Bagged. cupped arms alternative?

[Wizit247]

Im building a 60 gmc that will lay frame. build thread here:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=674557

Ive been working on my gmc frame a bit and have gotten to the point of cupping the lower arms for the bags.

My question, or rather idea, is this. could you rebuild the upper bag mount on the crossmember rather than cupping the lower arms?

Heres a Pic to visualize. red represent cut and new upper bag plate. obviously it would need to be plated back in and gusseted substantially to maintain strength of the upper arm mount. blue represents bag.



I know it kinda seems like im looking for a solution where one already exists but i like doing things differently and I have seen guys say that their cupped arms hang too low and often drag. Also the pb dropmember is setup similar to what im thinking.

Pic of pb dropmember for reference.

[LVPhotos]

According to your picture a cup would not be an issue. Here is a shot of my '62 with Porterbuilt arms.

[Wizit247]

Originally Posted by LVPhotos

According to your picture a cup would not be an issue. Here is a shot of my '62 with Porterbuilt arms.

That pic is not of my truck. Just a random one from google. I dont think cup clearance would be an issue on mine either. just looking at other options.
there seems to be a lot of "this is how everyone does it so its the best way" with the building of these trucks. i just like to try new things.

[LVPhotos]

Easy enough to just buy arms. All the geometry is done. You have to make clearance for bag. Usually flat plate on top, cup bottom. You need a bag 2600 is norm, get a pipe big enough to fit over it and cut to fit upper or lower parts.
check out mini trucks for more cut and tuck

[Wizit247]

Originally Posted by LVPhotos

Easy enough to just buy arms. All the geometry is done. You have to make clearance for bag. Usually flat plate on top, cup bottom. You need a bag 2600 is norm, get a pipe big enough to fit over it and cut to fit upper or lower parts.
check out mini trucks for more cut and tuck

My second pic in first post was intended to be off a pb dropmember. thank you for posting a pic of your since i screwed that up. lol

Im quite aware of what is needed and how to go about cupping the arms. In my build thread you would see that i have slam specialties ss-7 bags.

I greatly prefer to build parts rather than buying. the challenge of the build is more exciting for me than bolting up some stuff. Thats why i was looking at rebuilding the upper mount rather than cupping the lowers. If its a dumb idea then its a dumb idea. I was just trying to step out of the norm a bit.

[theastronaut]

I notched my upper mounts. Still need to plate/brace them but it adds a lot of clearance.








You can see how tall the bag is with Porterbuilt arms and the upper mounts raised. Frame is 4" off the ground under the cab in this pic.

[lolife99]

I think the better answer is to move the crossmember up and leave the upper hat area and the a-arms alone.
All you are doing is making room for the bag.
The real issue is the a-arms are on the ground.
Move the crossmember up.
Frame Z, sectioned crossmember, or aftermarket crossmember.
This will also fix the extreme negative camber when air'd out,...
Just my opinion.

[Wizit247]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I think the better answer is to move the crossmember up and leave the upper hat area and the a-arms alone.
All you are doing is making room for the bag.
The real issue is the a-arms are on the ground.
Move the crossmember up.
Frame Z, sectioned crossmember, or aftermarket crossmember.
This will also fix the extreme negative camber when air'd out,...
Just my opinion.

My crossmember is sectioned. there arms are 1/2" off the ground when laying frame.

Im just looking at basically "cupping" the upper mount rather then the lower arm.

[Wizit247]

heres a pic of my truck for reference.

[tinydb84]

Ive seen uppers cupped (like theastronaut) and lowers. I cupped my lowers because it seemed like the more common (and easier) way of doing it.