Ramblings on what I've learned tuning a Weber 32/36 Progressive DGEV Carburetor

[Sharps40]

The Weber 32/36 DGEV (electric choke) progressive two barrel I’ve installed on my 250 I6 C10 has taught me a low about carb tuning.

For instance, in driving it reminds me of fuel injection so far as responsiveness is concerned; call its function crisp and immediate. For starting, hot or cold, it’s instantaneous and no cycling of the gas pedal is ever required. I usually short cycle the pedal the instant the engine catches to set choke at fast idle when cold, and do the same when the engine catches to smooth it out when hot. Other than that, it settles into a perfect smooth idle every time. It wants more timing, especially with the electronic ignition and I’ve learned, mine seems best timed all in by 3000 or 3500 rpm and let the initial fall where it may. (I run ported vacuum to the advance from the S-port of the carb….no vacuum to the advance at idle when the butterfly is set correctly – that is, as close to closed as possible.) Points dizzy or different vacuum can, different HEI mechanical curves may dictate different timeing than what I rely on.

I’ve tuned it to idle hot and smooth as low as 350 rpm but set it for 500 to 550 rpm as this is the tipping point where the 12SI alternator provides enough juice to power the lights with no flare up on acceleration.

When adjusted well, it idles impossibly quiet and smooth. Response on the main is crisp and immediate. The secondary comes in when the pedal is smoothly pushed with noticable power building smoothly to WOT. Slam the pedal to the floor in any of the lower gears and the secondary literally roars into action with no hesitation. Slam in the secondary in OD and the power builds firmly and smoothly, not quite a passing gear but ya get from 55 to 70 faster than ya'd think ya could: Passing ain't hard to do.

I love the electric choke, set properly, there is no warm up period. Start the truck down to 15 F and go drive, just like fuel injection. I love it so much that the cable is likely to go soon and hopefully the knob gets reused for some form of wiper delay.

Adjustment of the linkage is crucial, the only accurate way I’ve found to make sure the secondary is full open at Wide Open Throttle is to look into the throat while someone else cycles the pedal.

Spend a few minutes doing a thorough vacuum leak check. It’s imperative….I found the Weber can be jetted to compensate for and run superbly with an upside down (large vacuum leak) PCV valve. Even with that fine performance, it runs much better jetted leaner on the idle/transition with no leak!

As for jetting, there are 6 jets to play with. Two outside, 4 inside but I’ve only needed to work with the fuel jets…..i.e. I find no need to change out the 2 air jets or their respective emulsion tubes. Naturally, the number and location of the jets allow tuning of all four performance circuits, idle/transition, main, secondary and WOT, not really possible with a single barrel Rochester or Monojet.

What we think of as the screw for the idle mix jet is simply a flow adjustment…..changing the amount of emulsified fuel from the main jet and air corrector/emulsion tube up or down. The ideal range for this screw/jet on a stock 250 appears to be a 60 jet adjusted for 2 to 2.5 turns out (rich) from closed. Adjustment of this screw/jet combination has a dual function. It rapidly changes hot idle speed (main butterfly nearly closed) and the quality of idle. The setting is called lean best. i.e. fastest and smoothest. I do this adjustment by ear listening to flow thru the carb and by feel, arm on the valve cover. When right there is NO lean idle putt putting every few seconds. Just perfect smooth idling of the engine and the sound of the flow in the carb is equally smooth, no occasional slurping.

What I think of as the idle speed screw is simply an adjustment of the lower main barrel butterfly. Ideal range of adjustment is between 1 and two turns from first contact with the linkage….tiny changes of this screws position are used to fine tune the hot idle speed AFTER the idle mix jet is properly tuned. The goal is to keep this screw turned in the least amount to achieve idle speed thus the lower main barrel butterfly is kept as close to closed as possible. The idle then draws NO air thru the main barrel, taking all of its fuel/air mix thru the idle port below the butterfly. Screw this in more than two turns and the transition port is uncovered and the carb/engine does not run as responsively or efficiently.

Another screw is hidden on the bottom of the weber, adjacent to the secondary throttle butterfly linkage. Typically this butterfly is set fully closed, so as not to incur a continuous vacuum leak while driving on the main. (The secondary begins to open at about 2/3 throttle). However, even this can be slipped open a smidge if you have a hard to cure lag when bringing in the secondary quickly. But, I’m finding that leaving this screw alone and hence the secondary butterfly fully closed prior to 2/3 throttle has produced very satisfactory transition into the secondary with no “dead air” related bog.

