SM465 shift Knob

[tucsonjwt]

I tried to unscrew the shift knob on my SM465 manual trans shifter in my 83 C20 and the knob won't come off, and now it has a long crack in it. There is a nut which appears to be pressed into the knob, which then threads onto the end of the shifter. 2 questions:
1) How should the knob be removed - turned counterclockwise like a normal knob, or unscrewed by the nut partially visible on the bottom of the knob.
2) Where can I get a stock knob?
I am getting ready to replace the carpet, which is why I am messing with this at all. Thanks

[Big Port Jimmy 6]

That nut should be a jam nut loosen it and the Knob should screw off.

[tucsonjwt]

Thanks. I got the knob off - two long cracks on the underside. Does anybody know where I can get a stock black replacement knob, with 1-4 and R markings?

[Keith Seymore]

Is it the rubber knob or a hard plastic knob?

I bought a transfer case knob and used it to replace the one on my manual transmission. You might be able to try something similar....

K

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

I wasn't going to do anything with the shift ball....it cleaned up pretty well and was probably fine for a daily driver. But - I had a $40 credit with ClassicParts that I needed to use so I thought I would see what I could do here.

Now, you might suspect that the shift ball for this "odd ball" was probably not available, and you'd be right. However, if you were me, you'd figure that the manual transfer case shift ball was probably identical and would work in this application. So, I ordered one up:





Pretty much exactly the same! After about 30 seconds of work, you can pop the indicator out of the old knob and slip it into the new knob and VIOLA!: new shift ball!

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

Ok - so here's the point where you find out they are not "exactly" the same....apparently the transfer case shift lever is "coarse" thread and the transmission shift lever is "fine" thread Nothing that a couple minutes with a 7/16 fine thread tap couldn't fix:



And here we are, back in business:



Total time investment: about 15 minutes; dollar investment of about $3.00 (for shipping).

K

[tucsonjwt]

My shift pattern on the SM465 is different - 1 -2-3-4 and R is right and down.
My knob is still intact, but has two long cracks on the bottom. Classic parts has the correct shift pattern, but a different design - mine is engraved solid one piece plastic.
http://www.classicparts.com/1988-91-...tinfo/29-4652/
I am not sure that the threads will be the same on this one.
For $50+ with shipping I might just live with the one I have until I can find the correct knob.

[msgross]

can you epoxy the old one?

[Stitch]

Originally Posted by tucsonjwt

My shift pattern on the SM465 is different - 1 -2-3-4 and R is right and down.
My knob is still intact, but has two long cracks on the bottom. Classic parts has the correct shift pattern, but a different design - mine is engraved solid one piece plastic.
http://www.classicparts.com/1988-91-...tinfo/29-4652/
I am not sure that the threads will be the same on this one.
For $50+ with shipping I might just live with the one I have until I can find the correct knob.

that looks like the correct shift knob for a sm465...you have granny low and then what most people would consider 2nd is actually 1st...

[tucsonjwt]

Yes. I have old style SM465 granny low. The knob is completely round, with no "neck" below it as in the one Keith used or as in the Classic Parts knob. I think I need to stick with a completely round knob because I have an Eaton locker red button set up for the gear vendor which is attached to the shifter just below the knob. This allows the driver to engage/disengage the gear vendor with the shifting hand without removing your hand from the shifter. I have never had much success with epoxy. I actually have 3 cracks in the knob - one from the bottom to the top, one from the bottom half way up, and an third crack radiating from the second crack sideways. My camera can't do close ups, but this is what I have:

[83GMCK2500]

Originally Posted by tucsonjwt

Yes. I have old style SM465 granny low. The knob is completely round, with no "neck" below it as in the one Keith used or as in the Classic Parts knob. I think I need to stick with a completely round knob because I have an Eaton locker red button set up for the gear vendor which is attached to the shifter just below the knob. This allows the driver to engage/disengage the gear vendor with the shifting hand without removing your hand from the shifter. I have never had much success with epoxy. I actually have 3 cracks in the knob - one from the bottom to the top, one from the bottom half way up, and an third crack radiating from the second crack sideways. My camera can't do close ups, but this is what I have:

I have that one as well, and I need to replace it too. Haven't found a round one yet either.

[DPowers]

swap meet is where i would look.

[jon604]

what shifter is that I haven't been able to find and aftermarket shifter for an sm465

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Aftermarket shift knob by Smith and Wesson. And yes, I carry 6 live rounds of 44mag in it. Lol!

[Bigstevex4]

Well i got the one off my 83 465 cant stand tiny knobs. when i read this i thought ide hit the mother load! But its Got a bunch small cracks reads L123R.
Message me you can have it. Post starter down.

[tucsonjwt]

One consideration in the desert is metal knobs are a bad idea - the high temperatures in the summer mean it is not possible to grip a metal knob. My neighbor had a Dodge 4x4 with a metal aftermarket knob and I had to put a towel over the knob before I could shift it, and it was still too hot.

I have seen the very old style knobs in the junkyards which are not cracked but they are discolored/speckled from age, and the white lettering on the knob is all but gone.

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Originally Posted by tucsonjwt

One consideration in the desert is metal knobs are a bad idea - the high temperatures in the summer mean it is not possible to grip a metal knob. My neighbor had a Dodge 4x4 with a metal aftermarket knob and I had to put a towel over the knob before I could shift it, and it was still too hot.

I have seen the very old style knobs in the junkyards which are not cracked but they are discolored/speckled from age, and the white lettering on the knob is all but gone.

Luckily for me, I don't live in the desert.

[franken]

Heh, I had a chrome knob on a car (bought it that way) and it was too ho to touch.
There are aftermarket companies that have or will make a knob/ball with whatever pattern and thread. Google is your friend.
https://www.google.com/search?q=hall...tom+shift+knob
It might be more difficult for early squares and prior w/ bakelite knobs but later should work out.

[Jeepwm69]

Originally Posted by tucsonjwt

Yes. I have old style SM465 granny low. The knob is completely round, with no "neck" below it as in the one Keith used or as in the Classic Parts knob. I think I need to stick with a completely round knob because I have an Eaton locker red button set up for the gear vendor which is attached to the shifter just below the knob. This allows the driver to engage/disengage the gear vendor with the shifting hand without removing your hand from the shifter. I have never had much success with epoxy. I actually have 3 cracks in the knob - one from the bottom to the top, one from the bottom half way up, and an third crack radiating from the second crack sideways. My camera can't do close ups, but this is what I have:

The top of mine came off, but there's still the bottom part of the ball on the shifter. It's like the covering came off leaving the inner core.

Anyhow, if yall find a correct replacement let me know. I'd like to have one too.

[tucsonjwt]

I got the "long neck" textured vinyl style one like Keith shows but with the correct SM465 shift pattern from a forum member on the parts for sale section of this forum. I have seen them on Ebay also. The original bakelite style like I have is not available, except maybe from the custom sources cited above. I have not installed the new one yet because the old one is still in one piece - I like it a lot better than the new style - fits my hand better - sits right in the palm of the hand and I can wrap my fingers around it and I can still operate my Eaton locker button without removing my hand from the shifter.

[dfrank]

Check your local chevy dealer's parts department. I have gotten many parts for my 86 k10 recently from my local chevy dealer. Heck they even got me a NOS tailgate for my truck for a GREAT price a few months ago. Turns out it was a stepside gate and I needed a fleetside, but I still took it to have it In case.