help with removing roof skin on my 64 please

[SnS C10]

Hey everyone I have some rust holes that I need to tend to. My cab overall is not in too bad of shape just some eraser size holes in multiple spots. Question is, is there a write up of someone removing the roof skin? I'm guessing just drill out the spot welds, do the repair and weld the roof back in then reseal the gutter? I've looked around but can't find much. Was hoping someone who has done this before can help me out. Thanks

[cooperhw]

Sorry I can't help you on how much welding and grinding it will take to re-skin the roof. I was facing this and the back of the cab on my 68, so I just clipped off the roof and the cab back off another donor that was rusty down below. Bought it for $100 with a good windshield in place. Clipped both off in one day and tack welded in place. Second day finish welded entire clip. Pretty simple to do actually, just take your time.
Not saying this is "the correct fix for you, but you might open up that can of worms and find more rust getting ready to pop through".
I have a build in the 68-72 trucks called "Meet Homer" if you care to look at this other option?

[LT1 Burb]

Just drill the 125 spot welds out, do the work and weld them all up.

[SnS C10]

wow thanks lt1 burb! that looks like a great job you did. Did you use a regular twist drill or a spot weld drill to do the job?

[LT1 Burb]

One of the only things I buy from harbor freight is there spot weld cutters, they are cheap at 5 bucks but they do a great job. You just have to predrill a slight pilot divot. It takes practice cause you don't want to go through the bottom panel.
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[patrickk1]

When I tried to do mine, Even after I got 1 whole side of my spot welds drilled out, the skin didn't want to separate off the top. I am guessing because it sat so long with nothing in the drip rail that the other part of the skin rusted to the roof slightly. Prying on it just wrecks up the drip rail edge.

[LT1 Burb]

You have to go very slowly , sharpen a putty knife and use it as a chisel and make sure the spot welds are popped completely as you go.

[SnS C10]

Ok Thanks for the advice guys

[RKS0069]

I plan to do this as well. Any pointers on welding it back together? LT1 Burb, What happened to the paint when you welded her back up?

[LT1 Burb]

You will burn the paint under the drip rail, on top its no big deal because you can hide it with seam sealer.

[patrickk1]

When I got my truck, my drip rails were very clean and rust free (there was no seam sealer in them). It was still a little difficult sometimes to determine where a spot weld was. What I found was it is very easy to see the spot welds on the underside of the driprail to confirm I was about to drill out a spotweld. I used the spot weld cutters from HF too. They work well.

[slorio]

Folks:
That roof panel looks like the perfect application for using panel bond adhesive rather than trying to re-weld those 125 spot welds. Has anyone gone the panel bond route? Seems like you could panel bond, then seam seal the drip rail with out anyone knowing the difference?
regards,
Steve
New Orleans

PS I used two part urethane seam seal on mine that was self leveling. I found that product was terrific for a nice smooth rain gutter.

[LT1 Burb]

I just think of the roof flying off at 65 mph.