The old Rochester B and Monojets on these engines were about 300 cfm. The DGEV is a bit larger at about 325ish, depending on which arguments ya listen to. The feel is defantly different. Again, perhaps a bit less power on the main, (smaller main barrel/less CFM for 90% of the driving) but considerably more responsive and better fuel mileage than a large throated one barrel carb. The difference being, if I understand it rightly, a better signal to the weber main barrel since it’s effectively a smaller straw. (i.e. the large single barrel of the Rochester/Monos getting best signal at high speed but sacrificing performance in the normal driving range, almost like the carb is too big for lower rpm performance.) The one barrels seemingly full power available all the time but with a compromise on drivability at anything like normal off highway rides.

From the factory mine came jetted as follows:

Idle Mix Jet: Large Body #60 (Larger # = Richer)
Idle mix screw: 2 turns out from closed
Idle speed/butterfly screw: 1 turn in from first contact with the linkage
Secondary Mix Jet, Small Body #55 (there is NO adjustment screw for this bottom of the secondary jet) (Larger # = Richer)
Primary Barrel Main Jet: #140 (Larger # = Richer)
Secondary Barrel Main Jet: #140 (Larger # = Richer)
Primary Barrel Air Corrector Jet: #170 (Larger # = Leaner)
Secondary Barrel Air Corrector Jet: #160 (Larger # = Leaner)

With minor tweaking of your timing and carb (primarily the idle mix and butterfly screws), the 250 runs very well on the main as set up from the factory.

As myself and another member found out, the secondary will need some tuning in the form of jet changes to run well on the 250.

[Sharps40]

Held for: Gaskets, bolt on, adjust linkage, set choke butterfly but not choke screw.

Number one recommendation….get your new Weber from someone who knows them well and will talk to you on the phone and via email during the setup and tuning process. I recommend Mr. Langdon, Stovebolts Engine Company. The free technical expertise and those several Sunday afternoon calls from him were invaluable as I learned how to install and tweak this most adjustable of all carburetors.

Most of us won’t be milling the manifold off and hogging it out to two barrel configuration (for direct mount to the mainfold) so, the adapter, 2 to 1 type is required. (Estimates of power gained are about 5% on the adapter, up to 15% or 20% if mounted on a manifold modified to true 2 bbl throat.)

In any event, use the adapter and mount the carb Bowl Forward. Forward mounting will ensure the main jets do not become uncovered in heavy turns or grades. (Not really a problem for us but talk to the Jeep Guys and they’ll tell ya, mount it wrong on the 258 jeep and when yer getting kinda vertical ya may stall with a sidewise mounting of the bowl.) Besides, bowl forward and yer going to be able to use your factory linkage with almost no modification! This in and of itself is strong incentive to mount bowl forward even though that puts your idle mix/flow screw and butterfly/speed screws facing the valve cover and a bit inconvenient to access.

Once you have the package, check out the gaskets for the adapter and carb base. If the adapter to manifold gasket is thin, toss it and get the thick gasket from yer local parts house, the ¼” thick one that came on the old 1 Barrels originally….its a decent heat insulator.

If the carb base gasket is slotted….toss it and purchase a true Weber gasket or do like I did, make your own. The slots for the carb screws in that adapter gasket are a lovely large vacuum leak maker. See the photos attached.

Toss the top gasket, slotted makes for big leaks. Make up or purchase a gasket like the blue one.



As needed, adjust the slots in the top of the adapter to match the bolt holes in the Weber base. Easy work with a file or dremel.

A file in a drill is a poor mans mill...just a kiss to make a whisker of room for each of the bolts that fasten carb to adapter.



Now the adapter is fitting the carb right.



Bolt the carb to the manifold, make up your linkage with the adapter Mr. Langdon provides and make sure the Accelerator Pedal will open the secondary fully. It will if you just twist the linkage, make sure the pedal doesn’t bottom on the floor though….adjust for more movement if it does. If the secondary doesn’t open fully you will NEVER get the carb to run to its full potential all the way up to WOT. See how simple the linkage is….your original linkage, an adapter from Mr. Langdon….all you do is bend a hook in the adapter shaft and hook it all up and start adjusting for best throw and smooth jerk free operation from fully closed to fully open.



See, now the bell crank and the vertical connector make a Vee and I'm not having to move the connector over center while pushing it up. Very smooth and easy. The parts are better situated to move in smooth arcs now.



Finally, rough in the choke. We can get it halfway set now and fine tune it later after the carb is running correctly.

