Heirloom '92 1500

[TexasEdition]

This is my '92 Silverado. My dad bought this truck brand new, and I inherited it when I was 16. I'll never get rid of it, and it was time for the 235,000 mile 305 boat anchor to come out. I put together a 5.3 with a mild cam, longtube headers, LS6 valve springs and a camaro oil pan. Nothing crazy.















I have all of the steering components along with the brake booster painted as well.




This is where I'm at. Most will never notice, but I shaved the humps where the overflow/coolant reservoir used to be and the hole where the cruise control comes through the firewall. Getting ready to put it all back together now.

[cableguy0]

Nice work. That Ls will be a night and day difference from that worn out 305 slug.

[Andy4639]

Good job. I to went from a 305 TPI to a 6.0 LSx motor.

[Clyde65]

I love this guy! motor in the kitchen!

[TexasEdition]

Thanks fellas. I'm excited about it. I'm starting reassembly this weekend. I forgot to mention I'm keeping the 5 speed manual. I'm sure I'll have to upgrade to a t-56 later. I was tired of being cold and wet out in the carport (not good for parts anyway) so inside it came. lol

[TexasEdition]

It's in!

[Dobok]

I am so jealous !! Can't wait to start mine !! Looking Good !

[cableguy0]

I assume you have an nv3500. That should last a solid 10-15 minutes. Good luck. I would have the t56 waiting before the first test drive.

[TexasEdition]

Originally Posted by cableguy0

I assume you have an nv3500. That should last a solid 10-15 minutes. Good luck. I would have the t56 waiting before the first test drive.

It's the Getrag, but yes, weak 5-speed. I don't drive like an idiot, and it's not a race truck. I'm not fortunate enough to have an endless supply of money or sponsors, so the t56 will have to wait.

[gagliano7]

Originally Posted by cableguy0

I assume you have an nv3500. That should last a solid 10-15 minutes. Good luck. I would have the t56 waiting before the first test drive.

That tranny is fine. I had it behind a 383 425 hp for many years and had no problems. Now i have it behind my 5.3 swap in my 1992 chevy pickup.If you do a ton of power shifting you will probably blow it up but i have done my fair share and it is still going strong.

[TexasEdition]

Getting close..

[Dobok]

Nice Job !! Looks Killer already !!! What a-arms are those--they look great all painted up !!!

[TexasEdition]

Thanks, bud. They are factory 88-98 1 ton arms. Have to slot and use the 1/2 ton ball joints in them.

[BR3W CITY]

I must say man, You really worked hard to keep things "clean" since you started with such a clean base. Nice work, and I'm hard to impress.

What is that thing on the pass firewall with all the wires going into it, the square plastic thing? Is it a wire block, or is it just a squarebody thing I haven't seen before.

[TexasEdition]

Thanks, man. I appreciate it. Your truck is killer, by the way. My goal was to be simple, clean, and detailed. The "thing" on the passenger firewall is where all of the wiring goes to the original '92 computer behind the glove box. My 5.3 computer will be mounted near the radiator.

[Zane M]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

I must say man, You really worked hard to keep things "clean" since you started with such a clean base. Nice work, and I'm hard to impress.

What is that thing on the pass firewall with all the wires going into it, the square plastic thing? Is it a wire block, or is it just a squarebody thing I haven't seen before.

It is a wire block. Very common on a GMT400 platform.

[TexasEdition]

Well, started it by jumping the starter.. (I forgot to plug the clutch start switch back in) and let it run for maybe 20 seconds since I didn't have coolant in it. Plugged the switch back in and now I have no spark. Any ideas?

[Houston Ben]

Nice build, sorry I can't help with your problem but I do have questions for you. What engine cover do you have on and what A/C set up do you have?

[Houston Ben]

Dbl post....

[BigDan3131]

You probably shouldn't have wrapped your headers if you plan to DD this ride. In wet or high humidity conditions they will sweat and start to rust out faster.

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by TexasEdition

Well, started it by jumping the starter.. (I forgot to plug the clutch start switch back in) and let it run for maybe 20 seconds since I didn't have coolant in it. Plugged the switch back in and now I have no spark. Any ideas?

If it starts by jumping the starter, but won't start with the key, it sounds like you're loosing power in the crank position. You need power in both crank and run positions. What wire do you have powering up your 5.3 harness? Should be the wire that originally went to your 305 distributer.

[TexasEdition]

Originally Posted by Houston Ben

Nice build, sorry I can't help with your problem but I do have questions for you. What engine cover do you have on and what A/C set up do you have?

It's just a factory "hat style" cover that came on 5.3 and 6.0 from around the 03-06 year models. I shaved the Vortec logo off of mine. Also, I'm running the Dirty Dingo A/C mount with the factory R4 compressor. I now have everything hooked back up. Lines up perfect.

[TexasEdition]

Originally Posted by BigDan3131

You probably shouldn't have wrapped your headers if you plan to DD this ride. In wet or high humidity conditions they will sweat and start to rust out faster.

It's not a daily driver. If it gets driven in the rain, it will be an accident.

[TexasEdition]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

If it starts by jumping the starter, but won't start with the key, it sounds like you're loosing power in the crank position. You need power in both crank and run positions. What wire do you have powering up your 5.3 harness? Should be the wire that originally went to your 305 distributer.

The only reason it wouldn't start with the key is because I had the clutch pedal safety switch still unplugged. Everything, including the PCM had "key on" power when I turned the key into the "on" position. I'm powering the PCM from an adequate 12V Key hot source.

[ls1nova71]

[QUOTE=TexasEdition;6523746 Everything, including the PCM had "key on" power when I turned the key into the "on" position. [/QUOTE]

But does it have power in the "crank" position? Some ignition sources will have power in the "on" position, but will loose power in "crank". If you have it hooked up to one of those, then it wouldn't loose power jumping the starter, that's why I thought you may be loosing power.