All this talk about cams......

[ls1nova71]

So I'm really starting to think I need to put a cam in my 2wd Blazer project! But here's my issue. I'm not sure where to start on going about picking the right one. I've done many engine swaps and more LS swaps than I can seem to remember, but I've never been inside of any of them. I understand the basics of cam specs, but don't have any experience on how to pick the best one for my application. My engine is a 2006 LQ4/4l80e with about 110k on it. I have a 3:73 rear gear and will most likely be going with a set of Doug Thorley headers. I would also like to keep the torque converter that's in the transmission right now, so is this possible, or will I really be hindering myself with it? Anyone with any recommendations on a cam brand and/or specs?

[softballnrd27]

Get with Martin @ Tick Performance or Geoff @ EPS(you can also find them on ls1tech) they can guide you in the right direction. You will get the most out of the swap if you get a custom grind vs off the shelf.

[68Stepbed]

You better plan to go with a stall converter if you plan to change cams. LSx engines really like stall converters with larger cams. don't worry about how deep the stall is because you have a lockup system to lock the converter at highway speeds. Also plan to change valvesprings. Stockers don't do well past 5200 rpm.

[jamesjones]

Originally Posted by softballnrd27

Get with Martin @ Tick Performance or Geoff @ EPS(you can also find them on ls1tech) they can guide you in the right direction. You will get the most out of the swap if you get a custom grind vs off the shelf.

This. You may want to have the Guerra Group design one for EPS to grind for you. That's what I plan in doing.

[softballnrd27]

Pat G is another very good tuner/cam spec guy. I couldn't think of his name earlier, he uses EPS designed lobes. Super73 knows his stuff too. I've had a few conversations with him as well as Pat G and Martin.

[BR3W CITY]

Pats a good guy, tho he has done so many custom cams that they really aren't custom anymore haha. Everyone and their dad has had him spec a setup. I gotta respect the guy tho, usually pretty open with sharing his #'s instead of making "mystery cams"

I have a cam from TSP. I liked their customer support, had seen their cars and met them in person, and they offered a nice deal on the full setup with rods etc.

As for the converter, you might want to switch it out. I didn't go with a high enough stall as it was, and I know I'm leaving a few horses on the table, especially running a bigger cam but staying on the truck intake and manifolds. The 'verter would help me use a little more of what I got.

[ls1nova71]

I was kind of afraid I would need a stall too. So does anybody have a rough guess on how much a cam, the valve train upgrades and a stall would cost? This might be all more than I want to spend, since I'm already in it a couple grand with the engine trans and headers.

[softballnrd27]

Depends on the quality of the converter you get Circle D is about $1100 for multidisk, cam $400ish, Springs up to $250, Pushrods $100 and you can add about $150 in misc stuff to be safe(gaskets, ls2 timing chain, balancer bolt, etc.)

[BR3W CITY]

You can get some very nice cam kits from TSP that come with PRC Dual valvesprings (if you need something that tough, otherwise you can select a single spring) and hardened pushrods to whatever length you need and it usually runs about $630. Its a few bux cheaper than piecing it together.

The stall can go from 600-1200, depends on the brand, stall, and what exactly you get made. I have a 3 disk and its about $875

[68Stepbed]

Unless you just HAVE to buy new, you can get good used stuff in the classifieds at www.ls1tech.com

[dec010974]

Ls1nova71, it's been a while since I read a good build thread. The 2 wheel drive project is a great candidate. All I can say is subscribed. So it's official, you know have a build thread mr. Ls1nova71. Lol.

[ls1nova71]

I don't see me spending another 2k on a cam and a stall, so I'm thinking I'll just get a cam, the DT headers, have it tuned and see what happens. If I'm leaving a little power on the table, I can live with it. This isn't a truck I'm going to go out and beat the hell out of, it's going to be way too nice for that. I just want a little more power over a stock LQ4 and decent sound. So I guess I'll call some cam companies and see what they say.

Originally Posted by 68Stepbed

Unless you just HAVE to buy new, you can get good used stuff in the classifieds at www.ls1tech.com

I've looked on there, but haven't been able to find anything, but that could be because I don't know exactly what I'm looking for.

Originally Posted by dec010974

Ls1nova71, it's been a while since I read a good build thread. The 2 wheel drive project is a great candidate. All I can say is subscribed. So it's official, you know have a build thread mr. Ls1nova71. Lol.

I may do a build thread a little later on when it's further along. Right now it doesn't seem like I've got much done on it. I'm in the beginning stages of putting the frame together.

[dec010974]

And you can always start at the frame build. I appreciate any knowledge you throw my way. For starters I've saved a few of your build ideas on a flash drive especially the stock tank sump, battery tray change over and the fuel line idea. I plan to build a frame for a rat rod some day. But day care and college tuition has put those ideas away for a couple of years. I think your smart ls1nova71. Share the info. I know I could use it.

[jamesjones]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

I don't see me spending another 2k on a cam and a stall, so I'm thinking I'll just get a cam, the DT headers, have it tuned and see what happens. If I'm leaving a little power on the table, I can live with it. This isn't a truck I'm going to go out and beat the hell out of, it's going to be way too nice for that. I just want a little more power over a stock LQ4 and decent sound. So I guess I'll call some cam companies and see what they say.
I've looked on there, but haven't been able to find anything, but that could be because I don't know exactly what I'm looking for.