Make sure the electric choke has 12V switched. Power only when the ignition is on. Back out the three screws on the choke ring. Back out the choke speed screw completely. Flip the throttle and the butterflys should close fully. Twist the choke until they open then twist till they close….you may need to hold the accelerator open just a touch to do this. The ideal setting is just the barest wisk of tension holding the butterflys closed….check that by poking the butterflys open while holding the the choke…..when satisfied with the tension, snug down the three screw on the choke ring. We’ll come back later and set fast idle speed with the choke screw when the whole carb is running good.

What I do is come back, engine cold, flip the throttle to get the fast idle screw on the second step of the choke cam. Turn the screw in to contact and one full turn. Start the engine....if the idle is too high or too low, shut down immediatly, adjust the choke screw. If ya diddle too long, the choke warms up and you have to wait till its fully cold again to finish. But in the end, I wait on this nice to have but not immediatly necessary feature until the carb is running perfect because the tuning/jetting just has to be accomplished first. i.e. you can nurse the idle till its hot and drive it daily so the final choke adjustment can wait and be the last thing you do.

[Sharps40]

Note: Don't rely on my jet numbers. Each engine combination is unique. You jet numbers will Vary!


Lets see....as jetted from Stovebolt Engine Company, your 230/250 should start and run. You may have to sit on it to get it warmed up. It'll probably be adjusted by the factory, 2 turns rich on the idle jet and one turn in from first linkage contact (throttles fully closed) on what we think of as the speed screw. This means, you have to baby sit. Once its warm, it should run low and slow and rough. Thats okay, as long as it idles. Mine ran low and rough at 250ish rpm warm.

Leave all the factory jets in there, they will run the vehicle fine once you get the idle tweaked. You'll rejet later for better performance, i.e. fine tuning.

You have to adjust the idle circut first. And remember, the goal is to have the butterflys as close to fully closed at idle as possible when finished. This ensures the idle runs on the idle port and does not uncover the transition port. If you absolutly have to to keep the engine running, you can turn in the idle speed screw up to two full turns from first contact....no more or you have a vacuum leak or your mix jet is too lean....more than two turns and the transition port is uncovered and you are ruining the signal to the idle port.

So, the choke is either fully open or you've wedged it open and the engine has been running for at least 30 minutes to warm up fully.

Start by turning the idle mix screw (bottom of the primary barrel) in or out. One way or the other....out should net you a higher idle speed and it should smooth out if your jet is about the right size. (for example, if your mix jet is way too rich, turning the screw in/lean may actually increase the idle speed. This situation will also occur after you have fixed a vacuum leak...essentially, you had it running rich to compensate for the leak and now that its fixed, leaner runs faster/smoother! Ask me how I know....) Its small adjustments of 1/4 to 1/2 turn and feel and listen for at least 20 seconds.....I feel the valve cover and listen to the carb...if the carb sounds like yer kids slurpin soda off icecubes, keep working, it should sound pretty smooth in the carb.... If you have to turn the mix screw out more than three turns, you have a vacuum leak or this jet is too lean. If you have to turn the mix screw in so its less than 1.5 turns out from the bottom, the mix jet is too rich.

Ignore the tachometer. Put your hand on the valve cover and feel and listen. Turn the idle mix screw slowely out and it should speed up/smooth out. Once you have the highest and smoothest idle by feel and sound....check the tach and adjust the idle speed screw (on the linkage) by small increments to get the hot idle speed you want. I go with 500 rpm.

Now....write down all your jet numbers, number of turns in or out on each of the two screws and your timing setting.

Next step is to adjust the main circuit.....you have adjusted for lean best idle above. Now that it starts and idles...Go drive. It should come off idle strong and fast and feel smoother than you thought possible. There should be no deceleration poppin in the exhaust and when you come back to idle it should be smooth as silk on a good motor.

The idle mix and transition port runs the motor up to about 1500ish rpm. See the instructions at Post #7 for ensuring your idle mix jet and speed screws are within the recommended range and to determine if you need to be richer or leaner or have a vacuum leak, etc.

On your drive, 1500 rpm and up and you are then driving on the main circuit and you spend most of your driving time on the main, on the primary side.

The factory primary barrel main jet is probably a 140 with a 170 air corrector. 90% of your driving is on this jet and in this RPM range. If the vehicle has no lean hole going into the secondary then drive it for a while, it should run fine. But you can increase your mileage. Use plug analysis or an O2 gauge and fuel mileage and feel to evaluate. I went down in main jet steps (do not mess with the air corrector jets...unless you are drag racing and running 5500 rpm all the time) to lean out the main till it felt a touch slow to build power around 2000 rpm and up....basically, I leaned down two steps from a 140 primary main jet to a 130 primary main jet untill I could feel a slight drivabilty issue on the main.

