on jack stands and make sure that it is level front to back and side to side before locating any of the sheet metal. I used the bottom side of the chassis as a reference because it is long and flat through the center section. I used a magnetic level and/or the angle finder mentioned above. As always this is just my 2 cents worth and there are 100 ways to skin a cat.

[ozzie50]

I am at about the same spot in my build. If anyone could provide (stock or s10 swaped) the distance from the top of the head panel to the cab belt seam that would help me out a lot.

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by ozzie50

I am at about the same spot in my build. If anyone could provide (stock or s10 swaped) the distance from the top of the head panel to the cab belt seam that would help me out a lot.

Approximately 9" from the top of the front bed panel to the seam where the top half and the bottom half of the cab connect, in the center of the back of the cab. av8r is right though, there is a sequence of mocking things up that will allow you to get it to look just right.

[mr48chev]

This one doesn't have a frame swap but shows you how the truck should look from the side to be proper.
Cole Porter's old truck:

Note a few things:
1. Very important. The top rail of the bed is on the exact same plain as the running board and exactly parallel with it.

2. the bottom front edge of the bed side just fits down to the "stock" filler panel between the bedside and the running board.

Another and maybe better example of having the bed sitting right.


Raising the bed and lowering the fenders along with putting in filler panels below the bed sides would look rather hokey in most cases and make the truck look all wrong.
one way to do it though might be to set the running boards a bit higher and closer to the bottom of the cab to allow you to raise the bed a like amount. You would probably have to trim the bottom edges of the front fenders but it would maintain the looks of the truck. Easy to do on the frame swap too.

If you have to raise the bed to clear the frame to get it to look righ you have to raise the bed to clear the frame. Loosing load capacity is just one of the hazards of doing the frame swap and outside of a pair old lawn chairs and a cooler and a duffel bag most guys could give a rip about load capacity after a frame swap.

If keeping the bed floor at original height is all important I'd say go with the stock frame and a crossmember swap on the front and don't lower the rear all that much. As in any modifications you have to decide what you are willing to give up for the look you want.