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Old 05-05-2015, 11:09 AM   #1
mr48chev
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Toppenish, WA
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Re: 77`Camaro alignment / caster ???

Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Let me clarify what I am saying.

If this angle is set up properly you can align it just as if it's still on the Camaro.

Brian
WORDS TO LIVE BY ON ANY SUBFRAME JOB.

That is where all too many guys make a huge mistake, They try to dial in extra caster or their own specs by dinking with the angle that the subframe attaches to the original frame away from what it would be.

I've been involved in several including two of my own and this is what works best.

Set the truck up with the frame exactly level at the static ride height you want to end up with (do not worry about rake or stance at this time) Rhe frame rails have to be absolutely level.

With the subframe blocked up or on a jack at it's stock ride height from the floor (no tires) slide it up to the frame you are going to graft it to with the subframe being level as it would be on the stock vehicle.

Then you fit and graft it together and as he said above you should end up with a truck that drives exactly like the donor rig did to begin with.

Changing the angle of the control arm shafts from stock by angling the subframe ends up giving you a frame that is bent at the joint with the stock frame for any and all practical purposes. This is also where you ended up with a cobbled up truck that body panels won't line up on and the drive train won't line up without issues.

Back to the original subject:
No matter who does the alignment it is still Caster/camber/toe in. It doesn't matter if you use the Snap On Bubble gauge out of the bottom of my tool box or some $100,000.00 computerized alignment rack that gives a three page print out.
The GM front ends with shims are one of and probably the easiest front ends to figure out and align that there are around. It's pretty positive results, take a shim out or put one in or move one from front to back and the results are instant and after you did a couple hundred on the same model quite predictable. A whole lot easier than loosening the bolts that hold the strut to the spindle, moving the strut in or out and hoping you get the bolts tight before the blasted thing moves on you like you have to do on almost every rig with struts or as I have discovered lately with the Jag XJ suspension I have basically taking the ball joint out to move shims to adjust the caster.
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