[Sharps40]

When I did the above, I found the engine fell flat going into the secondary. It was too lean overall with 130 on the primary main and 140 on the secondary main. And I had a huge vacuum leak....an upside down pcv valve....pretty much had me trying always to compensate for a big leak, fixing that alone made quite a difference in bringing on the seconday.


Remember, the Primary main circuit comes in and stays in untill you go back to idle (the secondary comeing in about 2/3 throttle or about 2300 to 2500 ish rpm)....so, you can either richen the primary main back up a step or if it runs fine on the main that way, richen up the secondary barrel main jet more.

Once the secondary starts to come on, about 2/3 throttle the Main is running fully engaged and the secondary continues to open/build all the way to WOT. If you havn't yet, triple check to make sure your gas pedal is actually opening the secondary fully. I did so at first by yanking the shaft, it was fully open.....but due to linkage adjustment, the pedal couldn't open it fully. Readjusting the linkage so the pedal actually opened the secondary throttle fully for WOT was another of those great Duhhhh moments in my adventures.

As a first step, I increased the size of the secondary barrel main jet, in increments prodeeding from 140 to 155...the lean hole when away but power was still slow to build in any gear and it was difficult to accelerate in OD all the way to WOT. So, to a 165 then to a 175. At 175 I was quite pleased. Plenty of power, no lean hole when opening the secondary. No black smoke and though I am still test driving this combination, mileage seems to be hovering in the 18+ mpg combined range. Pretty good for an old heavy truck shaped like a brick.

Again, plug monitoring, or O2 guage and fuel mileage calculations are indicated to protect your engine as you tune it in.

With the T5 I seem to be doing a lot of driving in each gear around 2200 to 2400 rpm. This seems to be just about where the secondary is cracking open a touch and richining the secondary has helped both the midrange power and response when going to WOT/maintaining uphill speed in OD.

But the combination of 130 primary main and 175 secondary main seems to be working well for me. I plan to drive it a few tanks, monitor plugs and mileage and then I'll jump into ignition timing. I'd like to see if it will continue to run well and efficiently with a bit less timing in it that I have it set for now.

[Sharps40]

I gave the electric choke about 84eleven trys to get it right. But here's what I learned.

Wire the electric choke to the ignition unfused terminal of the fuze box...i.e. power only when the engine is on.

Engine has to be cold to make adjustments....another Duhhh moment.

Cycle the throttle and hold it open just a crack to free up the choke linkage.

Loosen the choke cover screws and rotate the electric housing untill the butterflys just barely close....tighten the choke screws to hold the body in postion, butterflys barely closed.

Cycle the throttle again and adjust the choke cold idle speed screw till it touches the cam and go in about a half turn.

Start the engine...note the cold idle speed on the tach....shut down immediatly before it warms up and tweek the choke cold idle speed screw in or out to raise or lower the cold idle speed.

I like my cold idle to be about 800 rpm (500 hot).

[Sharps40]

After this you've probably driven a tank or two and are pretty pleased.

Take some time to readjust for lean best idle....the more often you do, the better you get at feeling and hearing the engine....I often find I am able to make slight improvements by trying again.

I'm sure in the future I'll install a wide band O2 guage. My plan is to install a new intake manifold with a better adapter/insulator for the carb and it will likely then call for leaner jetting. But I think an O2 guage is a right investment to protect the engine and to give instantaneous feedback on the changes I've made and to see the actual fuel air ratios in real time while cruising, coasting and under load.

As for the feel....the Weber seems complex but its very easy. Most of the jet changes and adjustments, even with removing the carb top ar 15 minute jobs and your are back out test driving the change. Everything is accessable from the top and adjustmens only require a screwdriver and a pair of needle nose plyers for that lil bugger of a clip that fastens the choke linkage together.

I highly recommend buying a range of jets with your carb. I could be quite happy with 15 mpg combined out of the box. But, 18.5 mpg combined and the greater responsiveness that comes with some tuning is really worth it.

[Sharps40]

Basic tuning steps....pretty much out there in this format from a number of sites and Weber 32/36 distributers. I am pretty religious about following these instructions and can show all the changes documented. I simply take 10 minutes to run a tweek, drive it a while and if not happy, change it. Its quick and easy with a structured approach and a small handful of jets.


