Jeep Cherokee door check straps. Are these right?

[Grizz1963]

I have found a pair for sale in the UK.

£15.00 each, or $23.00 each, posted.

However, not being that clever, I have no idea if these are the correct plug and play items needed for my '66 C10 doors.

Anyone in the know?

https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2...de8Td8HMqDU&e=


And the other side.


https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2...0a3Ooo1FFdc&e=


Any advice, or even pics of the units you may have fitted, appreciated.

Thanks as always for the help and advice.

Rian

[Paul Y]

Rian,

I purchased a pair of fronts for Woody, not fitted yet but they look pretty similar with the exception of the detents. These are also from eBay.

P.

[doobiebro]

here you go http://www.persh.org/pickup/DoorChecks.htm

[jonzcustomshop]

Originally Posted by doobiebro

here you go http://www.persh.org/pickup/DoorChecks.htm

so your ebay listing are for the rear door checks- check out that persh.org article to see if they will work for you ....

[Grizz1963]

Forgot to ask, I did know before but forgot and searching out old threads is not that easy now.

Which opens further........????

Fronts or rears ??

I know one set opens doors wider.

[doobiebro]

Grizz at the end of the article is states "The Jeep rear-door check is estimated to be about an inch longer than the Jeep front-door unit." Hope that helps..

[jonzcustomshop]

here you go:

Here are the Cherokee rear door checks installed courtesy of Larry Wilson (FleetsideLarry on chevytalk). These only have one detent and that's when the door is completely open. The width of the opening is about 42 inches, a little wider than stock, and, .....



as seen here, come dangerously close to crashing into the cowl and creating a much-dreaded "smiley face".



Larry placed a stock stop and a rear-door Jeep check side by side for comparison. The rear-door check is about 3/8" longer than the stock on. Larry shortened the Jeep rear-door unit by 3/8" and got an opening width of 34-3/4" (goes to about 35-1/2" with pressure on the door) and gives him about 1/4" clearance between the door edge and the cowl with some pressure applied.

The Jeep rear-door check is estimated to be about an inch longer than the Jeep

[61K10]

Grizz--I used the rear ones on my 61 and cut about 1/4 in off (basically just the org hole) and drilled a new hole. the door was a little too close for me at the stock length. the ones you posted one looks like the rear and one looks like a front?

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by Grizz1963

I have found a pair for sale in the UK.
£15.00 each, or $23.00 each, posted.
However, not being that clever, I have no idea if these are the correct plug and play items needed for my '66 C10 doors.
Anyone in the know?
https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2...de8Td8HMqDU&e=
And the other side.
https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2...0a3Ooo1FFdc&e=

Any advice, or even pics of the units you may have fitted, appreciated.
Thanks as always for the help and advice.
Rian

Grizz,
I installed the Cherokee front door checks in my 1965 C10. I like the 2 detents. The Cherokee rear door checks have only one detent and are a little longer than the original C10 checks. They can be shortened and a new pin hole drilled, but it still has only 1 detent, so really not any advantage over the repops. Here are pics of mine. I still have the PS door skin off, so it was a perfect time to get a good pic. I sent you a PM.

[Grizz1963]

Originally Posted by Lugnutz65

Grizz,
I installed the Cherokee front door checks in my 1965 C10. I like the 2 detents. The Cherokee rear door checks have only one detent and are a little longer than the original C10 checks. They can be shortened and a new pin hole drilled, but it still has only 1 detent, so really not any advantage over the repops. Here are pics of mine. I still have the PS door skin off, so it was a perfect time to get a good pic. I sent you a PM.

Thanks for all the replies guys !!

Jay, thanks for getting the pics up.

I think the shorter they are, relative to the originals, the less the chance a passenger will accidentally open the door too wide, and of course that goes for me too..... I would hate to crease a door myself, due to negligence or wind.

The double detention is probably the way to go.

Mate Martin also made a good suggestion, making the passenger side short and the drivers side longer, but unless you are loading a huge box in the front, the "extra" opening probably is not needed, so best avoided, as I really do not want to repaint once done.

[61K10]

the rear ones will work without modding them. (did not hit the finder but was close) I modified mine for a little more clearance. the back ones are cheaper also.

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by 61K10

the rear ones will work without modding them. (did not hit the finder but was close) I modified mine for a little more clearance. the back ones are cheaper also.

Where I pull parts, the price is the same. I pulled only passenger side checks since they get less use than the DS.
The rear checks work fine, I agree. But they only have one detent.

[Grizz1963]

Originally Posted by Lugnutz65

Where I pull parts, the price is the same. I pulled only passenger side checks since they get less use than the DS.
The rear checks work fine, I agree. But they only have one detent.

Clever thinking.