I may do a build thread a little later on when it's further along. Right now it doesn't seem like I've got much done on it. I'm in the beginning stages of putting the frame together.

I'm kind of in the same boat. I want to do a cam since the engine is out but then I think compression would be a bigger boost so that means different heads. Then I'll be maxing out the injectors so that means new injectors. Then it could use a stall since my stock one is 1400-1600 RPM. (At least that is cheap though since it's a TH350) It really starts to add up.

In my case my engine has super low miles so it hasn't even really been broken in. I'm thinking I may just do DTs, stall, tune and call it a day...until tax time next year...

[Jmiller022]

Im running a comp xr259hr 206/212. Great seat of the pants diff and on the stock converter. Just get some o the blue z06 springs (about $75) and some tsp 7.4" pushrods and your good to go and it ha a nice lope to.

Also Id shy away from used cams, you can get screwed over easily. I have been before. Actually got a bad cam and the manufacturer was going to warranty it but since I wasnt the original purchaser they couldnt.

[Robznob11]

there are many options that don't require a stall, they will be better with one but don't require one. about as large as you can go is a 224r or the likes on a 114 lsa, as for me I have a scogging dicky z+221 witch is about the same duration but less lift and it sounds good. these cams will put you in the 350-390 whp range depending on how good your setup is. heck some stock zo6 vettes lay down 400 to the wheels and these cams are just a step above those with a way better sound. here is a sound clip at idle. not radical but there! http://youtu.be/XGpzf7mNJxs they do give you a nice fat tq band! and everything you pick up with the cam will be usable!

[Robznob11]

Originally Posted by Jmiller022

Im running a comp xr259hr 206/212. Great seat of the pants diff and on the stock converter. Just get some o the blue z06 springs (about $75) and some tsp 7.4" pushrods and your good to go and it ha a nice lope to.

Also Id shy away from used cams, you can get screwed over easily. I have been before. Actually got a bad cam and the manufacturer was going to warranty it but since I wasnt the original purchaser they couldnt.

I got my cam used with 4000 mi on it. I thought I got screwed but not so I sent it to cam motion and they polished it for free and it looked like a new cam when I got it back. if you look it over good!!!! its pretty hard to get screwed on a cam. just make sure there are no nikcs or chunks out of it and make sure if you can see a lifter wear pattern on it, that you cannot hang a nail on the edge where the lifter has ridden. also look for roughness on the lobes. looks like tiny pot holes. but even these can be polished out most times. it should be straight because it would take a hard hit like from a rod to bend an ls cam!. be aware some discoloration will be present but usualy is nothing unless you see blue and purple hues on one spot that would be heat. all and all tho . I paid 140 for my cam 30 buck shipping to have it polished and made new. brian tooly is the best place for pushrods period 95 bucks shipped. and I bought prc 1518 springs off of ebay brand new for 100$ you will need 40 bucks worth of gaskets and lock tight. and about 70$ of tools for the swap. shoot me a pm if you want the cheapest sources for the tools. its about a 8 hr job and anyone can do it. thinking about the process is far worse than actually doing it. its cake!!! I would stay away from ls springs period they look attractive at 75 bucks but are not adiquit for aggressive lobes at all and are good for .570 lift (like a ticking bomb) look and find some .600 lift aftermarket ones. worst case senearo get the trickflow ones for 130 new they are comp 918s rebranded. but my self I would go prc or pac

[BR3W CITY]

I'm curious about the bad cam as well. It HAS happened, but 80% of the time its not really bad. Unless the lobes have been flattened, not a ton to break.

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by Robznob11

there are many options that don't require a stall, they will be better with one but don't require one. about as large as you can go is a 224r or the likes on a 114 lsa, as for me I have a scogging dicky z+221 witch is about the same duration but less lift and it sounds good. these cams will put you in the 350-390 whp range depending on how good your setup is. heck some stock zo6 vettes lay down 400 to the wheels and these cams are just a step above those with a way better sound. here is a sound clip at idle. not radical but there! http://youtu.be/XGpzf7mNJxs they do give you a nice fat tq band! and everything you pick up with the cam will be usable!

I do like the way your truck sounds, but wonder how much sound ill lose by putting full exhaust on it. I talked to Tick, and they were saying I should stay down around 219. Not sure what I'm going to do. I just can't justify an $1100 triple dics stall converter. I've been looking for a used one, but everyone has 4l60e stalls, but nothing for the 4l80e. I have even considered swapping to a 4l6 since I can get a trans and stall for just the price of the 80 stall and its not like I'm going to be drag racing it.

[Robznob11]

I get the question all the time if im running open headers and tho my exhaust is dumped before the axle I do have a full 3" exhaust, x pipe and dual summit turbo muffler.

[littlevictories]

dumb question (DQ)

anyone know if harold from ultradyne is still making cams? his ramp profiles were the s*** back when I messed with solid lifter big blocks. cool dude too.

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by littlevictories

dumb question (DQ)

anyone know if harold from ultradyne is still making cams? his ramp profiles were the s*** back when I messed with solid lifter big blocks. cool dude too.

Never worked with him but he's BulletCams now, at least from what I can tell.