Carburetor Set Up and LeanBest Idle Adjustment Base line Settings
Speed Screw 1 to 1-1/2 turns
Mixture Screw 2 turns
Your settings with engine running
Speed Screw______________
Mixture Screw______________

It is important to follow all linkage and lever installation instructions. The number one and two reasons for tuning errors are improper linkage installations and over tightened linkage nut, causing a binding in linkage assembly.

CALIBRATIONS MAY VARY DUE TO REGIONAL FUELS AND STATE OF ENGINE TUNE AND PERFORMANCE. POOR RUNNING QUALITY DOES NOT MEAN A DEFECT IN THE CARBURETOR. AN ADVANTAGE OF THE WEBER CARBURETOR IS ITS EASE OF ADJUSTMENT AND TUNING.

SET UP ADJUSTMENTS

Start set up by confirming carb base line settings. Do not depend on the factory delivered settings. Check them before the carb is installed.
All settings are done with choke disengaged or warmed up so that the choke is fully opened and disengaged. This is done on automatic choke carburetors by first opening the choke butterfly by hand and inserting a wood block or wedge of some kind to hold open while the linkage is cycled (linkage operated through its full movement ) to clear the choke cam. (You will hear a metallic click as the cam is released. You can check the fast Idle screw under the choke assembly to confirm that it is not in contact with the choke fast idle cam.)

Set the Idle stop screw (speed screw see fig 1) by backing out the Idle speed screw until it is not in contact with the throttle stop lever. Cycle the linkage again to be sure that the linkage comes to close without any assistance. (Checking for linkage bind) Now bring screw back into contact with the lever and continue to open or screwing in 1 turn no more
than 11/2 turns.

Set the mixture screw (see Fig 1) by first screwing in until the screw stops, bottoms out. DO NOT FORCE OR BIND AS THIS WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE SCREW AND IT’S SEAT IN THE BODY OF CARBURETOR. Back out the
screw 2 full turns.

TUNING
1. BE SURE TO FOLLOW THE NEXT INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PROPER SEQUENCE, DEVIATION WILL CAUSE THE CARBURETOR TO NOT FUNCTION TO ITS IDEAL SPECIFICATIONS AND MAY NOT PROVIDE THE PERFORMANCE AND FUEL ECONOMY AS DESIGNED.

2. Start the engine, the engine will run very slowly more like a tractor. As long as the engine stays running idle speed is not important at this point.
3. The first thing to do is not set up the idle speed, but to set the Idle mixture screw to lean best idle setting. First, turn in the mixture screw until the engine dies or runs worse, then back out the screw (recommend turning ¼ to ½ turn at a time). The engine should pick up speed and begin to smooth out. Back out ½ turn more, or until the screw does nothing or runs worse then turn back to the point where it ran its best.
4. Use your ear, not a scope or tuning instruments at this point. You want to tune the engine by sound. Adjust to best, fastest and smoothest running point.
5. Now that the mixture screw is at its best running location, you can adjust the Idle speed the screw. The screw will be sensitive and should only take ¼ to ½ turns to achieve the idle speed you like.
6. Check and set idle to your driving preference. Put the car in gear and apply slight load, (AC on) and set the Idle as you like it. Don’t set it too high, as this will cause causes excessive clutch and brake wear. The Idle only needs to be 7 to 900 RPM with light load or AC on.
7. Recheck timing and vacuum hook ups. Recheck mixture screw to lean best idle again. If all is still best and smoothest idle then confirm and note the final settings.
8. To confirm settings with the engine running. Start by screwing in the mixture screw and count the number of turns it takes to bottom out and note if the engine dies. If Idle Mixture screws are with in ½ turn of base line setting then all is well and have fun. Also check the speed screw and note how many total turns from initial contact. You may have opened (turned in) the speed screw. Your final setting should be under 2 full turns. Reset the screws (back in) to the best final settings (Per your notes) and go on a test drive and have fun. If the settings are other than described then you may want to recalibrate the Idle circuit (low speed circuit) to your engines needs.
This is done by following the rule of thumb BELOW.

Simple Rules for low speed calibration

If the mixture screw is more than 21/2 turns out turns then the Idle jet is too lean (too Small). When the mixture screw is less than 11/2 then the Idle jet is too rich (too large). These assumptions are based on the fact that the speed screw setting is not opened more than 11/2 turns. If the speed screw has to be opened 2 or more turns then this is also an indication of a lean condition usually requiring greater change. At times it may appear to be showing signs of richness or flooding it is really a lean condition. Please understand the need to keep throttle plate as near to closed as possible so as not to prematurely expose the transition holes. This is what causes the visible rich condition, and confirms the need to increase the jet size.

