Just installed HEI and having touble starting

[whateverpratt]

Background: I have a 1963 C10 with a 230 that I haven't tuned in 10+ years. It ran fine, but high rpms suffered. It always started easy; all you had to do was bump the key for a second (maybe 2 or 3 if it was cold). I figured it would be an upgrade if I put an HEU unit on the truck. I got a complete setup (distributor, cap, wires, and coil) for $30. I installed it last weekend. It started right up and ran like a champ.

Problem: fast forward to today, and I'm having touble starting my truck. It started up fine when I went to put gas in it. After filling it up, the truck wouldn't start. I had to get a jump from friendly passerby. I drive the truck home, shut it off, and try to start it, but it does the same thing again. I turns over, but it doesn't sound like it's firing at all. I hook it up to my wife's car, and it starts.

I'm pretty clueless when it comes to electrical, but just the same I pulled out my multimeter and started measuring volts at different spots. My battery was around 12.5 (not running). With the key in the on position, the wire going to my coil read 12.4 (this wire is hooked to a terminal on my ignition that shows 12+ volts when the key is in the on position); however, when I had my wife crank the engine, the wire to the coil measured anywhere from 8-10 volts. I also measured voltage at the battery while my wife attempted to start the truck, and it measured about 10.7 or so during cranking.

I am assuming that voltage drop at the coil is my problem, and that the other battery provides enough voltage to keep the volts up at the coil to start the truck. BUT, I have no idea because I really don't know what normal is, and electricity is black magic. What I do know is that before the swap the truck started super easy, and now after the swap the truck has started cold a few times but refuses to start when warmed up unless you jump it. I'm very curious to see if it starts tomorrow without any assistance.

How do I fix this?

[T and S]

Have your battery load tested. It could be that your battery is just shot.

[VonDog]

X2 on the battery. Also, the new plug wires should be 8 mm at least. Make sure you have a Solid ground frame to motor. Once fired up, check timing too. Is the coil internal or external?

[TJ's Chevy]

Yep, I agree on the battery. Takes alot outta a battery to crank an engine.

[imjeff]

X3, especially since it started with a jump.

[whateverpratt]

Originally Posted by VonDog

X2 on the battery. Also, the new plug wires should be 8 mm at least. Make sure you have a Solid ground frame to motor. Once fired up, check timing too. Is the coil internal or external?

Coil is external

[VonDog]

Make sure all the wiring is clean and secure but I'd start with the battery!!!!! Let us know what you find.

[whateverpratt]

Originally Posted by VonDog

X2 on the battery. Also, the new plug wires should be 8 mm at least. Make sure you have a Solid ground frame to motor. Once fired up, check timing too. Is the coil internal or external?

The wires that came with it were 8mm, too.

Is it possible that my battery is too "dead" for HEI but good enough for the voltage requirements of a points system?

If I have enough time between work and school tomorrow, I'll get the battery load tested and report back. Thanks for the help.

[GVDobler]

I'm pretty sure they had a ballast for lowering the voltage after start, as to not burn up the points. All HEIs have to have the full 12 volts. Did you remove the ballast?

[GVDobler]

PS: if you run a hot lead direct from the battery to the HEI and it runs fine, then that is the problem. Don't leave the hot wire there after testing. Fix the wiring.

[geezer#99]

It's not the hei!
It's the starter or more specifically the solenoid on the starter.
Typical heat soak symptoms.
Check all your grounds and wire connectors first.

[whateverpratt]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

It's not the hei!
It's the starter or more specifically the solenoid on the starter.
Typical heat soak symptoms.
Check all your grounds and wire connectors first.

I'm having a hard time believing that it is a heat soak problem since I never experienced those symptoms before the swap.

[whateverpratt]

Originally Posted by GVDobler

PS: if you run a hot lead direct from the battery to the HEI and it runs fine, then that is the problem. Don't leave the hot wire there after testing. Fix the wiring.

I will try this.

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by whateverpratt

I'm having a hard time believing that it is a heat soak problem since I never experienced those symptoms before the swap.

Does it start when cold with no problem?

[fleetsidelarry]

Originally Posted by GVDobler

I'm pretty sure they had a ballast for lowering the voltage after start, as to not burn up the points. All HEIs have to have the full 12 volts. Did you remove the ballast?

true enough, but this (red hi-lite):

Originally Posted by whateverpratt

... My battery was around 12.5 (not running). With the key in the on position, the wire going to my coil read 12.4 (this wire is hooked to a terminal on my ignition that shows 12+ volts when the key is in the on position); however, when I had my wife crank the engine, the wire to the coil measured anywhere from 8-10 volts.

is just the opposite of what would happen with the original ballast wire

Originally Posted by whateverpratt

I will try this.

(referring to GVDobler's suggestion to try a test lead)

this is an easy test and worth doing but I'm guessing starter. Also, someone asked earlier but I didn't notice if you answered the question about resetting the timing

[whateverpratt]

Thanks for the help and suggestions. It was the battery. Apparently points require next to nothing voltage to function, and my battery was providing them enough power. HEI was a different story, but now I have a battery that doesn't drop to 9 volts under load, so it starts hot or cold.