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07-29-2014, 07:48 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Trenton, Nebraska
Posts: 77
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1948 3100 S10 Swap, new to me(newbie builder) some questions.
Recently purchased a 1948 chevy 3100 with an s10 swap completed by the previous owner. It's got a 350/350 combo, sitting pretty low on bias ply white walls. Will get some pictures up soon. Spent some time reading through builds here and doing some research on the internet of my own and have some thoughts and questions on a few things, also would like opinions. I definitely want to do this build right, and not cut any corners due to price of parts, of course I am on a budget and will have to save up for a lot of things, but that's just part of it.
First off, long term I would like to do an LS swap with a mild build. Just a cruiser with a good ride and some power, Not that it will be abused but i do like to have a little fun with my vehicles. It has 4 inch lowering blocks in the rear and springs cut down in the front. From what I've found drop spindles are the way to go, anyone have any brand or who to purchase from preferences? Also, I do like the look of the white walls, but really like boss 338 wheels, and would like to run a 20x8.5/20x10 combo. Backspacing on these is 5.239 inches and 6.225 inches respectively. Anyone with s10 swaps know how practical this is in the front? The back is doable with mini tubs I know, but also some questions there on axle width. My current rear has 4.10, so it needs changed anyways. I know a lot of guys run the 4x4 s10 rear because it is wider, but not sure that would be wide enough with the back spacing on the boss wheels, would love to not have to run spacers in the rear if possible. Also don't think long term that would be a viable rear end strength wise to hold up to more power, have looked at the s10 extreme rear's as well as ford 9inch but would like to keep the same 5x4.75 bolt pattern as well as upgrading to disk brakes. Any suggestions on wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface length? Also, would there be any practical/logical reasoning to do a 4 link/coil over set up on the rear as opposed to leaf springs? Not going to get crazy on the power, probably nothing over 400-450hp, just wondering if ride is way better/or durability..pros/cons basically. Think that's mostly it for now. I'm sure a lot of this I could eventually figure out on my own, but as you guys have been there done that it would save me a lot of time, as this is my first classic vehicle, will definitely be a lot of learning involved but I do want to do every bit of work I can. Turned this into a short novel, but thanks guys for your time reading and on any input it is greatly appreciated. |
07-29-2014, 11:39 PM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: West Plains, Missouri
Posts: 7,559
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Re: 1948 3100 S10 Swap, new to me(newbie builder) some questions.
First welcome to the site, don't know much about the S-10 frame stuff so I will let someone with more knowledge step up...Jim
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my build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=459839 Jimbo's long bed step build:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...t=464626<br /> |
07-30-2014, 12:06 AM | #3 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Trenton, Nebraska
Posts: 77
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Re: 1948 3100 S10 Swap, new to me(newbie builder) some questions.
Quote:
Trying to do my own research to avoid asking totally stupid questions, but I would certainly much rather affirm everything and hopefully avoid mistakes as I go. One other thing I forgot in my original post is, does anyone have dimensions of the rear window glass? My seal is missing the bead that goes into it locking the window in place, but also on a hunch that my rear glass is a replacement product and possibly a little on the small side. Once again, thanks for time and input, appreciate any knowledge. |
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