JET KITS are available if needed.

EXAMPLE
With the speed screw set at no more than two (2) turns in after contact with the stop lever; and the best idle occurring with the mixture screw set at 3 turns from bottom, indicates the need for a larger Idle jet. Achieving the best idle at under 2 turns indicates the need for a smaller idle jet.
The secret to understanding the critical nature of the carburetor set up and the advantages of a WEBER over other carburetors is the Idle circuit. Referred to as the low speed circuit by Weber, this circuit is responsible for 80% of the driving operation. This is the reason that the Weber should give a fuel economy improvement over most factory carbs along with significant performance gains. In the worst case you should not see a significant fuel economy loss over stock, while improving HP & Drivability.

The Weber Carburetor is a sequentially timed device to the motor like the distributor. Time taken in the setup will provide more fun later

[Softpatch]

Very good thread would like to add some weber 32/36 likes/dislike...Sp

[Sharps40]

Yep can do that. Gotta find morra my pics and finish workinout the other sections.

Quick and dirty then....mosta the likes will wind up bein above...

Dislikes....hmmmm....

Chasin down that percolation issue but that could happen wif any carbie.

Having to run it on an adapter. If I had a spare manifold I'd mount it direct even though that means turning the bowl 90 degrees to the DS fender and dealing with differences on the linkage and heavily modifying a manifold log with a mill or grinder and drill and maybe some weldin.

Lack of good looking air cleaners.

Having to use an odd size air cleaner, but least that'll be fixed soon...I can order K&N by size. Planning for a taller element in the same diameter and K&N will look better even dirty.

Mix and idle screws between the carb and valve cover necessitatin knees on the fender leanin over the engine with head jammed tween firewall and hood trying to aim the flashlight, manipulate the screwdrivers and wrenchs and not kick my horn off with my foot or get a body part jammed into the fan....

Inside adapter to manifold nut is hard to tighten unless ya thin down a 9/16 wrench to get in under the bump in the adapter or pull the manifold off the head.

Electric choke adjustment is so frackin simple that I screwed it up 174 times in a row.....now nearly one year later, it works perfect....I'll never adjust it again, ever, never, no frackin way no how....this is truly a set it and forget it part....heavens help me if it ever breaks.

Doesn't look like it'd be easy to rig up a transmission cable or kick down rod.....might have to go off the accelerator linkage for that.

[T2vigil]

Very good information. I have just installed one with a manual choke and all I have left to do is make sure the float is adjusted and it should start just fine.

[Sharps40]

Still workin on this thread. Got my notes at work...stuck at home working on muzzleloaders cause the roads are iced up. Maybe finish this one next week.

Meantime, I got mine dialed in pretty close on the jets. Main is perfect at all speeds and the secondary roars in like a Dragon when I stomp it in 1-4....in OD the secondary builds smooth power all the way to WOT with no hesitation. Prettymuch I'm done to fine tuning for mileage and max power at the top of the secondary. Once the weather breaks I'll start playing with a slightly leaner main jet an running the secondary main larger and smaller till I'm satisfied with WOT and pulling.

[Sharps40]

Weber 32/36 drivers.

I've thrown in what I've learned so far. If you have additions based on your experiences, shoot em to me and I can stick them in the right spot in red or you can elaborate further below.

As I learn more and for sure after I purchase the Wideband O2, I will update what I've written above.

For now, next Weber project is to get some isolation between the carb and the manifold...all that aluminum really pulls heat up into the fuel bowl. It runs great but regularly perks fuel about 20 minutes after shutdown.

[aclay17]

Thanks for this article! I just bought one and added it on my 250 in my '67 C10. Mine seems to be running pretty rich. I'm getting smoke out the tailpipes in a way that I have never gotten it before. I'm hoping adjusting it will work. I do have a question though what exactly does perking fuel mean? I plan on wrapping my carb in a insulator material heat shield and hopefully that will work. Thanks again!

[Sharps40]

Id forgotton bout this one. Then my membership expired making harder to edit. I should go back threw it .. gettin 18.5 mpg now

[scottofksu]

Excellent information! I have a Weber 38/38 on my MGB. While I have had some tuning issues, these are mostly due to the "off-year" model I purchased. (Their was a strike at the Italy factory for a couple years and production was outsourced and the model was slightly modified to fit available molds and machinery at the outsourced/offshore factory.)