Paint or powder coat?

['65 chevy lover]

While the motor is still out of my truck, I'm going to go ahead and pull the front clip off and either paint or powder coat the inner fenders and core support. Should I think about paint or powder coat for the inner fenders and core support...Which is more durable, paint or powder coat? Plan to also paint the front part of the frame and fire wall, at least as much as I can get to. Any suggestions as to what paint I should think about for the frame and fire wall?

[wahl4m]

i had some mint inner fenders "powder coated " seems like about 1 year later they developed some rust in the usual places???? wondered if the coating sealed them up to tight ?? had another set painted/no problems ! that poeder coating -sure looks nice BUt ? any body have any clues ???

[DLW]

I'm going to have my inner fenders and core support powder coated for mine. I'm sure plenty of folks can offer up some paints to use as well. I will also be painting my frame and firewall, probably like a satin black for it all.

[DLW]

Originally Posted by wahl4m

i had some mint inner fenders "powder coated " seems like about 1 year later they developed some rust in the usual places???? wondered if the coating sealed them up to tight ?? had another set painted/no problems ! that poeder coating -sure looks nice BUt ? any body have any clues ???

Bad prep work maybe?

[markeb01]

Powder is really durable, but it must be applied to "all" surfaces and cured when the metal temperature (of the part) is up to speed (not oven temperature). My cherry original tailgate was almost ruined by rust that started under the powder paint (around the edges). I didn't see the damage until it had grown to a significant amount.

I would do the radiator support, but I'd be concerned about the inner fenders, especially in the up front/top areas where typical rust appears. The brackets underneath collect debris and water. Unless these are sealed up with something the powder coating heat won't ruin, they will break out in rust even faster than they did originally when protected by the oem paint.

[63burban]

Powder coating is cool for house furniture but nothing that will be used out in the elements.
I blast and POR15 frames, inner fenders, core supports, or anything that will be subjected to weather or road use. The underside of the inner fenders on my 56 Belair have been done for 12 years ( about 45k miles } and still no damage, just marks in the POR from stones.. The side of the inner fenders facing the engine compartment as well as the core support are painted with semi gloss equipment enamel and are easy to clean. I have been happy with the results and am painting my trucks in the same manor.

[nsb29]

power coating is a fast and is environmentally friendly and fast no dry time that's why manufacturing uses it a chip in pant only rust in the chip powder coating a chip will let the rust travel under the coating hold moisture and will lift off in sheets its only a pretty face por 15 or a good apoxsee primer thin top coat it with a good enamel or urethane rust oleum on bare metal is more durable than powder

[dougf]

As others have stated, prep with anything is the key. Rust under paint or powdercoat will spread. I plan on blasting / wire wheeling my inner fenders and applying POR15 fwiw

[cooperhw]

I'll cast my vote for paint. I like the fact that you can always touch up or re-paint an area later on if you need/want to for whatever reason.

[doobiebro]

Originally Posted by DLW

Bad prep work maybe?

Correct, prep work is the most important stage before applying powdercoat! I have some experience working at a shop on the weekends. Sand blasting the part will leave an etching on the material for better adhesion. Afterwards cleaning the part with a soapy water degreaser or acid solution to clean all oil markings and bake part 15 mins before appling powder.. Applying the powder coat can take about 5 mins but on the other hand prepping can take hrs. Here sum pics..

['65 chevy lover]

Thanks to all for the feedback. It's much appreciated!

[66LSx]

Make it durable forever...

Raptor speck bedliner is what mine will get.....

[Captainfab]

This \/ \/ \/

Originally Posted by doobiebro

Correct, prep work is the most important stage before applying powdercoat! I have some experience working at a shop on the weekends. Sand blasting the part will leave an etching on the material for better adhesion. Afterwards cleaning the part with a soapy water degreaser or acid solution to clean all oil markings and bake part 15 mins before appling powder.. Applying the powder coat can take about 5 mins but on the other hand prepping can take hrs. Here sum pics..

Although, if the truck is something that is going to be driven year round and in all weather conditions, I would not powder coat parts that will be subjected to the elements. Particularly the frame and running gear.

[Ratpin]

On the plus side of PC. The part is cured in 10 minutes and ready to go into service immediately after cool down. No dry time like with paint. I do still paint a lot of stuff though only because powder application can be difficult on some parts. I good solid earth connection is very important while powder coating.

[imjeff]

If I had the powder coat equipment I would powder coat, but since you have no control over the quality once you walk out the door, I'm a little leery. I use POR 15 like others have said. Eastwood has some good products as well. My utility trailer powder coat is coming off in sheets (big selling point), but my non-topcoated Chevelle undercarriage still looks great...POR 15.

Jeff

[Ratpin]

Powder, like paint all comes down to prep. I have been dealing with powder coaters for 15+ years and more recently started doing parts myself and even when the part came back not looking great, I have never dealt with a single delamination issue with powder. I can't say the same with POR15 rust coating in my experience. You can follow all the instructions to a T with the POR, but if you stir a little too much or not quite enough the results can be catastrophic, and I've found you still need to top coat it of you want an even sheen, especially with their chassis black finish. I wont use that again. I do really like the POR15 engine enamels though and will continue to use them on my builds.

[LT1 Burb]

I powder coated my core support and inners and put 20,000 miles on that truck and they still looked good as new.

[pimpston65]

i painted my parts cuz I'm cheap!!! also i wanted that factory look...

[Turtleman]

Paint you can touch up,, not always so easy to do with powder coats

['65 chevy lover]

Appreciate all the replys. Looks like powder coat isn't as durable as I thought it was. Plus as stated, it's alot easier to touch-up paint. I think I'm gona go with paint, just have to decide what paint. I'll look into the POR15 and, bedliner coatings before I make my decision. Thanks again for all the in-put.

[Turtleman]

Prep is always the key to a good finish.. I use a red oxide metal primer (Alkyd).. and the last 30+ years I've used a "Super Spec HP Urethane Alkyd Gloss Enamel (P22)" as a top coat.. I use it on undercarriages and currently I'm doing my control arms, springs ect. ect,, you know,, the whole front end disk brake swap

[Mtl-Marc]

Originally Posted by 63burban

Powder coating is cool for house furniture but nothing that will be used out in the elements.
...

There are powders out there that will stand the elements. Clear I use a lot.

CRYSTAL_CLEAR_SUPER_DURABLE_HIGH_GLOSS_CLEAR/

[Grandpa54]

I've powder coated alot of parts over the last 25 years and never had anything come off. For frames and under carriage parts its the only way to go. If you spill gas or brake fluid on it it dosent come off. Thats my story and im sticking to it!

[63burban]

Originally Posted by Grandpa54

I've powder coated alot of parts over the last 25 years and never had anything come off. For frames and under carriage parts its the only way to go. If you spill gas or brake fluid on it it dosent come off. Thats my story and im sticking to it!

Come to the Midwest where we have gravel roads and rough roads, salt residue on the roads and rain. If you drive your vehicle on a regular basis around here, powder coat does not cut it.