Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"

[Dave in Ozark]

Originally Posted by First c10

Thanks Brett. I have been practicing TIG welding. Its tough. But getting the hang of it.

I've enjoyed reading through this build. I can relate with the TIG- every time I sit down to do it I get kind of light headed. I have realized that I hold my breath... a lot.

Any updates?

[First c10]

Originally Posted by Dave in Ozark

I've enjoyed reading through this build. I can relate with the TIG- every time I sit down to do it I get kind of light headed. I have realized that I hold my breath... a lot.

Any updates?

Hey Dave. Thanks for the comments. I think I hold my breath also. That's funny.
I got a chance to spend a couple hours today. Just worked on the rotisserie Brackets for the cab. I used 1 of the 2-1/2" x 3" square tube brackets instead of the 2-1/2" x 2". That's what happens when your away from the shop for a little bit. So I need to hit up the metal shop.
Sorry didn't get any pictures But I will soon.
I am enjoying your guys updates, keeps me in the mood to get on my project as soon as football is over.

[ERASER5]

Originally Posted by Dave in Ozark

I've enjoyed reading through this build. I can relate with the TIG- every time I sit down to do it I get kind of light headed. I have realized that I hold my breath... a lot.

Any updates?

At least you are not sucking up Argon that way!

[DWilbur]

That is some nice tig welding. When are having classes so I can improve my skills. What is the black rod that goes from the back of the engine to the T-case.

[nsulacountry]

I don't think thats a rod... I believe it is a 3" electric exhaust cutout!

This continues to be epic.

CT

Edit: I now see the black rod on the passenger side from t case to engine area along the frame rail... No idea.

[First c10]

Hey guys. The TIG welding problem I have it the stop and starts. I can't get the weld to look uniform. I am sure I just need more practice. One thing with TIG welding is patience. Which I have little. While I am welding I keep saying to myself, "Slow down, take your time". Just about the time I get it looking good I will be done with the welding on the exhaust. Lol.
As for the black rod. On the newer model t-cases (the aluminum ones) np208-263 I think have a rod that attached to the long side of the t-case to one of the bell housing bolts. At least on the square bodies.

[DWilbur]

That's what I thought it was. my 84 had one.

[First c10]

Hey guys I was able to finish up on the exhaust yesterday well up to the muffler. I finished up the hangers and put all the gaskets on the headers and collectors. I don't want to do the tailpipe yet because I am not sure where I want it. I also had my son finish up the rear diff cover. I just need to straighten out the brake lines they look to high.

[DWilbur]

Looking good on the exhaust system. I love them diff covers.

[First c10]

Was able to get to the shop for a few hours this weekend. I was able to lower my gas tank filler tube on the fuel tank.

[First c10]

I also finished up the rotisserie. Now I just need to put the cab on it so I can replace the rocker and get it to the paint and body guy.

[First c10]

I have a question. After I finished my exhaust I noticed it was close to hard Fuel line. So I wrapped the exhaust with DEI Wrap and sleeved the fuel line with DEI sleeving. I will post another picture.

[First c10]

Do you think it will be ok? Or should I Lower the exhaust? Problem is I will have to add a small price to the down pipe from the collector. Currently it is a good inch clearance between the wrapped exhaust pipe and the sleeved fuel line.

[Nitis]

Sorry no help for you on the exhaust fuel line issue. But my guess is since you already hashed out a remedy and you have doubt might ought to go with your gut

Which tank did you go with? If I recall you opted for the square body tank. 25 31gal? More pics of the mount please!

Filler going into the side of the bed? I came across these
http://www.hotrodhardware.com/index....od/prd2266.htm

[First c10]

Originally Posted by Nitis

Sorry no help for you on the exhaust fuel line issue. But my guess is since you already hashed out a remedy and you have doubt might ought to go with your gut

Which tank did you go with? If I recall you opted for the square body tank. 25 31gal? More pics of the mount please!

Filler going into the side of the bed? I came across these
http://www.hotrodhardware.com/index....od/prd2266.htm

Hi I think the fuel line should be fine just thought I would ask if anyone seen a problem with it or if they had a previous issue.
I used the 31 gallon 87-91 FI tank and Swapped in a hi pressure Walbro pump.
I will get you a picture of the mount. But I used the cross member from the stock '91 suburban frame I bought. It has the correct curvature for the tank at the front. ( I even have the stock tank skid plate) I used the stock cross member at the rear and drilled 2 holes in it for the stock tank straps.
For a gas door I picked up one from a Sonoma blazer and plan to install it. But what you found would work also. I just got mine and the metal piping for 25$

I found the mock up picture of the crossmember from the '91.

[swamp rat]

If it helps my truck has the fuel line run inside the frame rail right where the stock one was and my exhaust pipe is about 3" from it where its passing between the rail and the T case. even before the rear tank with the stock line in the same place i had exhaust pipe running in the same place for over 20 years. So not just crossing over it but beside it for a couple/three ft.

I think it should be fine heat wise with the wrap, my only concern might be if it vibrates too much or how much it moves when revving the engine.

[Nitis]

Any fitment issues running that tank you forsee with mounting a hitch or maybe even an ECE hidden hitch?

[First c10]

Originally Posted by Nitis

Any fitment issues running that tank you forsee with mounting a hitch or maybe even an ECE hidden hitch?

Sorry Nitis I forgot to get you a picture of the back crossmember. I will try this week.

I worked on the truck this weekend, well the cab I mean. Got the cab on the rotisserie. It worked pretty well. I started working on the rocker. I found that the previous owner had some work done to the cab. Well of course it was crappy work. So here I go started repairing the floor section and the kick panel area. I removed the rocker panel and found things not to what I feel they should be so here I go. Going to remove both rockers and probably replace both cab corners.
I took a wire wheel to the cab corner and after I went though 3/8" of Bondo I figured going to have to replace the cab corners. I took pictures but phone is dead. I will try and upload tomorrow.

[First c10]

Here a few pictures of the work we started this past weekend.

[First c10]

This picture is from the driver side cab corner. You can see the replacement cab piece.Not sure about it but the outside has a bunch of bondo. Too be continued!!

[First c10]

Ok here are a few more.
check out the concave on the cab corner it had 3/8" of bondo on it...

[7dee2]

Looking good, I bet the rotisserie is helping a lot.

[First c10]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Looking good, I bet the rotisserie is helping a lot.

Yes it is. Only thing is I am not sure if I can cut out the cab corner while on the rotisserie. What do you think? Should I support the cab on a cart, off the rotisserie? I don't what any sagging problems.

[7dee2]

IMO you can get away with it if all the rest of the structure is there and your just replacing the outer sheet metal. I'd check the door gap prior to cutting it out and after you get the new tacked in place prior to final.

[msgross]

Originally Posted by First c10

Yes it is. Only thing is I am not sure if I can cut out the cab corner while on the rotisserie. What do you think? Should I support the cab on a cart, off the rotisserie? I don't what any sagging problems.

If the rest of the floor is in place then you should be able to do cab corners while it sits on the frame (or suitable replacement). People do that all of the time.