I have a friend who lives in Germany, he breaks loads of UK spec RHD Mercedes Benz W123's as the passenger side in Germany, is Drivers side over here, so the unused UK side is their worn "Drivers side" and often just the drivers mirror and seat pays for the whole car he fetched from the UK.

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by 61K10

the rear ones will work without modding them. (did not hit the finder but was close) I modified mine for a little more clearance. the back ones are cheaper also.

Credit goes to Van Pershing for listing the Jeep Cherokee door check upgrade on his website. Van Pershing's website LINK HERE.

I got to thinking about ways to make the front door check open the door a little wider. I LIKE the 2 detents that are on the front door check. I came up with this modification tonight. Just make sure the rubber piece you use is in good shape. Here goes.

If you find Jeep Cherokee front door checks with the rubber stop, then this mod will take all of 20 minutes and allow the door to open at least 3" more. If you cut the rubber piece a little thinner, you could probably get the door open to 33". I have the "no rubber" metal version in my truck and I'm satisfied, but this mod is so easy that it's be silly to skip it.

[Lugnutz65]

More pics.

[Lugnutz65]

Last few pics.

[Grizz1963]

Thank you for posting up so clearly Jay.

I do not have the skills to do all that clever writing on photos, or else I would do in some of my builds and photos.

I do hope this goes into Woogeroo's threads of helpfulness.

[ConradBSomething]

Anybody know of a reasonably priced source for these? They seem WAY overpriced everywhere. Including feeBay.

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by ConradBSomething

Anybody know of a reasonably priced source for these? They seem WAY overpriced everywhere. Including feeBay.

I got mine for a few bucks each at the local pick and pull salvage yard. I had about 8 vehicles to choose from so I bought the PS checks since they see less use during the life of a vehicle. Several of the DS checks were either broken or clearly worn out.

[ConradBSomething]

Good thinking man. That would've never crossed my mind!

Guess I'll try to hit up some picknpulls around here.

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by ConradBSomething

Good thinking man. That would've never crossed my mind!

Guess I'll try to hit up some picknpulls around here.

The checks with the rubber stops are from the newer Cherokees, so start with 2001 and work your way down to the earlier years. The Grand Cherokee checks won't work.

[ConradBSomething]

Thanks for the heads up.

[Pappyx3!]

subscribe to this one, thanks for sharing

[Grizz1963]

Been a bit busy getting ready for my job change the last few weeks, finish the current job on Friday, new job Tuesday.

In the industry I am in, it is very academically driven, and all new knowledge needs to be learned and tests/exams have a non negotiable 85% pass rate.

So just when I thought I would spend some time on the truck while on holiday before leaving my current job, the training files etc got here........ Need I say more?

Anyway, those that know the truck will recall that I need to replace my door check straps as the passenger door is very knackered after at least two previous contacts with the front fender edge.
I already had the repair panels for the speaker holes in both doors, and the bad crease on the outside of the PS door but still needed to buy some Jeep Cherokee door check straps.

In stepped a hero from South Carolina and offered me his spare set, including the rubber grommets already prepped and ready to fit, along with some door pins as well.

Nicola and I went away for 5 days to the UK's Jurassic Coast to search for fossils and just spend some time together as the rest of this year will be rough from a job point of view, and of course I am off to the USA in October on a road trip with mate Martin.



Many roads signed like this, no mobile or internet, no Starbucks or McDonalds. Refreshing.




Our fossil finds. 170million years old.




So today I went to the Post Office to collect a parcel........

Came home, opened it and found these in it.




Thank you very much friend, these will be saving me a lot of pain in future.

On Saturday I am off to go look at a passenger door off a '64 as well, which has no speaker hole, and seems to be crease free, though not perfect with a bit of ruse, and dents on the bottom edge, at £200.00, the price the seller is asking is more than I would like to pay, but if you do the maths and include all the welding and potential warping on my door, it kind of makes sense to buy this door.



Seems Martin may have a complete cab for his truck as well, again not cheap, but less pain than patching his rusted cab, which is recoverable, but tipped in favour of the replacement unit.

[disasterbus]

Originally Posted by Grizz1963

On Saturday I am off to go look at a passenger door off a '64 as well, which has no speaker hole, and seems to be crease free, though not perfect with a bit of ruse, and dents on the bottom edge, at £200.00, the price the seller is asking is more than I would like to pay, but if you do the maths and include all the welding and potential warping on my door, it kind of makes sense to buy this door.



Seems Martin may have a complete cab for his truck as well, again not cheap, but less pain than patching his rusted cab, which is recoverable, but tipped in favour of the replacement unit.

I know you and Martin are both more than capable of the necessary bodywork repairs but buying rot free panels (especially a whole cab for Martin) will save you both a lot of work, and besides, how often do you get the chance to find someone breaking a C10 over here? It makes sense............