New to forum, Hello and Starting build on my 67 chevy

[Wildcard]

Hello everyone I am new to the forum have been reading for a couple weeks but haven`t posted until I helped out on transmission help thead a bit ago.

I am a Transmission Tech by trade and Have owned a few 67-72 chevy or gmc trucks.

my first on was my first rig and was a 68 chevy pickup that I started building when I was 16 at my dad`s transmission shop when I started workin with him officialy. eventually ended up welding a blazer bed to the cab making it 14inchs shorter than a shortbox, front and rear rollpans, chopped 4inchs and had pumped 327 and Muncie 4spd had truck for 14yrs before I tore it down to remove the unicab set up just cracked itself apart, unfortunelty truck never went back together and got slowly parted out. put engine in my 28 ford coupe, chopped channeled and open wheeler that I still have to this day.

few years ago I traded my 67 GMC lifted 4x4 that was turquoise and white and was sharp truck traded it for my 89 chevy 4x4 and yes I regret that. Lol

I just picked up a complete 67 chevy longbox 2wd truck a couple weeks ago that runs and have been driving have normal rust in areas we know are common so no biggy there I can fix that. but front upper a arm bushings are junk and I got new ones and upper and lower balljoints to put in for the hell of it , after reading on here I learned and picked up a pair of TJ rear coil springs for the rear, (better than the heated ones in my first 68) and will cut 1 1/2 coils off front springs and build my own shock relocaters front and rear but will in near fututer have front drop spindles and springs and possible drop block in the rear if the Jeep spring don't go low enough.

Truck has a great running 72 350 and TH400 trans w/ a shift kit, just finished last night buffing out the paint and surprisingly shined it up can`t believe the difference from when I got it.

from all your guys knowledge. What is the best type or fuel tank to put in the Rear? I of course see the LMC and CPP ones but what kind of car would you recommend I can take a tank out of a start there?

Whats the best way to post pics here?

Thanks, Wildcard

[Twisted78SS]

Welcome!

If you have been lurking around a bit, you will see there are a bunch of us from the Northwest. Best of luck on your build and don't forget we all love progress pics... lol

[70LonghornCST]

Hello Wildcard,

Welcome to the forum!

As far as the best fuel tank to install under the bed, I know that many install Blazer tanks, but I'm sure those with depth of knowledge on this will chime in.

As far as the best way to post pictures follow these steps:

1.Click the "Go Advanced" button below the message field.

2. Click the paper clip icon in the menu above the message field.

3. Click the "Browse" button in the popup window as shown.

4. Click the "Upload" button, and choose the location of your picture. There is a size limit, so you may have to resize if needed. You can use Microsoft Paint if using a PC.

5. Click the "Close this Window" link at the top of the popup window.

6. Be sure to press Submit Reply at the bottom of the message field, below the Post Icons (emoticons).

And that's it!

-Richard

[Lokin4AReason]

welcome to the show ....

[Wildcard]

Thank You All for the welcome and the info on posting pic gonna give it a shot. Ill get some pic posted soon.

I took all the front suspension apart this evening and got new upper a arm cross shafts and upper ball joints, I see and expected I would need lower a arm cross shafts and bushings along with the lower balljoints. will get those coming tomorrow.

Problem I have is as I was taking the last a arm off the upper passenger side off the front stud that goes thru the frame started spinning and I had to cut it with a cutoff wheel behind the nut to get the arm off. any suggestion on best place to get one.

The cross shaft nuts apperantly have been loose for quite some time and I believe since the arm has been rattling around for awhile so that's what I believe loosened up that stud in thru the frame.

does anyone out there have a stock set of rear ubolt they would be interested in getting rid of? the rear ubolts on my truck are loose and will not tighted up, maybe I could heat them and my big Air Gun would tighted them up but doubt it. I have TH Jeep rear spring and gonna run those. I`m sure they will take the truck down to the heigth I want and don`t think I will need drop block and longer ubolts yet, I just want to get the rearend tightened backujp on the truck arms.

Let me know what you have and how much shipped to 99403, also if anyone has a couple upper a arm mounting studs also

Thanks, Wildcard

[PanelDeland]

Welcome. I can't help with the parts but for rear axle U bolts, just try your local truck or driveline shop. They probably have them in stock and they'll be better than trying to find decent originals. Most who rear end work just hack them off with a die grinder and replace.

[Wildcard]

gonna try to post a pic, see how it goes.

If it works this is what the 67 chevy looked like day I towed it to work

Wildcard

[Wildcard]

Here are are a couple more.

has a 350/ th400, front end is shot replacing parts. but overall pretty descent condition

Got different tires on truck now doesn`t have ones in pic they had really good tread but were weather checked on sidewalls drove it for 2 days and got a leak in LF side wall so I got a pair or good used 235/60/15 for front and 275/60/15 for the rear looks a lot better will post a pic of that and frontend progress soon. along with the TJ rear spring and gonna cut 1 1/2 coils off front springs

Wildcard

[Wildcard]

Couple more. interior is fair carpet still pretty good and someone had recovered the doorpanels , dashpad and visors with light gray/blue velvet
truck has been completely repainted before but not very good body work course that will change.

Wildcard

[Wildcard]

Hello, I got all the front suspension off the truck setting at work so I went in to Work a couple hours early this morning to work on my truck front suspension, ground off the rivet heads of the upper balljoint, and installed the new upper a arm cross shafts.

Good thing I read a lot about those before I tacked that job, cause that's how I learned it a good idea to take the new cross shafts and start the outter bushing threaded ends and bearly start a thread on each end and mark the shaft and end piece and count the number of rotations it takes for them to stop or bottom out on the bench and No they are not all exact, on upper shaft was 11 turns and other end was 8 so had to compensate the difference to make them both even amount of turns or the center shaft would lockup. happened on the on lower shaft also but got it all worked out for the upper then installed the new upper balljoints with the nuts on top.

I had one lower a arm that the end where the cross shaft end caps go on was bent in cause it hit something. this makes the center section of the cross shaft not fit in the middle of the a arm so my dad and I this evening bent it back straight and installed the lower cross shafts same way as the upper ones all together now, And like my first custom 68 I built I just took the angle grinder and cutoff wheel and cut the whole bump stop step assembly completely off the a arm.

My tierods ends are really good so leaving them alone, and purchased new Brake hoses. and front shocks.

I am copying the upper shock relocate bracket and making my own same with the rear when the Jeep TJ rear springs go in with new rear shocks.

Hopefully Friday the new upper a arm mounting stud will be here and I can get it all put together. I can put the whole Left side together now buy need stud for Right side.

I cut 1 1/2 coils off my front springs today also

Wildcard

Here are all the parts on the bench, Front brakes were pretty much New.